stock battery 3.5 eco boost

[TheCleaner]

@Sky111
May I ask what device you are using for Bluetooth monitoring of the voltage?

OBDLink MX+

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[Calson]

The lithium-phosphate batteries cannot be charged when they are at temperatures below 10 degrees without a battery heater installed. They work better as a "house" battery for an RV but provide no advantages over AGM for a starter battery.

What is likely needed is a second standard size AGM battery and a higher output alternator like how pickups with V-8 diesels are engineered.

 

[HammaMan]

one more comment: I abandoned the crazy idea of getting lithium car battery. it is not only $1200 US vs CAD$300 , but the main concern is Ford BMS that will likely to damage the lithium battery. Yes Antigravity batteries do come with their own BMS, but I am not brave (or crazy) enough to yank out factory BMS. And Forscan does not let you to customize BMS settings beyond type of the battery (AGM or flood), and % it will charge...

You can make your own for ~$500 w/ quality cells. The BMS allows you to set all sorts of parameters. You can't just swap in a LFP battery in trucks that have the aux battery as they're different chemistries and only isolate during start.

 

[Calson]

There is a problem with the F-150 that results in a 10-amp drain on the battery. I was finding the SOC at 30% and after the dealer put in a new battery there has been no improvement. The battery is rated for 760 CCA and it was at 100% SOC at 10 PM last night. This morning at 8 AM the SOC was at 61%.

About a 300 amp drain over a period of 10 hours. Only leaving the headlights on would result in that amount of drain occuring so there is something that is causing a parasitic drain that Ford is not disclosing. For truck owners to be combing through forums and spending time using FORScan is not the answer.

If after two more trips to the dealer for the battery draining problem it is not resolved I am going to be invoking the Lemon Law as my truck is not usable.

I certainly cannot recommend a Ford pickup to others with this defect that started with the 2021 trucks and still have no fix from the manufacturer.

 

[Snakebitten]

Wait, are you saying Ford F150's shouldn't be for sale (purchased) if some percentage of them has a parasitic draw?

I agree that the Factory Authorized Service Center should be capable of fixing your truck. And I'm not surprised that they can't. But what about the many hundreds of 1000's of these trucks that aren't suffering this malady?

Mine happens to experience a random parasitic draw. And I haven't yet isolated it. And I really want to nip it in the bud.
But no way is Ford getting this truck back from me. Nor would I try to convince someone else NOT to purchase one just like it.

I do get that not everyone has the same tolerance for such things, but there IS a fix. Just need someone with the skillset to track it down.

 

[Jersey Jim]

On another note. I went into the BCM with forscan and changed the BATTERY TARGET STATE OF CHARGE TO 95%. Monitoring the charging I get conventional charging to 95%. The system now floats the battery SOC at 95%. Since doing this the truck has not gone into deep sleep. No issues with anything else other than the auto start stop kicks in more often.

Hopefully everything I typed makes sense.

Forscan change; BCM, 726-08-02 (xxxx xx05 00) = 80% Target State of Charge
BCM, 726-08-02 (xxxx xx05 F0) = 95% Target State of Charge

David, this is EXACTLY what I need to do! Charge current drops off to a 1-amp float charge at 80% SOC. I need to get it higher for when I charge Battery Stihl chainsaws in the woods. I haven't measured the SOC consumption yet when doing so, but I estimate about a 40% SOC drop after charging at 30 amps DC draw. I could really use that extra 15% charge.

So is that address and value good for a 2021 2.7L ecoboost as well? And are there other values for a SOC less than 95%?

Thanks.

 

[Jersey Jim]

....... Ok I changed it and the "target SOC" went from 80 to 95, but the current still tapers off to 1 or so amps at 80%. I cycled ignition, etc. but it seemed to have no effect, Is it something that needs several hours to "calibrate" itself? Anyone here have success with increasing their targeted SOC sucessfully?

 

[Snakebitten]

Interesting.

I made the Forscan edit for increased SOC soon after I saw it first posted. But I didn't make an effort to specifically verify what it altered in the charging algorithm.

 

[Jersey Jim]

Bruce, since I just downloaded the pc version of Forscan, and this was my first attempt at changing a parameter, is there something basic I am overlooking? It was my understanding that you don't edit the "as built", but each block has the alternate one to edit?

