Replaced my battery with an H8. My observations:

[Snakebitten]

Battery threads are now all the rage!

Who would have ever thought that a lead acid 12V battery could warrant so much conversation in the 21st century?

Those that are a bit outraged at needing to give the dang thing more than a nod, on their Gen14 F150, probably have never owned one of the MANY vehicles that have always required 12V nursing?

C-tek is well regarded manufacturer of "smart" battery maintainers and at least one fancy pants automotive manufacturers sells them rebranded with their Brand proudly displayed on it. Think about that for a moment.

Yeah, I have one. And I learned pretty quickly, a few years ago, on those forums it's just accepted that you need one to own one. Heck, I think it's an honored ritual to plug your toy in between weekend rides.
(By the way, they are worth every ounce of pampering, in my humble opinion. They return on the investment exponentially, as they allow you to flog them mercilessly without flinching)

So I just tell myself that my latest F150 has crossed over whatever that threshold is that has now ushered it into the realm of my motorcycles and 2-seat grin machines. A touch of temperamental has been added to the overall engineering recipe?

Hey, I'm old. I don't have enough time left to fret over it. As long as it's ONLY the 12V AGM lump under the hood that I have to fuss about, I consider myself lucky!

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[Spidergears]

You've got a couple of interesting finds....

After reading the Interstate Battery document, I have just learned that I am not charging my battery properly - I did not put on safety glasses as instructed. Does this mean that I ruined my new battery?

Kidding aside, I noticed a few things. First, the Interstate Battery document and the Ford document are at odds with each other. The Interstate Battery document instructs to remove the negative cable and connect the charger directly to the battery terminal. Ford instructs not to connect to the battery negative terminal, but to leave the terminal on and to connect the charger to an alternate vehicle ground.

I can't give Interstate a hard time though, because their document is a pretty good piece of information. But it is generic, as it has to be. Obviously, the Ford document is much more specific (and a great find, by the way!). I would also suggest that there is a big difference between a battery charger and a battery maintainer. You can cook a battery by leaving a full-blown charger on it indefinitely, whereas a battery maintainer is designed to do exactly that. A lot of modern battery chargers are so-called "smart chargers" that are capable of conducting the initial charge to bring the battery up to full, but then goes into a "float" state, monitoring the needs of the battery and only comes on when needed, i.e. "maintenance mode". I can see where there can be confusion or misunderstanding on this point, because in the need of expediency, sometimes that difference is not specified and just the generic term "charger" is used - I know I'm guilty of that. (A lot of people also call a maintainer a "battery tender". Personally, I don't like using that term because it is also the name brand of an actual battery charger product.) And regarding this point, I get the strong impression that the thrust of the Interstate Battery document is how to actually charge a battery, rather than maintain /charge a battery.

As for my specific circumstances, I use a "smart charger" /maintainer, and the negative is connected to the body and not the battery terminal.

EDIT: My charger does not automatically detect the type of battery as you suggest the Interstate Battery document warns against, but rather requires you to manually select the battery type. Brand: NOCO.

Yeah, mine is an old die hard maintainer. It doesn’t let you select the battery type, but claims to support and auto-detect agm batteries. It’s only 3a, but I’m guessing it will work fine.

 

[FirstFord]

Battery threads are now all the rage!

Who would have ever thought that a lead acid 12V battery could warrant so much conversation in the 21st century?

Those that are a bit outraged at needing to give the dang thing more than a nod, on their Gen14 F150, probably have never owned one of the MANY vehicles that have always required 12V nursing?

C-tek is well regarded manufacturer of "smart" battery maintainers and at least one fancy pants automotive manufacturers sells them rebranded with their Brand proudly displayed on it. Think about that for a moment.

Yeah, I have one. And I learned pretty quickly, a few years ago, on those forums it's just accepted that you need one to own one. Heck, I think it's an honored ritual to plug your toy in between weekend rides.
(By the way, they are worth every ounce of pampering, in my humble opinion. They return on the investment exponentially, as they allow you to flog them mercilessly without flinching)

So I just tell myself that my latest F150 has crossed over whatever that threshold is that has now ushered it into the realm of my motorcycles and 2-seat grin machines. A touch of temperamental has been added to the overall engineering recipe?

Hey, I'm old. I don't have enough time left to fret over it. As long as it's ONLY the 12V AGM lump under the hood that I have to fuss about, I consider myself lucky!

Snake, I have long admired your writing skills - you have a terrific ability to express yourself!

