Pedestrian Sounder Delete (No Codes, Easily Reversible)

[WillB17]

I am continually getting parts in and will continue to make these for the community. If you are interested, please send a PM.

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[SARosei]

I am continually getting parts in and will continue to make these for the community. If you are interested, please send a PM.

just did -- thanks so much

 

[Pepito113]

I am continually getting parts in and will continue to make these for the community. If you are interested, please send a PM.

I am interested in one. Let me know what they run. Ty

 

[PBXL]

I got a special present in the mail from WillB17 today. It worked like a charm. Disconnecting the speaker, however, was challenging and without the instructions on here, I don't think I would have been able to do it.

 

[mdmeints]

I got mine from WillB17 and it looks great, Can not wait to install. Good workmanship and looks well made.

 

[Pepito113]

I got a special present in the mail from WillB17 today. It worked like a charm. Disconnecting the speaker, however, was challenging and without the instructions on here, I don't think I would have been able to do it.

I have to read them again. Any tricks or tips you learned?

 

[PBXL]

I have to read them again. Any tricks or tips you learned?

I crawled back under to take some pictures so hopefully this helps. I did not want to go as far as re-connecting the speaker again because I still have PTSD from yesterday so my apologies:

1. Here is the general layout underneath the front of the car towards the driver's side. For my Powerboost FX4, the speaker is right over the active air dam and between the frame and a skid plate. I do not know if non-FX4 have the skid plate.

2. The tab you need to press when it is still connected to the speaker is on the opposite side of what you can see, which is the trickiest part. So I ended up using the hooked o-ring pick to pull down on the connector to press the tab, and then I used the flathead screwdriver to lever against the active air dam to pop off the connector. It did not come out slowly for me. It didn't budge and made me regret my life choices, and then all of a sudden it popped off. The rest was all downhill because there was enough slack in the wires where attaching the new device was not even an issue.

I tried a bunch of different tools such as pliers, but these ended up being the only effective ones:

 

[WillB17]

Hi Guys, glad everyone is enjoying the parts. I am getting some feedback about people wanting to cover the speaker plug, so I will be developing one in the next day or so. For those that have already purchased a device from me, I will be messaging and sending one your way once its been created, all I ask is that shipping is covered, and of course you can decline the part as well.

All future orders will include a speaker cap, expect a small bump in price (probably $2-3 to cover materials)

 

[WillB17]

I crawled back under to take some pictures so hopefully this helps. I did not want to go as far as re-connecting the speaker again because I still have PTSD from yesterday so my apologies:

1. Here is the general layout underneath the front of the car towards the driver's side. For my Powerboost FX4, the speaker is right over the active air dam and between the frame and a skid plate. I do not know if non-FX4 have the skid plate.

2. The tab you need to press when it is still connected to the speaker is on the opposite side of what you can see, which is the trickiest part. So I ended up using the hooked o-ring pick to pull down on the connector to press the tab, and then I used the flathead screwdriver to lever against the active air dam to pop off the connector. It did not come out slowly for me. It didn't budge and made me regret my life choices, and then all of a sudden it popped off. The rest was all downhill because there was enough slack in the wires where attaching the new device was not even an issue.

I tried a bunch of different tools such as pliers, but these ended up being the only effective ones:

PBXL, with your permission I'd like to create instructions based on your post that I can include with the devices I am sending out. Let me know if that's okay with you.

 

[PBXL]

PBXL, with your permission I'd like to create instructions based on your post that I can include with the devices I am sending out. Let me know if that's okay with you.

That is totally fine with me!

 

[JediNut]

I crawled back under to take some pictures so hopefully this helps. I did not want to go as far as re-connecting the speaker again because I still have PTSD from yesterday so my apologies:

1. Here is the general layout underneath the front of the car towards the driver's side. For my Powerboost FX4, the speaker is right over the active air dam and between the frame and a skid plate. I do not know if non-FX4 have the skid plate.

I was able to easily push down on the tab using a medium sized flathead screwdriver going through the square hole in the "box frame" that you can see in the picture above. Just use another screwdriver levered against the air dam to gently push the plug off the speaker.

A small zip-tie through the holes on the sides of the resistor and I secured it to the frame quite nicely.

Thanks @WillB17!!!

 

[dmac]

Hey all, I just ended up doing a cheaper fix today that's more of a happy medium.

I took about a 4 inch square of 80ml butyl sound deadener I had leftover (Dynamat or similar),
and covered the speaker.

I love it because
1) Windows Up driving < 25 mph - if I'm on quiet road, hybrid is in electric mode, and music + AC off.... I can BARELY hear it.

2) Windows Down driving < 25 mph - I can hear it, which means pedestrians will too, so it still is doing it's job.

Same with backing up - I can hear the beeping just barely windows up, but definitely can windows down (so pedestrians can too)

This is wayyy better than before - where if the windows were up and I went from 26 to 25 mph, it was like my truck started a long descending fart that lasted until I came to a stop.

Just thought I'd share. Costs about 10 cents of material and 5m of your time..

 

[BHunted1]

Hey all, I just ended up doing a cheaper fix today that's more of a happy medium.

I took about a 4 inch square of 80ml butyl sound deadener I had leftover (Dynamat or similar),
and covered the speaker.

I love it because
1) Windows Up driving < 25 mph - if I'm on quiet road, hybrid is in electric mode, and music + AC off.... I can BARELY hear it.

2) Windows Down driving < 25 mph - I can hear it, which means pedestrians will too, so it still is doing it's job.

Same with backing up - I can hear the beeping just barely windows up, but definitely can windows down (so pedestrians can too)

This is wayyy better than before - where if the windows were up and I went from 26 to 25 mph, it was like my truck started a long descending fart that lasted until I came to a stop.

Just thought I'd share. Costs about 10 cents of material and 5m of your time..

Not cheaper if have to buy it from scratch. It's expensive for a decent size sheet. You were just lucky you had a left over piece from a project.

 

[PFD664]

Just Installed the device created by WillB17 today. It is so nice not to hear that darn speaker growling any more. Thank you the others who have contributed with tip & tricks to getting the connector to release with the screwdriver it really helped especially with my wreck-it-ralph sized hands.... Ahhhhhhhhh, the sound of silence.

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