It appears that the trucks that last saw OTA updates back around September/October are just now getting targeted for catch-up OTA updates.
The 4 120V outlets in the bed are rated at 20A each (but not all 4 at once).I was doing some cabinet work for a friend and was all excited to show off the truck's capabilities with the saw on my tailgate work surface! Alas, I had to tuck tail and put the saw on the ground near an outlet instead. The shame!
Now I'll have to find different tools and equipment and test them to see if there is anything to what you mentioned. It's a simple Skillsaw brand low-end 10" table saw. I use it on a 15amp garage circuit but know it momentarily dims the lights when I hit the power switch. Maybe it surges over 20amps at startup?
You will want to take it to the dealer and demonstrate the issue. It should be a warranty fix. DCACA module software update.
I did similar with the same Wetguard Connectors for our Lance travel trailer:I made up a weather proof umbilical between my PowerBoost and Airstream trailer. Works fine in all weather. Airstream is always powered when hooked to the PowerBoost.
Three umbilical connections from PowerBoost to Airstream.
No, not my model Airstream. It came with 50 amp on the left rear side. I installed a 30 amp plug at the hitch and ran it back to a transfer switch near the 50 amp inlet. So now when I pull into a camp site with shore power I leave the PPoB running then hook up the 50 amp. The transfer switch automatically goes over to the 50 amp connection taking PPoB off line.
I did this during hurricane Ian, it ran overnight through the worst of it. That’s a standard Ford tonneau with the spring loaded latches in the back to keep it down tight. I put two pieces of foam on either side of the big single 30A cord, and carefully smushed the tailgate shut making sure that the foam was being pinched not the cord. And like he just said, do a drip loop once you are inside, just make sure the tonneau doesn’t collect water and funnel it down the cord.
That is a genius setup, perfect use of the existing rounded hole in the frame. One thing that you might want to fix is the way the twist lock plug puts a pressure point on the top of the gasket, which is really the worst spot possible. I had the exact same grip things on my cord and I used a sharp box cutter to flatten out the surface. I took a screenshot of your PPO box picture and drew a line where I cut mine.I made up a weather proof umbilical between my PowerBoost and Airstream trailer. Works fine in all weather. Airstream is always powered when hooked to the PowerBoost.
Three umbilical connections from PowerBoost to Airstream.
Thanks. Actually I think it is the spring load cap putting pressure on the plug. Don't see why the cleat cannot be filed down. However it takes a fair amount of twisting force to lock the plug down into the socket. Still looking for a nice after market kit to solve this problem of not having an external connector.That is a genius setup, perfect use of the existing rounded hole in the frame. One thing that you might want to fix is the way the twist lock plug puts a pressure point on the top of the gasket, which is really the worst spot possible. I had the exact same grip things on my cord and I used a sharp box cutter to flatten out the surface. I took a screenshot of your PPO box picture and drew a line where I cut mine.
Silly question but did you turn on generator mode? If not you are limited to 400W.I was doing some cabinet work for a friend and was all excited to show off the truck's capabilities with the saw on my tailgate work surface! Alas, I had to tuck tail and put the saw on the ground near an outlet instead. The shame!
Now I'll have to find different tools and equipment and test them to see if there is anything to what you mentioned. It's a simple Skillsaw brand low-end 10" table saw. I use it on a 15amp garage circuit but know it momentarily dims the lights when I hit the power switch. Maybe it surges over 20amps at startup?
Fantastic and clean work sir! Love the cable protector sleeve. I'm interested to see how you ran the cable on the trailer as well. I'm looking at an InTech Terra travel trailer, but the solutions will be similar to your Airstream. For instance, did you make sure there is enough slack for turning but not drag the ground? Are you plugging in to the shore power inlet on the road side or did you run it inside and install a Shore/PB power switch etc.?
I detailed the modifications to the Airstream here. Thousands of miles with the trailer always powered by PPoB. No problems.
Yes. It was in generator mode. A few others commented about the reason which makes sense. The initial draw can be far greater than the constant operating amps. It's a digital circuit so when it spikes at startup, the system see's it and shuts down the circuit, unlike a physical CB that would have more 'forgiveness' and deal with the added load/heat for that split second.
Yes to the allowing for turns question, and yes to the switch idea "Progressive Dynamics PD52V Transfer Switch". Nicely done.
Hope that works. Small single phase AC motors like your saw do have in-rush or locked rotor currents. Going to the 30A 120V source will help for sure.
