Pro Power Onboard for travel trailer in weather

[turbopilot]

Yes to the allowing for turns question, and yes to the switch idea "Progressive Dynamics PD52V Transfer Switch". Nicely done.

Yes, test as always. Highly recommend separate 30 amp input to a 50 amp trailer protected by a transfer switch. Transfer switch to 30 amp input takes about 45 seconds. Transfer back to 50 amp input happens instantly with Progress Dynamics Switch.

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[Samson16]

Yes, test as always. Highly recommend separate 30 amp input to a 50 amp trailer protected by a transfer switch. Transfer switch to 30 amp input takes about 45 seconds. Transfer back to 50 amp input happens instantly with Progress Dynamics Switch.

The InTech trailer I'm interested in has 30A service using a Progressive Dynamics PD4000 power control center. I was just planning on running a cable from the PPoB to the shore power input receptacle on the roadside when hookups aren't available. When underway the Norcold 10 cu.ft. DC main fridge and the 30liter DC outdoor kitchen fridge can run off the LiFePO4 batteries to keep things cool. The two Maxx Air fans can provide airflow if needed. I hadn't considered providing full 30A service to the trailer while towing it somewhere.

 

[UGADawg96]

I detailed the modifications to the Airstream here. Thousands of miles with the trailer always powered by PPoB. No problems.

Yes to the allowing for turns question, and yes to the switch idea "Progressive Dynamics PD52V Transfer Switch". Nicely done.

Yes, test as always. Highly recommend separate 30 amp input to a 50 amp trailer protected by a transfer switch. Transfer switch to 30 amp input takes about 45 seconds. Transfer back to 50 amp input happens instantly with Progress Dynamics Switch.

If our TT is 30amp, then would that 50amp transfer switch be fine or should we get a 30amp version or does it matter ?

 

[Davexxxx]

"The two Maxx Air fans can provide airflow if needed. "

JMO but I wouldn't leave the fans open while under way. Gonna stress the mechanisms pretty hard doing that.

"I hadn't considered providing full 30A service to the trailer while towing it somewhere."

Yeah, I haven't caught onto to the why of this either. Especially if you had the chance to assure the batts were charged up first and the fridges were cooled down, before leaving.

 

[Henfield]

Here's another approach. RVs have plug on the exterior that connect to the campsite power outlet.

Install one of those on the inner fender of the bed (like a gooseneck trailer connector), with a lead to a protected location so you can plug in your RV.

RV power connections

 

[SaSurvival]

For those of you that use your PPO to power a travel trailer, how do you use the onboard generator during inclement weather? Rain, snow etc.

I've seen one mod where the user drilled a hole in their bed, passed a cable through, and attached their own plugs/outlets so that the plug to the generator was under a tonneau cover with the tailgate closed and the outlet was under the bed of the truck out of the elements. I'd prefer not to do this but definitely see the advantage, especially if the outlet under the truck can be protected from rain, snow, and ice thrown up by the tires when not in use.

This is what I do.

 

[ptricky]

I took a similar approach as others in powering our travel trailer. I installed an Anderson connector on the trailer and am able to sandwich the pair of 6ga DC wires between the top of the tailgate and the weatherproof seal on my Diamondback cover:

From a weatherproof standpoint, no issues with water getting in the tailgate. I think this is partly due to the Diamondback sitting on top of the tailgate and the forgiving amount of flex in the rubber seal that's used.

The Anderson connector itself is technically not weatherproof. Anderson does sell an IP64 boot that, in hindsight, I should get installed. When I initially set things up, I thought this was more of a "nice to have" that would not used in bad weather. But plans and weather don't always align...

I debated using some other more weatherproof connectors, but I really wanted something that could break away in the event I forget to disconnect. On longer trips we keep a Dometic cooler in the truck and can keep that running off the trailer. It's just a matter of time before I drive the truck away from the campsite forgetting that I'm tethered to the trailer .

From the Pro Power standpoint, things are pretty basic. There's a 30-amp charger in the bed of the truck. It's pulling 400~450 watts, so nothing close to the capabilities of the truck. But a bigger charger would take more space, require thicker wires, and just get generally violate the fun-to-hassle ratio.

A bit of extra info for @Samson16 - we have an InTech Sol Horizon. In the original lead acid battery box, there's a vent out the bottom (not just the vent out the side of the trailer that's immediately visible). If you upgrade to lithium after purchase, you will have a hole in the bottom of your trailer that's perfect for pulling in external cables. In my case I was able to repurpose the hole for the the DC Anderson line. But it would be just as easy to pull in 30A AC. There's room in that storage area for the transfer switch and you are right next to the factory installed load center.

