Kodiak
Well-known member
Great! I'll be on the lookout for them and if you hear that have been posted to youtube, let us know!
Sponsored
Sponsored
Pedestrian Sounder Delete (No Codes, Easily Reversible)
- Thread starter xtraman122
- Start date
- Watchers 61
DW2020
Active member
Finally got around to installing the one with the remote control today. Smooth install and great instructions, the hardest part was figuring out where the speaker was hiding. Works great, looking forward to the silence when reversing with the trailer!
One area I diverged from the instructions was to put an inline fuse holder on the positive side (just a personal preference). Downside was it made the fishing the positive wire over to the battery a bit harder, so perhaps better to add it to the harness after the wire was run (vs on the bench).
One area I diverged from the instructions was to put an inline fuse holder on the positive side (just a personal preference). Downside was it made the fishing the positive wire over to the battery a bit harder, so perhaps better to add it to the harness after the wire was run (vs on the bench).
GEM1
Member
Just installed the remote control version today on our'23 Powerboost. Install went smoothly thanks to good directions. This really solves a big problem for me as I bought the truck to tow our travel trailer. Just did not want to try backing in to a spot in a quiet National Forest campground with that incessant bonging ....Thank you Megaohm. Great product!
Ry55
Well-known member
Still waiting on my truck but just ordered the speaker bypass kit and fuel door pin. I had no idea there was a backup alarm to accompany the spaceship noises. Yikes. Thanks for making this an easy day #1 of ownership fix!
Sponsored
Dresdie
Well-known member
Just ordered a standard bypass kit - looking forward to it. Wasnt going to do the speaker delete but, had to remove the speaker altogether to fit a CVF Titan 2 intercooler.
WillB17
Well-known member
Be sure to grab a door pin too! If anyone is interested in a billet fuel door pin and was a previous customer, I will give you free shipping. Just PM me here or from the contact form on the website.
scuba
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2022
- Threads
- 9
- Messages
- 159
- Reaction score
- 73
- Location
- Dallas, Texas
- Vehicles
- '22 F150 Lariat PB Mid Front Bench, 2013 E350 4x4
Plus one for this. Happy customer, easy install.
Sponsored
JMoney17$
Active member
I just installed the version with the remote control last night. Unit looks very robust! Directions were clear. Easy to install. I ended up using some double sided tape and attached the actual device underneath the air intake so it would not be rattling around.
Works as advertised. I purchased the billet gas door pin but will wait to install that until I have a problem I think.
Works as advertised. I purchased the billet gas door pin but will wait to install that until I have a problem I think.
HammaMan
Well-known member
Not sure if you have a good lawyer, but you best keep things protected in trusts and LLCs with no comingling. You're playing in a realm that doesn't bode well.
WillB17
Well-known member
Awesome! I would keep the door pin handy in the truck if that's the case. It wont do you any good sitting at home when it breaks!
fordboost
Member
can someone explain this one a little bit further . What are the pins used for ? . Does the tailgate connector fit in to the speaker plug ? Same pins ?Figured I'd put this into a new thread just for visibility. I know many have wanted to disable the pedestrian sounder (The device making the "groaning" fake engine sound as well as the backup alarm) on the PowerBoost. Full credit goes to PeteRit's post here, I just made some directions for anyone who would like to give it a try themselves.
Obligatory Disclaimer: The pedestrian sounder is obviously a safety device, and is there for a reason. Any modifications you do to your truck are entirely your own responsibility.
With that out of the way, here's the relatively simple process of bypassing the sounder. The best part of this workaround is it's barely 5 minutes to revert the change and put everything back as it was from the factory if you ever need to.
What's needed:
- Tailgate delete connector (Look in your glovebox for the bag of connectors, we're going to use one of them)
- 1x 25w 4ohm Resistor (This will work)
- 2x 1.5mm male connector pins (This kit should work. Has a lot more than you need, but is cheap enough and may come in handy later, I'm sure you could get just the pins somewhere else for cheaper if you wanted.)
- Some scrap 18-20AWG wire (Around 6-8" is all you should need)
- Some shrink tube or tape to seal things up
- A soldering iron
For those not feeling too adventurous, @WillB17 had the entrepreneurial spirit to start selling these. You can purchase one from him here.
Assemble the bypass device:
- Crimp/solder your two pins to some wire and insert them into the connector (These should snap into place when properly inserted and not want to come back out)
- Solder in the resistor to connect the two leads on your pins, here’s what mine looked like
- Clean everything up a bit by securing it all together, I used some shrink tube and will probably add some additional protection later to waterproof it better
Install the bypass device:
- Disconnect your sounder module and plug your resistor setup into the harness that came off of the module
- I’d recommend covering up the connector on the module to keep it clean for potential future use and securing your new connector somewhere so it’s not just dangling around
- You're all done - the sounder will now be completely eliminated and no codes/lights should be present at all. In the event you ever need to put things back, all you need to do is unplug your "bypass device" and plug the sounder back in. No factory wiring is modified at all.
I have a 25w 4.7 ohm resistor. And the tailgate kit. But confused where the pins would go.
