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Replaced my battery with an H8. My observations:

Snakebitten

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Rats on the ProPower snafu. 🤨

It's why I dread leaving my keys with them.
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Walter Townsend

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Rats on the ProPower snafu. 🤨

It's why I dread leaving my keys with them.
When I stuck my head in the shop door, the dash was just about totally ripped apart to replace the vent clips, and tech had the complete sync screen cluster on the bench replacing the two vents on it.

https://www.oempartscenter.ca/oem-p...OwGHU1kf9WFVWw3MWbVKnXb0BMjKMmjo2nNGThEVN1_ME

9, 11, and 10 on the parts breakdown were broken and one on the console. The little knobs that direct the airflow had been knocked off when the dealership staff was using the truck as there PERK drive.

Fortunately, they warrantied the replacement and will warranty the Pro Power fix, but means driving 1-1/2 hours plus or minus depending on winter road conditions to get there, plus the same to get back, then there is the time spent sitting around waiting for them to fix it.
 

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mau47

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M.R.F.O.R.D.

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It's it normal with the clore pl2320 at 20 amps it's charging the truck at 15.30 volts? When I charge at 10 amps it's about at 14.8 volts. It -3 F right now.
 
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Gros Ventre

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My truck is working just fine out here in Western Wyoming. Been through two Wyoming winters and starting the third one. Did replace the battery about 4 months after delivery. Put in a new, catalog off the shelf NAPA AGM battery, and not a peep since out of the truck. I've followed these discussions on batteries. My leap into these technology wrapped trucks was from a 92 Suburban with a very early generation computer type system. So it's been an education. Have a lot of experience with flooded cell lead acid batteries from my Submarine world career. I have formed the opinion that many are looking at the battery problems the wrong way. Specifically, looking at the battery from the truck's computer programming into the battery instead of looking from the battery outward into the truck. From my perspective (& the experience of replacing my OEM battery w/a stock one) Ford somehow delivered a whole bunch of trucks with defective batteries. I now think that the lead alloy used in their batteries was off the normal alloy. I've taken to going out and taking a voltage reading each morning. I think it important to keep in mind that the truck computer is on virtually all the time. How else would the truck recognize your key fob as you walk up. What I see typically is about 12.80VDC a day after shutdown and then a gradual loss in voltage of about 0.05VDC day to day. Unless you disconnect your batteries I think this is the "new normal." It is certainly possible that a digit could be dropped when installing software so other things can pop up... but there is nothing wrong with a very slight loss in voltage day to day of engine off operations. I call that engine off because the computer system is still live in there, even if at a very low current consumption. One of the things I noted about the Escape Hybrid is that it has a traction battery disconnect, a relay that its 12v battery has to close to start the engine. Since that traction battery is the starting energy for the engine, Ford chose to design in a protection for it. Still, batteries will have a self discharge rate if left standing. Typical lead acid batteries have a 2%/week or so rate. Even if left open circuited a lead acid battery will lose some charge day by day. At the end of the day, when I sought out engineering info the value of 12.69VDC came up as the theoretical fully charged voltage for a lead acid battery. That appears to be what Ford has programmed calling it 80%. So where do we go? I believe most people, when they get the first peep out of the OEM battery should just go put in a non-Ford battery. I believe the resetting of the full charge point higher than 80% is not a good idea since these AGM batteries are more susceptible to over charging damage. Like I said, my replacement, non-Ford, battery hasn't peeped once in two Wyoming winters. Think about looking out into the truck from the battery instead of looking inward toward the battery from the programming.
 
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SilverPigeon

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Do you happen to know the part numbers for the anderson power stuff you got? I see tons of options from them and having a hard time pinpointing what I should get. I want to do a similar setup for myself.
Hi Michael, I got all my Anderson connectors from a local electronics shop. Because some of them might be used for higher current (e.g. power supply during FDRS updates) I went with them all being 50A with 8 AWG wire terminals. Something like this on Amazon US (voltage is irrelevant in an automotive context): https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-SB50-Connector-Amps-Housing/dp/B07CHBD29G/ref=sr_1_15?crid=23QAXLR0HAB24&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Kd6BqGrKiZkiKcEUwcCzfrnWk9zZ61feNP8YBHZoGcsDeKcRGM7TaE0EwoSPFMICv-dilH0XrOKY_ywx1k8v_3m2uP-paO4H2W7dyfnHluvHS2T7KcE7f6-IEPa4qQtkkezbOHsd9QzC9fOjuD94C1eZ2FqVJxNeM5-dD8Fi8jX-BSxo6PgenDDTPmY1Sal7ELmAQOeUKWpSjaz_8-UGzLVbrvFF4c7RuuTuIxkPTAJbQfT0e4aX4byh71MoCyHuQ0njqaYeySlsF2qMkVsMDKsIQiUXhtupHBOG9pHf6nE.n0blg2LHE8YmThJ0b1qXJbmZ4IRH4xxbSE0tU3IqiRw&dib_tag=se&keywords=anderson+connector&qid=1705877843&sprefix=Anderson+,aps,332&sr=8-15