I also have some "toys" that are not driven regularly. They are on smart battery maintainers, and have been for many, many years. However, I put the toys in a completely different category - because of the very fact that they are toys, and are not expected to be driven regularly, I don't give using a battery maintainer a second thought. The truck, although (mostly) not used daily, I do not view the same way. At all. Maybe I have just compartmentalized the subject... But I think one of the larger contributors to my attitude is the fact that I have never owned a vehicle this technologically advanced - not even close. And I am still adapting. I long for the days where I could treat my '22 F-150 like all of the other trucks that I have had - when I need it, I get the keys and GO! I never had to fool with a battery maintainer with any of them. Perhaps it will prove to be a futile effort, but I am in hopes that upgrading to an H8 battery size will get some of that back...

 

[Spidergears]

I mounted a NOCO Genius 10 in front of my truck in my garage. I ran an extension cable in some wire loom from the battery, across the radiator shroud, down behind the grille and shutter and popped it through the rubber boot at the driver's side tow hook. I keep it plugged in and before I start it I unplug it and slide the connector behind the rubber boot, although if it's nice out I just leave it exposed since it doesn't really hang out much. To prevent myself from backing out with it still plugged in, I put a Post-it note on the steering wheel to remind me to unplug it.

As for the bluetooth battery monitor, I think I am using the same one as Snakebitten. In fact, if I remember correctly, one of his posts convinced me to give it a try. So far I am really happy with it and it's nice being able to monitor the condition of the battery without having to pop the hood.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MT4583U?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

While this setup makes it nice to know I will always have a fully charged battery with the ability to remotely monitor the SOC, I still have a bad taste in my mouth that I had to go to such lengths for a new vehicle. I don't drive my truck much at all, and when I do it's only short trips. For me it's almost a necessity if I want to be able to use Ford Pass to remote start or have other features like approach lighting.

This morning I unplugged it and I plan to keep it unplugged to see how low the SOC goes until I get it inspected next month. By then it should be pretty low and I am going to ask the dealer to check the battery for the second time but I have a feeling it will test "OK". In March I am planning on taking the truck to the airport for a week and a half vacation and want to make sure it's not going to leave my family stranded (I can't believe I just typed that regarding a new vehicle).

I briefly considered just biting the bullet and buying a new H8 battery, but I am stubborn and can't imagine spending more money on something that should have been more than adequate from the factory. I also have a feeling that eventually the problem will rear it's ugly head even with a bigger battery.

Considering that every other thread on here, and other forums is battery related, maybe eventually there will be a recall, or a class action lawsuit.........both of which I am betting will never happen.

That’s a pretty swank setup. And the way u have the Noco setup,, seems like the bms should register the charge.

Im sure most have seen this video, but it’s a good one.

One of the things I noticed in that video was the truck appeared to be drawing 8-10 amps even when it was off. Is that what your bt battery monitor shows @Blue22 / @Snakebitten ?

 

[Blue22]

That’s a pretty swank setup. And the way u have the Noco setup,, seems like the bms should register the charge.

Im sure most have seen this video, but it’s a good one.

One of the things I noticed in that video was the truck appeared to be drawing 8-10 amps even when it was off. Is that what your bt battery monitor shows @Blue22 / @Snakebitten ?

I just checked my battery monitor and here's what it shows after being unplugged since last night at 9pm. After I unplugged it, it was sitting at around 12.65 volts and just now, 15 hours later it's at 12.51 volts. Not sure if that's a normal voltage draw down but looking at the second picture I attached, the line is straight and steady from midnight to now. The third picture is from the last 7 days and you can see the Noco at work except for the couple of times I drove it when the voltage dropped.

 

[PPK]

This is what i use to charge / float my battery. If the battery has been in a low state of charge, but still good, you may need a bump in voltage to get the plates healthy again.

NONE of the battery chargers.. are going to be perfect. You have to correct for temperature. They don't. With this power supply you can put the right charging / floating voltage, temperature corrected and also see how many amps are flowing. A 5 amp charger is not fast. but on an AGM it will give you a lot of margin.. unless the battery is flat dead, but good. in that case i use two of these for 10 amps.. the low impedance of the AGM requires higher amps to get the low cell alive again.

Why the H6 does not last long.. i think probably the start / stop. a battery has only so many heavy lifts (starts) in it. and on top of that the 10 sp auto is taking 25 amps to keep the pump running. I think you just go with as large a battery (H8) and go on.

