I've never thought about that but it is definitely interesting (headlights dimming when bass hits). I would guess that only happens on incandescent headlights where they are running direct off 12V? Since LEDs cannot take 12V directly to their anode and cathode it has to be stepped down anyway and I bet they are not susceptible to transient battery voltage droops like the incandescent ones.
. I have XLT with the 302A or whatever high package is. I suspect it’s halogen. I’m happy with them so I doubt I’ll change over and looking at the price I’m hoping I do not have them (I just googled see if I could find out how to tell). They would have to pretty much make me get weak in the knees to justify $2500 headlights. I’m assuming that’s price to replace when they go out too. And my 25-year LED bulbs that we switched to in our house must be average because I’ve had to replace a few of them and only been 3 years since we moved in and replaced them all.You might want to spend some more time with the modders’ guide because I’m not sure the lithium battery pack that supplies power to the hybrid system works to provide supplemental power to the 12v system the way the quote above would appear to suggest. The PB actually has three distinct battery banks: the 12v AGM starter battery, the lithium-ion hybrid battery and a third 12v AGM auxiliary battery that provides supplemental power to the starter battery for transient loads during high draw events, like cranking. The operation of this very small aux battery (only 7.5Ah) is described in the same modders’ guide. If the hybrid battery could provide supplemental power to the 12v system, I’m not sure there would be a need for the aux battery.And I’ll let u know tomorrow or Wednesday. I should get it back by then. It’s not a super big setup so I’m hoping it will not but I had a car once with only 1200 watts and it dimmed when bass hit. I’m much older now so don’t really listen to that kinda music anymore. But I will to test it
The manual states there is a DC converter that converts the high voltage (approx 450v) to low voltage (12v) to supply power to the vehicles low voltage system. This is per the manual. I don't know more than what I quoted, but it clearly states there is a converter to use the high-voltage battery system to provide power to the low voltage system. In fact, if you go to page 20 of 58 of that PDF you will see that the 12v battery is listed as a "temporary power source when electrical loads exceed the DC/DC converter output current" which seems pretty clear to me that the DC converter is what supplies the low voltage power with the 12v battery as a "backup". I might suggest you spend a little more time with the modders' guide. Feel free to take my quotes and use your PDF readers search function to find them and read what I've read.
No need to get snotty.
This is interesting, but I’m not sure the 12v starter and aux are isolated. They might be, but here’s the wrinkle. When the Sync system was having lock up issues, one of the suggestions made was to disconnect the starter battery to cut all accessory power and allow the Sync system to reset. That procedure doesn’t work on the Powerboost because there is still retained power from another battery system, even when starter battery is out of the loop. Can that retained power can come from the DC/DC converter and the hybrid battery if the key is off? I’m not sure it can. If not, that leaves only the aux battery to provide retained power directly when the starter can’t handle it—in this example because it is disconnected.
Did this guy get it wrong? He seems to suggest that the Powerboost does have an alternator, same as the 3.5L Ecoboost. https://www.cargenerator.com/blogs/...j-a-m-cargenerator-ford-powerboost-comparison