many auto shops will sell the above sized connector / gauge (SB50, 8 AWG) in pre-made pigtails (eyelets for battery), extension leads and individual or pairs of connectors 🙂
 

mau47

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Hi Michael, I got all my Anderson connectors from a local electronics shop. Because some of them might be used for higher current (e.g. power supply during FDRS updates) I went with them all being 50A with 8 AWG wire terminals. Something like this on Amazon US (voltage is irrelevant in an automotive context): https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-SB50-Connector-Amps-Housing/dp/B07CHBD29G/ref=sr_1_15?crid=23QAXLR0HAB24&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Kd6BqGrKiZkiKcEUwcCzfrnWk9zZ61feNP8YBHZoGcsDeKcRGM7TaE0EwoSPFMICv-dilH0XrOKY_ywx1k8v_3m2uP-paO4H2W7dyfnHluvHS2T7KcE7f6-IEPa4qQtkkezbOHsd9QzC9fOjuD94C1eZ2FqVJxNeM5-dD8Fi8jX-BSxo6PgenDDTPmY1Sal7ELmAQOeUKWpSjaz_8-UGzLVbrvFF4c7RuuTuIxkPTAJbQfT0e4aX4byh71MoCyHuQ0njqaYeySlsF2qMkVsMDKsIQiUXhtupHBOG9pHf6nE.n0blg2LHE8YmThJ0b1qXJbmZ4IRH4xxbSE0tU3IqiRw&dib_tag=se&keywords=anderson+connector&qid=1705877843&sprefix=Anderson+,aps,332&sr=8-15

many auto shops will sell the above sized connector / gauge (SB50, 8 AWG) in pre-made pigtails (eyelets for battery), extension leads and individual or pairs of connectors 🙂
Awesome, thank you for the info. Looks like I can be all in on this for under $40 or so with the wire. I don't mind making the cables myself.
 

Old Hat

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If one puts the maintainer on regularly could it mask a dying battery? So that if you didn't plug it in for what ever reason you could have an issue the next day or 3? That's my concern with daily charger hook up. I only put mine on charge after the truck sat for a week unused. If it can't last a week untended, I'll get a new battery. I'm interested to hear the experts thoughts regarding this daily charging concern.
 

Blue22

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If one puts the maintainer on regularly could it mask a dying battery? So that if you didn't plug it in for what ever reason you could have an issue the next day or 3? That's my concern with daily charger hook up. I only put mine on charge after the truck sat for a week unused. If it can't last a week untended, I'll get a new battery. I'm interested to hear the experts thoughts regarding this daily charging concern.
I have often pondered that same question but didn't want to find out the hard way so I try to keep mine plugged in since I don't drive it much. However, I unplugged it a few days ago as a test and plan to keep it unplugged to see how low the SOC will go. I use a Bluetooth battery monitor to check the voltage remotely so I don't have to pop the hood to check it with a voltmeter. With colder temps, and even less than normal driving, I figured now would be the best time to get a feel for the health of the battery. The main reason for the test is that I will be getting my truck inspected in the next month so I plan on bringing it up to the dealer if I think it needs checked.
 

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I’m headed to the dealer this morning to get an OEM replacement, under warranty. If I start to get the “Remote features disabled to preserve battery” message again I’ll buy a different battery.
 

PB2021

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What Bluetooth battery monitors are people using to keep tabs.
 

Walter Townsend

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So I just had an interesting revelation with regards to my battery issue. I was taking the battery that was removed from the truck a month or so back and putting it away for storage and noticed it was sloshing around inside, which is not correct for an AGM, further inspection revealed that it was not warrantied for stop start usage and looking even closer that it was not even the correct battery, It is a wet cell lead acid not an AGM!

Ford F-150 Replaced my battery with an H8. My observations: IMG_20240122_134831
Ford F-150 Replaced my battery with an H8. My observations: IMG_20240122_134841
 
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FirstFord

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WOW!!! 😵

EDIT - You have inspired me to go look at my old battery and examine it closer....
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