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Pedestrian Sounder Delete (No Codes, Easily Reversible)

F1Fiddy

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You won't regret it. Completely changes the experience of driving this truck.
^this. So so much better and don’t let the sound police scare you. They have zero clue that with this unplugged the electric motor itself makes more than enough nosie!
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VbPb

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I was able to reach a finger over the top of the speaker connector and press the release tab. But, there wasn’t room to reach up and pull the connector off at the same time. So, I stuck a long flat blade screwdriver up through the bottom side of the dynamic air damn and used it to lever the bottom of the connector while I pressed the top side release tab. Worked first try.

Cheers,
 

ryanc111

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After a couple of tries (largely due to user error regarding where on the top of the plug the tab was) I was able to get it installed. Definitely a game changer and money well spent!
 

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Daniel Harris

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Figured I'd put this into a new thread just for visibility. I know many have wanted to disable the pedestrian sounder (The device making the "groaning" fake engine sound as well as the backup alarm) on the PowerBoost. Full credit goes to PeteRit's post here, I just made some directions for anyone who would like to give it a try themselves.

Obligatory Disclaimer: The pedestrian sounder is obviously a safety device, and is there for a reason. Any modifications you do to your truck are entirely your own responsibility.

With that out of the way, here's the relatively simple process of bypassing the sounder. The best part of this workaround is it's barely 5 minutes to revert the change and put everything back as it was from the factory if you ever need to.

What's needed:
- Tailgate delete connector (Look in your glovebox for the bag of connectors, we're going to use one of them)
- 1x 25w 4ohm Resistor (This will work)
- 2x 1.5mm male connector pins (This kit should work. Has a lot more than you need, but is cheap enough and may come in handy later, I'm sure you could get just the pins somewhere else for cheaper if you wanted.)
- Some scrap 18-20AWG wire (Around 6-8" is all you should need)
- Some shrink tube or tape to seal things up
- A soldering iron

For those not feeling too adventurous, @WillB17 had the entrepreneurial spirit to start selling these. Go ahead and send him a PM if you’d like a ready-made solution.

Assemble the bypass device:
- Crimp/solder your two pins to some wire and insert them into the connector (These should snap into place when properly inserted and not want to come back out)
- Solder in the resistor to connect the two leads on your pins, here’s what mine looked like
1633006678390.png

- Clean everything up a bit by securing it all together, I used some shrink tube and will probably add some additional protection later to waterproof it better
1633006688693.png


Install the bypass device:
- Disconnect your sounder module and plug your resistor setup into the harness that came off of the module
- I’d recommend covering up the connector on the module to keep it clean for potential future use and securing your new connector somewhere so it’s not just dangling around
- You're all done - the sounder will now be completely eliminated and no codes/lights should be present at all. In the event you ever need to put things back, all you need to do is unplug your "bypass device" and plug the sounder back in. No factory wiring is modified at all.
Figured I'd put this into a new thread just for visibility. I know many have wanted to disable the pedestrian sounder (The device making the "groaning" fake engine sound as well as the backup alarm) on the PowerBoost. Full credit goes to PeteRit's post here, I just made some directions for anyone who would like to give it a try themselves.

Obligatory Disclaimer: The pedestrian sounder is obviously a safety device, and is there for a reason. Any modifications you do to your truck are entirely your own responsibility.

With that out of the way, here's the relatively simple process of bypassing the sounder. The best part of this workaround is it's barely 5 minutes to revert the change and put everything back as it was from the factory if you ever need to.

What's needed:
- Tailgate delete connector (Look in your glovebox for the bag of connectors, we're going to use one of them)
- 1x 25w 4ohm Resistor (This will work)
- 2x 1.5mm male connector pins (This kit should work. Has a lot more than you need, but is cheap enough and may come in handy later, I'm sure you could get just the pins somewhere else for cheaper if you wanted.)
- Some scrap 18-20AWG wire (Around 6-8" is all you should need)
- Some shrink tube or tape to seal things up
- A soldering iron

For those not feeling too adventurous, @WillB17 had the entrepreneurial spirit to start selling these. Go ahead and send him a PM if you’d like a ready-made solution.

Assemble the bypass device:
- Crimp/solder your two pins to some wire and insert them into the connector (These should snap into place when properly inserted and not want to come back out)
- Solder in the resistor to connect the two leads on your pins, here’s what mine looked like
Ford F-150 Pedestrian Sounder Delete (No Codes, Easily Reversible) 1633006678390

- Clean everything up a bit by securing it all together, I used some shrink tube and will probably add some additional protection later to waterproof it better
Ford F-150 Pedestrian Sounder Delete (No Codes, Easily Reversible) 1633006688693


Install the bypass device:
- Disconnect your sounder module and plug your resistor setup into the harness that came off of the module
- I’d recommend covering up the connector on the module to keep it clean for potential future use and securing your new connector somewhere so it’s not just dangling around
- You're all done - the sounder will now be completely eliminated and no codes/lights should be present at all. In the event you ever need to put things back, all you need to do is unplug your "bypass device" and plug the sounder back in. No factory wiring is modified at all.
Thank you,
Ford F-150 Pedestrian Sounder Delete (No Codes, Easily Reversible) IMG_20211212_115515170
 

ocwill1

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Thank you OP for this. Made my own delete and the bong bong is now gone... Had to take off the bolt of that metal plate and move that aside to get my hand up in there, but still only took about 5 minutes start to finish.
 

Kirchdc

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Thanks! Hey Craig, I shot you a message! Please check your inbox.
Received my resister/speaker replacement today, WillB17 makes a nice build, quick and easy! A++ Thanks Will!
Hopefully my truck is built this week.
 

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mj1angier

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So I just did this today. Some of my observation:

1. Even though I was an autoglass installer for 15 year, I don't like working on cars! And as I have gotten older and fatter I like it less.

2. The hook did not work for me. I think it was just so sharp that I could not get a feel of where the top of plug stopped and the button started. It just tried to stick in everything. I think a blunt tip would be better

3. Just drop the skid plate down. Two 15mm bolts and its down. The cooler above it will move around and give you more room.

4. With the plate down I could get my fat, arthritic finger on the button. I was putting the plate back on 5 min. after taking it off.

5. It's nice to sit there in the quite. Not worried about hitting anyone moving- the whine of transmission will warn them, lol!
 

Gulfstream

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Thank you to the OP @xtraman122 and to @WillB17!! The sounder delete installed very quickly, aided by precise instructions (there are pictures included!!!) provided by Will. I love the quiet (!!) of my truck now. I had a timing issue with the shipment which was my fault, but Will was very helpful all along!!!!
 

WillB17

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Thank you to the OP @xtraman122 and to @WillB17!! The sounder delete installed very quickly, aided by precise instructions (there are pictures included!!!) provided by Will. I love the quiet (!!) of my truck now. I had a timing issue with the shipment which was my fault, but Will was very helpful all along!!!!
Super happy you got it on time!
 
 




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