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Blue22

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I also got this. I haven't figured out where to put it yet, but I'm thinking of putting a black license plate up front and mount it there (Same with an anderson plug for my quick release jumper cables)

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Yeah I am also thinking about getting one of those. If I did, I would really like to come up with a way to use the passenger side fender badge as a mount for the outlet since my battery charger is so close to it. Ideally, it would be trick to come up with a way to put a hinge on the top of the rectangle that says F-150 and have the outlet mounted behind it. I am going to buy a cheap one on Ebay and play around with it to see if it's feasible. I know there are two tabs on the back of that part that secures it to the fender but I am thinking adding 3M double sided tape along the top to make up for the lack of the tabs.

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FrankThompson

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Yeah I am also thinking about getting one of those. If I did, I would really like to come up with a way to use the passenger side fender badge as a mount for the outlet since my battery charger is so close to it. Ideally, it would be trick to come up with a way to put a hinge on the top of the rectangle that says F-150 and have the outlet mounted behind it. I am going to buy a cheap one on Ebay and play around with it to see if it's feasible. I know there are two tabs on the back of that part that secures it to the fender but I am thinking adding 3M double sided tape along the top to make up for the lack of the tabs.

s-l500.png
Honestly, my thought about putting it on the front was in case I try and back out with it plugged in...LOL At least it would pull out. (there are some really expensive ones that will eject it when you supply 12v power, which is cool)

I use a permanently mounted one in my Pontiac Solstice, but I have to pop the hood to plug it in so it's a bit harder to forget (but not impossible...LOL)

I like the idea of the badge. You should start a thread and track your progress on that. It is a cool idea.
 

Blue22

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Honestly, my thought about putting it on the front was in case I try and back out with it plugged in...LOL At least it would pull out. (there are some really expensive ones that will eject it when you supply 12v power, which is cool)

I use a permanently mounted one in my Pontiac Solstice, but I have to pop the hood to plug it in so it's a bit harder to forget (but not impossible...LOL)

I like the idea of the badge. You should start a thread and track your progress on that. It is a cool idea.
Believe me I have thought about the possibility of backing out of the garage with it plugged in so I definitely see the benefit of plugging it in to the front. Right now it's plugged in by the front passenger side and I put a Post-It note on my steering wheel to remind me. If I do decide to try to make the fender badge idea work I will post it.
 

thebigdu

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Great choice. I upgraded my PB Platty to 34” KO2’s a few weeks ago and am thrilled with them! ‘Can’t wait for the first snow to test these bad boys.

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Looks great! Also love the SQ! Any noticeable MPG hit from the KO2s?
 

Madman

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Looks great! Also love the SQ! Any noticeable MPG hit from the KO2s?
Yes. Between the 2” Level the larger diameter and heavier tires, and the drop in temperatures, I’ve lost about 3-4 mpg. About 1 of those is from the uncalibrated speedometer, so I would guess the KO2’s cost around 1.5-2.0 mpg. Definitely worth it!
 

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wolfman1

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no, they do not touch when they swing thru their range of motion, not in an F150. In my 2019 Ranger, they did.
when they are swung out to be parallel with the tailgate, they sit Over the tailgate, so no it wont close with them in that position... and they wouldn't have anything holding them in place. The cases lock in place into their latch on the bed side.
Thanks, I appreciate the help! Do you have a rough idea of how much space there is between the top of the swing case and the bed rail?
 

CaptainAmericaRob

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here's how i mounted the ROTOPAX mount to the Sing Case.
  • i still need to trim the bolt lengths, and file down the plate edges where i cut it.
  • i used carriage bolts for the ROTOPAX mount sine they have square mounting holes
  • all stainless hardware w/nylock nuts on ROTOPAX mount.

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Jloyd98

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A few days ago, I finally got rid of my FX4 stickers. Was thinking about getting solid black ones to match the rest of my black accents, but I'm really liking the clean look for now.



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imnuts

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Put my rubber floor mats in the front for winter and my snow brush under the rear seat. I wanted to put my portable shovel in too, but I don't have enough room under the seat for it.
 

SWFLGuy

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A few days ago, I finally got rid of my FX4 stickers. Was thinking about getting solid black ones to match the rest of my black accents, but I'm really liking the clean look for now.



IMG_5921.JPG
This truck is gorgeous! What size tires are those?
 

Jloyd98

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This truck is gorgeous! What size tires are those?
Appreciate that, thanks! I went conservative on the tires with 285/60/20 on 20x9 +1 offset rims. I feel like they are the right size on the 2.5" level.
 

JohnMcClane

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To start, I ordered some emblems from eBay and Amazon, be sure to order the right ones, trucks w/o 360 cameras have different ones than what I have. I think everyone without a tailgate applique has the same rear emblem.

You can get used since you're going to be doing some sanding.

I followed the process in this video very closely:



There are a few differences I will note:

I originally taped off the "Ford" lettering *after* I had already painted the basecoat/clearcoat (it was perfect...) for painting the rugged black spray paint for around the edges. However, I couldn't find proper masking tape and just used packing tape in a pinch, well, I am now qualified to say that is a "bad'" idea, it messed up the clear coat on the lettering and actually tore off a little chunk down to the plastic below, I had the option to move forward, or basically start over...

So after starting over, I decided to do rugged black first, followed by the "Ford" lettering.

I used this tape to mask off the rugged black when I painted "Ford" lettering, it stuck well to the black and didn't peel any of it off or leave any residue:
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If you paint in your 196.9 million mi² variable temperature, variable humidity, and variable light paint booth like I do, try and get close to specs on the can for painting, one evening after a getting the kids to bed and maybe a few beers... I think the humidity was too high and I didn't wait the full 5 minutes between coats for the base coat (only 3 minutes suggested for the plastic adhesion promotor, so I just kept the 3 minute interval instead of reading the can 🤦‍♂️). So I got some sweet wrinkling...

So after a third attempt on the Ford lettering, I got it right…

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From left to right:
- Duplicolor 1K Clear Hight Gloss Finish was just used on the "Ford" lettering and the slim black ring
- Plastic Adhesion promoter, if bare plastic was exposed, even just a little bit, this got sprayed on.
- Rustoleum Rugged Black Premium Laquer, with practice you could probably get it to match the black plastic texture on the truck, I didn't want to invest any more time trying to match it perfectly.
- Duplicolor Universal Black Metallic Perfect Match, this was used on the slim black ring that comes off altogether.
- Space White Basecoat ordered from: https://www.automotivetouchup.com/

Now I just need to find the time to install them and decide what to do with the slightly used ones that are on the truck.

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I am resurrecting this to say:

Avoid that Duplicolor 1K clear like the plague

I thought I finished painting the AirDesign Fender vents with custom mounts I made only to learn the 1K yellowed noticeably enough to make me take them off and start the fun process of removing the clear to re-clear.

Giving spray max 2k a go, will let you know how it goes.
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