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Rear axle bolt failure...AGAIN!!

Pedaldude

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Somewhere I took a screenshot of the Ford document that Buyer2021 posted:

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/help-tsb-for-rear-axle-bolt-shearing-off.12441/#post-354793

If I recall correctly; it also specifies replacement of the brake caliper bolts. Which means Ford also knows that after the axle bolts shear, the only thing holding the wheel on axially is the brakes.

Hopefully the aftermarket steps in with a full-float hub conversion. The current HD9.75” Max-Tow axle housing is already 3/4 of the way there. 😛

Unfortunately, Ford won’t be doing shit until someone’s wheel actually falls off.
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Buyer2021

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.... it also specifies replacement of the brake caliper bolts. Which means Ford also knows that after the axle bolts shear, the only thing holding the wheel on axially is the brakes.
That's simply wrong thinking - you cannot draw any such conclusion from the fact of the requirement to replace the caliper bolts in the subject axle-bolt repair procedure. The caliper must be removed to R&R the axle shaft/hub assembly.

Read the Workshop Manual stand-alone procedure for caliper removal and you'll learn that Ford specifies replacement of those bolts whenever the caliper is removed for any reason. They are among the many single-use bolts found throughout these vehicles which are noted in the Workshop Manual to be replaced whenever removed.....


206-04 Rear Disc Brake
2022 F-150
Removal and Installation
Procedure revision date: 10/2/2020

Brake Caliper

Removal

.....

Ford F-150 Rear axle bolt failure...AGAIN!! S32~us~en~file=E329717_EUR_580_JPG~gen~ref.JPG

6. Remove the 2 bolts and the parking brake actuator motor. Discard the bolts.
Torque : 106 lb.in (12 Nm)
 
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HammaMan

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Somewhere I took a screenshot of the Ford document that Buyer2021 posted:

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/help-tsb-for-rear-axle-bolt-shearing-off.12441/#post-354793

If I recall correctly; it also specifies replacement of the brake caliper bolts. Which means Ford also knows that after the axle bolts shear, the only thing holding the wheel on axially is the brakes.

Hopefully the aftermarket steps in with a full-float hub conversion. The current HD9.75” Max-Tow axle housing is already 3/4 of the way there. 😛

Unfortunately, Ford won’t be doing shit until someone’s wheel actually falls off.
Ford just likes you to throw away bolts. Seat bolts, steering wheel bolt, brake caliper bolts, transmission bellhousing bolts, transfer case bolts, just toss them into the trash. I'm surprised they don't have people tossing lug nuts too.
 

DanielBoca

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Posting here too, got my truck fixed quickly on passenger's side, will probably call Ford to schedule driver side just to be sure.

Ford F-150 Rear axle bolt failure...AGAIN!! IMG_9466
 

WhiteLightningnshitshadow

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That's simply wrong thinking - you cannot draw any such conclusion from the fact of the requirement to replace the caliper bolts in the subject axle-bolt repair procedure. The caliper must be removed to R&R the axle shaft/hub assembly.

Read the Workshop Manual stand-alone procedure for caliper removal and you'll learn that Ford specifies replacement of those bolts whenever the caliper is removed for any reason. They are among the many single-use bolts found throughout these vehicles which are noted in the Workshop Manual to be replaced whenever removed.....


206-04 Rear Disc Brake
2022 F-150
Removal and Installation
Procedure revision date: 10/2/2020

Brake Caliper

Removal

.....

S32~us~en~file=E329717_EUR_580_JPG~gen~ref.JPG

6. Remove the 2 bolts and the parking brake actuator motor. Discard the bolts.
Torque : 106 lb.in (12 Nm)
That's such a bizarre decision? Why would a 100 ftlbs bolt be single use?

I would be surprised if anyone actually does this.
 

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lilburnedbear

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Had some squeaking at light breaking over the past couple of weelks that has now erupted to full blown squealing. Checked this thread and underneath both rear center caps: found broken bolt/washer at passenger rear and no bolt/washer at all at driver rear. At this point shoiuld i even drive the triuck or just get it to dealer to fix?
 

Jus Cruisin

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Had some squeaking at light breaking over the past couple of weelks that has now erupted to full blown squealing. Checked this thread and underneath both rear center caps: found broken bolt/washer at passenger rear and no bolt/washer at all at driver rear. At this point shoiuld i even drive the triuck or just get it to dealer to fix?
Contact your dealer for parts availability I'd personally not drive it much if at all, especially with the noises you're describing.
 