 

[Jersey Jim]

Ok, on the way to work this morning I noticed that the "Target SOC" paramater I changed last night from 80% to 95% still didn't get acknowledged. Still 1 amp float chare after 80% soc. Also read somewhere that some parameters that are shared by other modules are stored in a common module, and that it might be necessary to "force" a learning of some modules by some sort of initialization. That makes sense, because my SOC parameter resides in a different module than the BodyCM that I changed (I think PCM). So does anyone know how I should go about getting relevent modules to take another look at the register that holds their needed values?

I'm new to Forscan and am hesitant to perform any kind of module reset, etc. without knowing the possible worst case outcome. I only changed a value in block 8 of the Bodycm and wrote it. I confirmed that it took, and that's all. But no change to how high the battey is charging.

Should I be editing the "as built" block? Is that the one the vehicle actually looks at to get values? ... confused.

 

[Snakebitten]

When you edited the value in any block in any module, you did edit the "AsBuilt", since it is now altered. It's no longer configured exactly as it was built.

Although I gotta admit that with this new OTA model, and the truck now talking to the cloud and updating the cloud "AsBuilt" record, now the term "AsBuilt" isn't exactly accurate. Lol

If you can edit the official AsBuilt record in the manufacturer's database, then AsBuilt is no longer AsBuilt!

Don't fear using Forscan as a method to "reset" a module. Think of it as a reboot. Or maybe what would happen anyways if you disconnected the 12V battery for a length of time necessary for the module to go completely dormant, and then wake up fresh again. It's just that Forscan is much easier than removing power to reboot a module.

You aren't doing anything nearly as risky as overwriting firmware, for example.

 

[Calson]

Using a 95% SOC setting is very likely to shorten the battery life significantly. Better to go to a higher capacity battery when the one you now have fails.

What bothers me a great deal is that with my 2022 F-150 truck I can come out in the morning and find the battery dead and need to run an extension cord and use a battery charger before I can drive it. I have not had this problem with any vehicle I have owned going back to a 1952 Willys.

It is not expecting too much to have a vehicle that one can rely on to start so one can drive it. As to how many trucks have this problem, only Ford knows.

I have had to purchase a jump start battery pack, 20 foot 2-gauge jumper cables, and a Schumacher BT-100 battery load tester, which I now keep in the truck. I would expect this had I bought a high mileage thirty year old pickup but not with a new $56,000 one.

It is also a problem unique to the Ford trucks and not shared by those with pickups from Toyota, GM/Chevy, or Ram. I also have the wiper motor that can fail without warning and result in a serious accident. I thought that a Ford truck would be more reliable than one from Ram but I was wrong.

 

[Snakebitten]

How are you sure that only Ford F150's have 12V battery management issues?

I don't think it's nearly as unique as that, although I sure wish the Gen14 F150 wasn't on the list of those that do.

By the way, I have an older low mileage Porsche and keeping a Porsche on a trickle charger if it's not your daily is just an accepted reality. It's just one example, of course, but 12V battery management issues aren't just F150s.

My Powerboost is kinda Jekyll/Hyde with the whole thing. Does great most days, and then every once in a while the High Voltage battery takes a big hit overnight. I suspect that big hit saved my 12V from being drained? Or put another way, it was the 12V parasitic runaway that sucked the HV battery down?

 

[Jersey Jim]

When my 2021 2.7 eco was only several months old, I had to use the jump pack in the morning to go to work. Completely dead. This has only happened once and never since. And that was weeks after successfully starting the truck after it sat unused for a month. Now almost a year later, and peering closer into the electrical aspects of the battery with Forscan, I don't appear to have a bad battery at all. But I do drive 54 miles a day round trip to work.

I have however experienced finding the running lights on when I was certain I turned them off. I shut off the lights manually before the shutting off the engine. In fact, just last Saturday. I always questioned myself as to whether I hit the key fob lock button in my pocket causing this.

 

[Snakebitten]

My commute is a 46 mile round trip. That probably helps.
My charger is currently in phase 7 of the AGM charge cycle currently. Yea, 12 hours of battery maintenance.

I really have no clue how much of a difference it makes to do this once a month or so, as far as extending the lifespan of the embattered battery. But it's not that much of an inconvenience and it let's me feel like I'm doing something about the issue.

In phase 7 voltage is currently reported at 14.7, so I think it's almost done and it will soon drop to show what the battery actual SOC is?

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