 

[PB2021]

Many reported changing factory SOC parameter to something higher than 80% with some as high as 95% (don’t have forescan so I’m not sure if 100% is even an option). I’ve not found any reporting issues having done so and many if not all report it resolved their battery save mode issues. I’ve read several AGM battery manufacturer websites and the Ford related doc linked here by Spidergears (thanks for posting) and I’m left with 2 conclusions.
Firstly every AGM manufacturer site I’ve read recommends keeping an AGM fully charged to achieve its longest life cycle. In fact some sites specify to avoid repeated partial charging which it’s reported will eventually limit charge capacity to the level of those partial charges. This would suggest the factory charge profile may in fact be limiting the capacity of our batteries over time regardless of the initial amp rating.
Secondly what I take from the Ford doc is that the charge profile seems to exist to save fuel by lessening alternator torque demands (Smart Regen Charging page 11 of 16) where the range of 80% SOC is specifically mentioned. Although it does not say charging absolutely stops the language suggests a lowering of voltage. This is something I can see using MX+ and software. Whether full ICE only or hybrid I’m left with the opinion the 80% SOC setting prioritizes fuel saving over all else. I regularly charge our truck but for the minor fuel savings at the price of general convenience I’m wondering if upping the SOC setting like others might not be a better route.

 

[PPK]

So what do y’all use to charge your batteries?

I was just reading up on charging mine the past few days. Ran across this link. I warns against using smart chargers to detect battery types.

This was a little interesting as well. Looks like it was dated before our generation of vehicles, but I’m guessing its still applicable.

Also, @PPK I like the look of you obd dashboards. Would you be willing to export and share?

@Snakebitten - what bt voltmeter do you use?

Export... i am using Fusion.. on IOS.. on that app.. they are called "dashboards" will that work?

 

[Brad34]

C-tek is well regarded manufacturer of "smart" battery maintainers and at least one fancy pants automotive manufacturers sells them rebranded with their Brand proudly displayed on it. Think about that for a moment.

Hey that looks pretty familiar...

I have a CTEK also.

 

[Spidergears]

Export... i am using Fusion.. on IOS.. on that app.. they are called "dashboards" will that work?

If you have any user defined pids on your dashboards, it would be appreciated to include those as well in the export. But otherwise, sounds right. Thanks!

 

[FirstFord]

Secondly what I take from the Ford doc is that the charge profile seems to exist to save fuel by lessening alternator torque demands (Smart Regen Charging page 11 of 16) where the range of 80% SOC is specifically mentioned.

That was the EXACT same conclusion I came to!

 

[Spidergears]

NONE of the battery chargers.. are going to be perfect. You have to correct for temperature. They don't. With this power supply you can put the right charging / floating voltage, temperature corrected and also see how many amps are flowing.

Sure, nothing is perfect, especially the charging system on these trucks it seems . I wonder if it accounts for all of these corrections.

But, some chargers do seem to account for some of this like temp. The Noco claims it does..

 

[PPK]

Sure, nothing is perfect, especially the charging system on these trucks it seems . I wonder if it accounts for all of these corrections.

But, some chargers do seem to account for some of this like temp. The Noco claims it does..

Expensive. With the DC bench supply you can charge from zero to sixty volts.. milliamperes to 5 amps. it was $55 when i bought it. I would much rather see the actual volts and amps (display with numbers) so i know where i am with $200 battery. Or when giving a button cell a bump so it will open garage door. I do see the product says it corrects for thermal temperature.. a proper charger has thermo-couple you put on the middle cell somewhere. I just put my hand on the battery to judge.

Then again.. bench supply it is cheaper.. but not more simple.

 

[Snakebitten]

Hey that looks pretty familiar...

I have a CTEK also.

Well there you go.
Ford has indeed joined the "You might need our battery charger/maintainer if you buy certain vehicles with The Blue Oval"

And it is no doubt a C-tek.

I know everyone is going to frown considering their F150 needing battery pampering like their Porsche, but I can't ignore my truck has MORE horsepower per liter (92 vs 122) and 3 times the torque!

 

[Walter Townsend]

OK so had the truck at the dealers to replace the broken dash vent louvers under warranty that were broken when we got the truck, there was three on the dash and one on the console., while there had them check the charging system and replace the battery with the H8 I had picked up. Got there at 9:30 and left about 4:30.

Battery blanket is on back order for a few months, but since the old H6 blanket was chewed up on one end by a squirrel making a nest had them wrap the battery as best they could with what was left and will deal with it when the replacement arrives.

Looking back through the service history while the truck was with it's previous owner shows the original battery was replaced Dec 29, 2022, so this battery was only about Nine months old when I got the truck in August.

First thing I noticed about this swap is that the battery is now showing about 13.58 Volts for the drive home from Trail, charging system check was 14.35 Volts according to tech, not the 15+ volts of charging that the H6 battery was showing all the time the truck was running. H6 battery showed 56% SOC when I hooked it to the charger when I got it back home.

Truck has been parked for about 3 hours and battery shows 12.98 Volts, 100% SOC. Old battery best we could get was 12.56 Volts dropping over the week to just under 12 Volts.

Second observation is that dealer missed hooking up a wire or two putting the dash back together and now the Pro Power system is not working! Oh well, another couple hour trip to the dealer to get the Pro Power hooked back up.

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