Calson

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It comes down to quality control which is even more critical with so many parts made overseas by the lowest cost bidders. In most cases the problem is that the bolt is not hardened properly for the expected loads. That is why there are Grade number associated with bolts. A Grade 4 bolt or stud can take double the load of a Grade 1 one.

The only way to be sure that a bolt is going to be adequate is to take a sampling of a production lot and then do destructive testing and determine at what load it fails. If it is not up to the specified value then the entire load should be rejected. But if Ford chose to shortcut the process and not sample bolts and do destructive testing then it is not surprising that a substandard lot made its way to the assembly line.

Seldom is the purchasing department measured as to its preformance in insuring the quality of the parts it buys. The emphasis is instead on reducing costs and that is what determines the pay and bonuses for management.

It would be worthwhile to go to an independent repair shop and have them do the work and replace all the bolts with new ones not purchased from Ford. You should not have to do this but it would resolve the matter.

When my Chevy Tahoe had warped rotors at only 28,000 miles I paid to have aftermarket rotors and calipers installed by an independent garage and I bought all the parts online going for the best ones available. The SUV brakes were in great condition when I sold it with 178,000 miles on the odometer. Had problems with a blown head gasket on its engine at less than 40,000 miles and I bought racing grade gaskets for the repair that was done by a local shop. Sometimes aftermarket third party parts are much better than the factory OEM parts.
 

JJSnell

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It comes down to quality control which is even more critical with so many parts made overseas by the lowest cost bidders. In most cases the problem is that the bolt is not hardened properly for the expected loads. That is why there are Grade number associated with bolts. A Grade 4 bolt or stud can take double the load of a Grade 1 one.
I agree but also want to ask, is it just an "overseas" problem or are these union workers getting paid $70 an hour to bolt things on a truck part of the problem? My cousins next door neighbor (lives in Northville, Michigan) says he makes about $70/hr putting bumper skirts on cars all day. All self loading pnuematic tools. When the plant is closed or halted, they still have to show onsite and 'be present' to get paid....
 

HANCOCK

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got recall no fix Till second quarter nice just Till they can figure out the cheapest way to fix it I guess that's what that means


Recalls *
Rear axle half-shaft and hub assembly replacementRecall Incomplete, remedy not yet available

Campaign/NHTSA#
23S65/23V896
Issue Date
2023-12-22
Description
On your vehicle, it may be possible the wheel end hub bolt in the rear axle may become loose or break. Continued driving with a broken bolt may lead to wear within the axle and damage the axle hub splines.
Safety Risk
This may initially result in a clicking noise as the bolt becomes loose and a rattle noise from the wheel cap if the bolt breaks. Vehicles with damaged axle hub splines may roll in park without the parking brake applied, or, alternatively, lose drive power, both of which may increase the risk of injury or a crash.
Remedy
Ford Motor Company is working to develop the service remedy for this repair. When the final service repair and parts are available, Ford Motor Company will notify you via mail to schedule a service appointment with your dealer for repairs to be completed free of charge parts and labor. The final repair and parts are anticipated to be available 2ND quarter 2024.
Next Steps
Contact your local dealer and schedule a maintenance appointment. To find your local dealer, use the "find a dealer" feature below.
 

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Ed21

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Continued driving with a broken bolt may lead to wear within the axle and damage the axle hub splines. [/QUOTE said:
But the differential will be come out undamaged as the spider gear is immune such abuse!
 

Buyer2021

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I've not yet received a snail-mail or FordPass notification, but I do now see the axle bolt recall listed when I enter my VIN in the NHTSA and Ford Owner recall lookup websites.

Nope, no permanent remedy yet, but at least there should be no question about getting the 'temporary' fix now regardless of warranty status (my VIN / date-range was not 'covered' in the pre-recall CSP).

Knocking on wood, no problems with my bolts to this date.
 

JJSnell

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Hmmm I just entered my VIN and Im also part of this recall. Originally I was out of the designated range of the recall... now it looks like Im in.....
:(
 

Buyer2021

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Originally I was out of the designated range of the recall...
Are you sure that wasn't the Ford CSP (distinct from the NHTSA recall)?

The NHTSA recall is just now posted on those lookups for the first time, thankfully much more comprehensive than the CSP.
 

JJSnell

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Are you sure that wasn't the Ford CSP (distinct from the NHTSA recall)?

The NHTSA recall is just now posted on those lookups for the first time, thankfully much more comprehensive than the CSP.
Yah the original had (I cant recall exactly) a date range or VIN range. Either way I was out of it. I think it was a date range. I have the NHTSA bookmarked and check, (not often) but infrequently. This just made me look again.
Ford F-150 Rear axle bolt failure...AGAIN!! 1705513092268
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