 

[Samson16]

I took a similar approach as others in powering our travel trailer. I installed an Anderson connector on the trailer and am able to sandwich the pair of 6ga DC wires between the top of the tailgate and the weatherproof seal on my Diamondback cover:

From a weatherproof standpoint, no issues with water getting in the tailgate. I think this is partly due to the Diamondback sitting on top of the tailgate and the forgiving amount of flex in the rubber seal that's used.

The Anderson connector itself is technically not weatherproof. Anderson does sell an IP64 boot that, in hindsight, I should get installed. When I initially set things up, I thought this was more of a "nice to have" that would not used in bad weather. But plans and weather don't always align...

I debated using some other more weatherproof connectors, but I really wanted something that could break away in the event I forget to disconnect. On longer trips we keep a Dometic cooler in the truck and can keep that running off the trailer. It's just a matter of time before I drive the truck away from the campsite forgetting that I'm tethered to the trailer .

From the Pro Power standpoint, things are pretty basic. There's a 30-amp charger in the bed of the truck. It's pulling 400~450 watts, so nothing close to the capabilities of the truck. But a bigger charger would take more space, require thicker wires, and just get generally violate the fun-to-hassle ratio.

A bit of extra info for @Samson16 - we have an InTech Sol Horizon. In the original lead acid battery box, there's a vent out the bottom (not just the vent out the side of the trailer that's immediately visible). If you upgrade to lithium after purchase, you will have a hole in the bottom of your trailer that's perfect for pulling in external cables. In my case I was able to repurpose the hole for the the DC Anderson line. But it would be just as easy to pull in 30A AC. There's room in that storage area for the transfer switch and you are right next to the factory installed load center.

Horizon! What a great trailer Thanks for the info. Repurposing the bottom vent would be less visible and a cleaner looking install.

 

[Snakebitten]

The amazing things that fellas have done to leverage ProPower.

It's such a catalyst for the thinkers and tinkerers.

 

[Samson16]

The amazing things that fellas have done to leverage ProPower.

It's such a catalyst for the thinkers and tinkerers.

It's the greatest thing eva!!!

*unless you're a toyota fan then you told toyota you don't need or want such a thing...heh-heh

 

[EricR]

When designing my system, after some thinking, l realized there was no need for a transfer switch. There was no use case where we needed both shore power and PPoB connected at the same time. So a single input is sufficient.

I simply disconnected the original shore power input from the trailer's 120V breaker panel. Then I wired the new 120V cable (running from the tongue) in its place.

When we are boondocking I connect the PPoB to the new connector on the trailer tongue. When at an RV park I connect the park power to the same connector on the tongue.

 

[astrand1]

Have a tonneau cover and the power cable fits through the back corner while the cover is closed and locked.

Same! Works great.

 

[turbopilot]

When designing my system, after some thinking, l realized there was no need for a transfer switch. There was no use case where we needed both shore power and PPoB connected at the same time. So a single input is sufficient.

I simply disconnected the original shore power input from the trailer's 120V breaker panel. Then I wired the new 120V cable (running from the tongue) in its place.

When we are boondocking I connect the PPoB to the new connector on the trailer tongue. When at an RV park I connect the park power to the same connector on the tongue.

The problem gets complicated when you have a 50 amp trailer. The trailer came with a 50 amp on the left rear of the trailer. To convert to a 50 amp connector at the front of the trailer would have required rewiring the trailer from the load center to the front of the trailer with heavy 50 amp cable. Then I would have to carry an extra length of 50 amp cable to make sure I could reach the pedestal for shore power from the front of the trailer. When I looked at the weight and complexity in my case it made more sense to run a lighter 30 amp cable to the front of the trailer and use the transfer switch as a junction for the two power supplies.

 

[EricR]

Good distinction!

30 Amp all around in my case.

My post was for the others talking about transfer switches.

 

[RociPB]

Silly question but did you turn on generator mode? If not you are limited to 400W.

This

Thanks. Actually I think it is the spring load cap putting pressure on the plug. Don't see why the cleat cannot be filed down. However it takes a fair amount of twisting force to lock the plug down into the socket. Still looking for a nice after market kit to solve this problem of not having an external connector.

I worry about the 220V outset gasket, because I have found water in my outlets after washing in the past and I worry that those could be an easy point of failure for the whole system. I want to either create or buy an aftermarket canvas cover that zips down over the outlet panel. I suppose i could install a curtain of canvas attached at the top and sides.

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