My HomeLink Install

[Mosey]

Here are a few photos of my HomeLink install into my overhead console. I purchase a Sun Visor kit from Bezos-world (see screen shot). I did not take photos during installation, so no proper how-to, sorry. If there is interest I am sure I could simulate it.

Installation was straight forward as I have done this to my previous truck. I used the red wire taps to tag the ground, constant, and switched wires off of the overhead console plug. Yes, I know the opener will be live all the time.

The hardest part is making sure you position the button-side so that the radio does not interfere with the head liner when reinstalling the console. There is plenty of room so take you time.

(Tip: the kit comes with black, gray and tan bezels, use one of the colors you will not be installing to check position and fit. That way if you make a mistake it won’t be the color you need getting messed up.)

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[Tobstertx3]

Very clean!! Actually like the location better than the OEM!

 

[Wasatch]

This is a great install, nicely done. I am looking to do the same thing. Can you help me with a few questions?

First, any tricks to removing the overhead console? I don't want to crack any plastic.

Second, are the wires up there fairly easy to access? What colors am I looking for for ground and switched power?

Why did you decide to also connect to constant power? Have you had any problems with battery drain?

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[Mosey]

The overhead console will pop down. Use a pry tool. I cannot remember the colors, but they are all there. No issues with battery drain, it only draws power when presses and when lite up when the ignition is on.

 

[TexasTruck]

I added Homelink to my STX, but I found a 2022 sun visor with Homelink instead. A little more $ I suppose. There are videos that show owners removing the overhead console. IIRC they start at the back, carefully shimmy your fingers between the console and the headliner. I found the trim tools put a lot of pressure on the soft pliable headliner, but maybe I wasn't doing it right

Don't hank on it, instead pull down with steady pressure, slowly pushing your fingers in the gap, all at the same time, then POP like you broke something. I ain't gunna lie it sounds terrible. Then slowly work on one side to pop the rest of a side off, then work on the other. It's not bad. When it's loose, you can disconnect the connectors to completely remove it.

As far as wiring, frankly, after pulling the overhead console down and the black cover on the windshield I wasn't comfortable with splicing on the small gauge wire. At 75* F 22ga = ~7amps and 24ga = ~3.5 amps. I know some guys will get those mirror taps for a radar detector and are just fine. That and the Homelink can't draw that much current for very long any way, but didn't want to chance over loading it, plus it's so simple to run my own wires. I ended up running two 20ga wires from the visor over to the passenger A pillar and down to the fuse box. I tied into the onboard inverter fuse (I don't have an inverter, but all the trims seem to have the circuit) with a fuse tap and added a 5amp fuse. There is a nice frame ground post/nut right there for the negative wire too. I used the inverter fuse because it's key'd on. I didn't want the Homelink to function when the key is off. Just in the off chance someone gets in my truck and can open the garage door.

Hope this helps.....

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