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Where to get a front Torsen Differential installed in a F150 non Tremor/Raptor?

TheGoatman

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Update: bigger dealers CAN do this, smaller dealers can't due to an alignment tool that isn't used enough to justify its cost at small places. Russell Smith in Houston said they could, but they want to have the truck sit on their lot for a month waiting before they work on it. Will continue to shop around.
Were you able to validate this?

I am about to do this at home and don’t see anyone else claiming the eps procedure stated here.
Does the eps need to stay plugged in to avoid that? I’ve seen other subsystems where you unplug airbags MAFs etc and maybe get a code that needs to be cleared. This is new
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HammaMan

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Assuming the truck was completely de-energized, I'm not sure how any module would know if it was unplugged. Issues seem to crop up when certain systems are unplugged with power present and another module considers it missing. With no power present no module should know if another was disconnected and plugged back in.

In early 2022 when I did lift pucks nobody had the software in their alignment machine for 2022s so I had to sit it out for a few months while the 2022 became supported. Dealer aligned w/out issue.
 

TheGoatman

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Whats the best way to do this on a Powerboost?

will removing the neg batt cable do it?
 

HammaMan

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Usually the negative cable is okay for most things but I've seen low powered electronics power from JUST the positive cable because DC can be funky like that. PB has 2 batteries and you have to get them both. Go for the rear under-seat battery first - there is a positive disco in the passenger side kick panel. not sure how it operates, it's some kind of M/F click lock thing. I've seen it, just never had to disconnect it.

The reason the negative is usually the go to is that if there's multiple batteries it's just easier not worry about shorting a device still carrying charge. Going for the positives requires a tad more care in that you don't ground it out. I'll just do a quick wrap with a shop towel and put a nitrile glove over it. The brake circuit is usually a solid system drain option push it enough to engage the lights for 30 seconds. That will be enough to drain any non diode protected circuits.

There should be discharge resistors located on the HV items that will slowly drain them, but never assume a HV cap is discharged if you're going to play with it. The motor inverter has a giant capacitor in it, but also has a discharge resistor. When the 12v system is dead, the HV system cannot energize, but those caps can be potent for an unspecified amount of time. This is within the HV system itself and cannot get to the 12v system.
 

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Popplemer

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I too, am interested in having the Torsen installed. But I'm in NYC suburbs where they're still charging over MSRP for trucks. Needless to say that if any dealer around here would agree to do it I'd need to take out a second mortgage on my house to get it done. I'm hoping somebody has a decent installation experience closer than Houston...perhaps one where costs could be discussed as well.
 

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over 800 this morning at ford performance, for the spool
and MAN they added a bunch of new stuff, my wallet started backing away to hide
 

amschind

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Were you able to validate this?

I am about to do this at home and don’t see anyone else claiming the eps procedure stated here.
Does the eps need to stay plugged in to avoid that? I’ve seen other subsystems where you unplug airbags MAFs etc and maybe get a code that needs to be cleared. This is new
I took mine to a dealer and had them do it. That worked well. You're more than welcome to try whatever you like, and I hope that it works great for you, but I have zero idea how it will turn out.
 

23STX

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I had the dealer install mine since the truck had 4000 miles on it and preferred to keep the warranty. Bought the differential on a 20% sale and used all my points to pay for the install.
I think any dealer can do it, do they want to is a different question.

My dealer had no clue this was even available for an F150 and had to do some investigating on their part, which made me a little nervous…lol.

Eventually they called me back and said it was no problem and they cod easily take care of it.
Truck has 15k miles on it and 4wd has been used almost every single day since November.
 

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Popplemer

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I had the dealer install mine since the truck had 4000 miles on it and preferred to keep the warranty. Bought the differential on a 20% sale and used all my points to pay for the install.
I think any dealer can do it, do they want to is a different question.

My dealer had no clue this was even available for an F150 and had to do some investigating on their part, which made me a little nervous…lol.

Eventually they called me back and said it was no problem and they cod easily take care of it.
Truck has 15k miles on it and 4wd has been used almost every single day since November.
Might i ask what they charged for install? Ball park?
 

5.0Screw22

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FWIW, late last year Eaton announced that it was releasing a new Truetrac for the F150 Super 8.8 rear differential (part # 917A739) and a Truetrac for the 8.8" front differential (part # 917A738) as well. I have seen these listed for sale by some of the larger parts vendors online with a delivery date in late February. This may be helpful if you prefer a Truetrac over a Torsen. Both are very good differentials. It is good to have choices.

Also, I have not been able to find any information about any special tools for the realignment of the EPS after removal for the 21+ trucks. I know in the previous generation if you replaced an EPS, you would just run PMI on the new module and then adjust the tow (get an aligment). It did not require any special tools.
 
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23STX

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Might i ask what they charged for install? Ball park?
Sorry for the late reply. If I remember correctly I was quoted $1200 which the dealer said was the standard diff swap fee. I ended up paying half of that because I used points.
 

Popplemer

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Sorry for the late reply. If I remember correctly I was quoted $1200 which the dealer said was the standard diff swap fee. I ended up paying half of that because I used points.
So I can expect it to cost 2k for parts and install. Thanks brother. Not terrible. Now to find a place that can do it...
 

TheGoatman

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So I wanted to circle back.
everything seemed to go well.
I unplugged the steering module at the beginning and plugged it back in at the end and I have no lights or errors.

as for the diff I used the stock shims and landed on a 0.12” backlash, within spec. FYI you need a case spreader to do this job. Idk how you’d do it without one. All in all it’s doable.
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