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Where to get a front Torsen Differential installed in a F150 non Tremor/Raptor?

5.0Screw22

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So I wanted to circle back.
everything seemed to go well.
I unplugged the steering module at the beginning and plugged it back in at the end and I have no lights or errors.

as for the diff I used the stock shims and landed on a 0.12” backlash, within spec. FYI you need a case spreader to do this job. Idk how you’d do it without one. All in all it’s doable.
Did you do your own install? I am curious why the case spreader was required. Was there an issue driving the shims back into the case without using the case spreader? I have never found a case that I could not get the differential out with the wrench leverage trick. That is why I am guessing it would have to be a shim install issue. Even then, a shim driver and a mallet have never failed me, but they have given me a good work out. I actually own the case spreader adapter plates for this differential, but I have never found a case that needed them. Maybe I have just been lucky!
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TheGoatman

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Yes I did it myself. I think it’s because it’s an aluminum housing. There’s a lot of preload more than I’ve ever seen. The shim was almost impossible getting it in there without it breaking.
The case being aluminum is soft and the spreader will help avoid gouging it in the wrong place.
Have you successfully done an install without a spreader on these aluminum units? I’d be curious to know if it was even possible.
 

SALEEN961

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Yes I did it myself. I think it’s because it’s an aluminum housing. There’s a lot of preload more than I’ve ever seen. The shim was almost impossible getting it in there without it breaking.
The case being aluminum is soft and the spreader will help avoid gouging it in the wrong place.
Have you successfully done an install without a spreader on these aluminum units? I’d be curious to know if it was even possible.
The temperature of the differential can make a big difference. After driving on the highway for 30-40 minutes and immediately getting to work, my rear carrier was so loose that it started to fall out when I removed the caps. Going back in after the housing had cooled down, it was a much tighter fit and it took awhile to drive the shims in.
 

5.0Screw22

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I have not done a front case on a 21+ F150, but I have done a previous gen truck and an aluminum IRS case from a Mustang. I figured they would be similar, but you never know. That is why I was hoping you did your own. It is nice to get someone with first hand experience. I may get to use my case adapters after all. I am waiting for the new Eaton front differential for my truck, so I am just collecting all of the small parts for the job. Any chance you would share your parts list?
 

5.0Screw22

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The temperature of the differential can make a big difference. After driving on the highway for 30-40 minutes and immediately getting to work, my rear carrier was so loose that it started to fall out when I removed the caps. Going back in after the housing had cooled down, it was a much tighter fit and it took awhile to drive the shims in.
Funny, I was actually thinking about how temps would impact this as I read his response. Aluminum is way more sensitive to temps. Maybe warming the aluminum case and putting the shims in the freezer before reassembly would make life a little easier.
 

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HammaMan

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The front diff housing is magnesium for what it's worth. Between freezing the diff and heating the housing may make it much easier to manage. Magnesium's expansion rate is about 20% higher than aluminum. This may end up being a factor in the pumpkin explosions we've seen especially in colder temperatures where the magnesium housing is putting itself under much more force in freezing temperatures. Cast iron diff housings are substantially less affected by temps.

Ford F-150 Where to get a front Torsen Differential installed in a F150 non Tremor/Raptor? 1708969548707
 

5.0Screw22

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That's great information. So, is the spread limit for the magnesium case still .030" like it is for aluminum?
 

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Sure I can find the part info.

it was just two bags of bearings/races, ring gear bolts, and the carrier.

the previous gen truck should be the same as this. I froze the carrier and had the case inside on the radiator as well. It was tight!
 

SALEEN961

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The front diff housing is magnesium for what it's worth. Between freezing the diff and heating the housing may make it much easier to manage. Magnesium's expansion rate is about 20% higher than aluminum. This may end up being a factor in the pumpkin explosions we've seen especially in colder temperatures where the magnesium housing is putting itself under much more force in freezing temperatures. Cast iron diff housings are substantially less affected by temps.

1708969548707.png
Where did you hear that the housing is magnesium?

AllData lists the front axle for my 2021 as being a cast-aluminum center section with a removable cast-aluminum axle housing tube. I've seen plenty of errors in the official service info before so I wouldn't be surprised to hear that this is incorrect.
 

5.0Screw22

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Sure I can find the part info.

it was just two bags of bearings/races, ring gear bolts, and the carrier.

the previous gen truck should be the same as this. I froze the carrier and had the case inside on the radiator as well. It was tight!
I have those items and the EPS rack bolts. They are TTY, so they are supposed to be replaced after they are removed. I just fee like I am forgetting something.
 

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TheGoatman

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I didn’t take the eps rack out. I only unplugged the electrical per BDS 6” lift kit instruction sheet.

you should be set. Oh and I used Motorcraft gray rtv gasket maker and Mobil 1 75w90
 
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HammaMan

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Where did you hear that the housing is magnesium?

AllData lists the front axle for my 2021 as being a cast-aluminum center section with a removable cast-aluminum axle housing tube. I've seen plenty of errors in the official service info before so I wouldn't be surprised to hear that this is incorrect.
In one of the body detail guides I saw it listed as magnesium. The guide I just pulled up doesn't list a front axle housing material type, only the transfer case and it's magnesium -- there's 3 or 4 gen 14 F150 guides. Google is useless.
 

WhiteLightningnshitshadow

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I spoke those exact words to the service manager, and he told me that it was their policy that a truck could not be in the queue without physically waiting on their lot. I have been working out of town, but I had the idea that I might speak with somebody higher up the food chain who can countermand this madness.
My dumbass dealership tries to pull this shit.

I'm not scheduling an appointment so you can be 5 days late.
 

SALEEN961

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In one of the body detail guides I saw it listed as magnesium. The guide I just pulled up doesn't list a front axle housing material type, only the transfer case and it's magnesium -- there's 3 or 4 gen 14 F150 guides. Google is useless.
Interesting, I know that Ford had a few mistakes in the 2021 e-source books, but Alldata isn't error free either.

The transfer case housing is magnesium from what I can tell, but the front diff cover and cover bolts are steel and not aluminum like you would normally see on a magnesium housing. Based on that I would suspect that the guide was wrong about this specific issue, but I could be mistaken.
 

amschind

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I am only replying to comment on the front diff housing explosions: If you look at 10R80 ratios, the shortest gear ratio is reverse at almost 4.9:1 vs 4.7:1 for 1st. Thus 4L+Reverse+3.73:1 diff is the most torque that an F150 can direct to the wheels, which is probably the reason for so many of the explosions in reverse. Of course, a differential should have a decent margin of safety over that torque load, but clearly a hefty number of them did not.
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