HammaMan
Well-known member
Indeed, always perform one's due diligence in looking at how a stand is placed on the wood as well as the wood's condition, and certainly don't align the grain perpendicular to the ground (as in the same manner in which the tree grew). The first thing I do when going on stands is to shove the vehicle and gauge its response. If it's going to fall I'd like to go ahead and just get that part out of the way at the startEveryone, be very careful using dimensional lumber under jack stands! The edge of many jack stands can be like an axe and split old dried dimensional lumber like a log. To protect floors and driveways the best method is to cut squares of 3/4" plywood an inch or two larger than the base of the stand and glue and screw the pieces together until your at the additional height you need.
It depends on where you place them -- if you're at the ends of the vehicle, you're roughly getting weight on wheels. If you're more towards the center of the vehicle you can have nearly the entire vehicle weight on them. It's really just smart to use stands with capacities that can hold the entire vehicle's mass.You guy's got me thinking about mine. I think they're 3 Ton. So, no Rocket Scientist or Holiday Inn employee, but wouldn't the physics be that my 5500# truck is distributing the weight evenly over 4 wheels? (not exactly I know, but just ignore that for a minute here). So at any corner, a jack stand only needs to be holding a half ton. Obviously, if I lift a whole side then two of them are theoretically holding up half the weight of my truck? And no, I'm not advocating someone to skimp on them and risk their life for $20, just saying.
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