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Is this truck really a 4WD?

HDT05

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hello

please don't flame but I have a genuine query after having my rear axle replaced with the sheared bolt etc......

a couple of days ago, weather was bad and concrete roads are slippery so I put the truck into 4H mode.... I don't do this often but I figured that was appropriate for the weather conditions as it was a bit dicey...

I was shocked to find that turning a corner and accelerating (ie normal driving) meant that the rear loaded up and I got a massive slam from the rear diff between 2nd and 3rd, whilst going INTO the corner meant I got a diff slam front the front end. I'm getting a HUGE trans slam in a downshift from 6th to 5th coming to a stop and it's even worse if it's on a bend.

I have also made the mistake of trying to reverse whilst in this mode and the whole drive train sounds like it wants to explode.

By way of perspective, I've had many full time 4WD vehicles such as X5's and a few mid size trucks that never did this.

The best way I can describe this is its like an LSD with slicks loading up and letting go with a big shudder/thump.

So my question is.... is this normal for a Ford f150 or should I be speaking to my dealer about this?

Cheers
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Oxford_Powerboost

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If you’re in 4Hi in a part time 4WD system, the front and rear axles are mechanically locked. You should not drive it in this mode on high traction surfaces as it causes binding between the axles which need to travel different speeds on turns, but aren’t able to due to being mechanically locked together. It’s hard on your drivetrain and creates these “bangs”, skips, and bumps around turns. Save 4Hi for slippery conditions

Edit: I see you have a lariat. Use 4A! That’s exactly the situation 4A is made for, and it won’t bind in that mode as it is more like a full time system similar to your X5
 

powerboatr

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If you’re in 4Hi in a part time 4WD system, the front and rear axles are mechanically locked. You should not drive it in this mode on high traction surfaces as it causes binding between the axles which need to travel different speeds on turns, but aren’t able to due to being mechanically locked together. It’s hard on your drivetrain and creates these “bangs”, skips, and bumps around turns. Save 4Hi for slippery conditions

Edit: I see you have a lariat. Use 4A! That’s exactly the situation 4A is made for, and it won’t bind in that mode as it is more like a full time system similar to your X5
DITTO
4A is as close as you can get to fulltime 4x4 and be able to drive on hard surfaces
as a note or funny or oddity
i was driving yesterday in 4A and had the power distribution screen up that shows power delivery to the rear and front axles. once coming up to 45 it had about 20% power showing to the front wheels and abut 50 on the rears by the white level of the bar graph
did it a few more times until i got to the doc. i ran 4h on return trip
so i am now curious if the front engagement is smoother than it was in my 16 exp in 4A, it was a bit grabby
 

DarkSkyForever

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Mirroring what others said, your X5 is AWD, 4WD is not the same.

Use 4A for something similar, but be aware that you're going to get worse fuel economy doing so.
 
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LaHerencia

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hello

please don't flame but I have a genuine query after having my rear axle replaced with the sheared bolt etc......

a couple of days ago, weather was bad and concrete roads are slippery so I put the truck into 4H mode.... I don't do this often but I figured that was appropriate for the weather conditions as it was a bit dicey...

I was shocked to find that turning a corner and accelerating (ie normal driving) meant that the rear loaded up and I got a massive slam from the rear diff between 2nd and 3rd, whilst going INTO the corner meant I got a diff slam front the front end. I'm getting a HUGE trans slam in a downshift from 6th to 5th coming to a stop and it's even worse if it's on a bend.

I have also made the mistake of trying to reverse whilst in this mode and the whole drive train sounds like it wants to explode.

By way of perspective, I've had many full time 4WD vehicles such as X5's and a few mid size trucks that never did this.

The best way I can describe this is its like an LSD with slicks loading up and letting go with a big shudder/thump.

So my question is.... is this normal for a Ford f150 or should I be speaking to my dealer about this?

Cheers
I’ve used this many times, 4H I don’t have 4A, and haven’t experienced this. Only use it when it’s actively raining. I have xl with 17” scorpions. In non-4A transfer case, there is no clutch to allow computer to modulate how much torque moves to the front axle. So yes the drive shafts get “equal” power but the axles themselves are open diff unless you have LSD. So power actually only goes to one front wheel and one rear wheel. If one slips, computer brakes that wheel. Maybe that’s what your feeling or maybe the trans needs to re-learn your driving behavior in 4H and that’s why it’s slamming the gears.
 

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OleCuss

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Agree with the others.

If you have it in 4WD? Your front and rear tires have a solid connection and that is a generally good thing if the surface you are on is low-traction but very bad if you have good traction.

The problem is that no matter how well you try your tires will not have exactly the same pressure in all 4 so they don't have the same diameter so some turn a little more rapidly than do others, your tires won't roll through quite the same distance due to turning and such.

There is no differential to allow slip in your transfer case and that means you are going to quickly have a huge amount of tension build up in your drivetrain. If this is not relieved by tire slippage it will eventually be relieved by breakage somewhere.

My F-150 has an electric rear locker. The same problem will happen within the rear axle if you activate the locker on hi-traction city streets.
 
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Beef_Stew

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I truly never understand peoples logic for putting a truck in 4 high on wet roads. I’ve never lost traction in bad conditions unless there been snow/ice on the road.
 

powerboatr

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lol this thread.

https://www.ford.com/support/how-to...gine-and-transmission/drive-with-four-wheels/

Also, the owner's manual is a thing that is helpful for owners.
Two-Speed Automatic 4WD (4A)

This system utilizes an electronically controlled on-demand two-speed transfer case, using various sensory inputs to provide an increased level of performance. This system offers 2H, 4A, 4H and 4L.


this is whats different from y 2016 expy. it was a torque on demand so it would engage if rear slipped in reference to front wheels and would engage, sometimes a bit harsh
but now the engagment is electronically controlled and explains why on the torque or power distrobution view in the ip it shows front wheels receiving power on take off or sporty driving
 

Pedaldude

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I truly never understand peoples logic for putting a truck in 4 high on wet roads. I’ve never lost traction in bad conditions unless there been snow/ice on the road.
4A can give you an edge on wet roads that might have oil or freshly painted markings as well as dry roads on early mornings when there is a sheen of ice from condensation in every shadow. 4H shouldn’t really be used for where you have good traction though and the OPs personal account is exactly why.

It sucks that Ford’s ESOTF transfer case is so damned slow. I used to be able to shift my manual TC Dodge Dakota in half a second or less, so even in slippery snowy conditions; I was usually in 2H.

I lose traction all the time, even on my motorcycles. I have had terrible luck with spills, debris, broken water mains and every once in a while it’s my right foot’s fault.

I also can’t say anything about the 2021+ F-150 in the rain. Since it’s only rained a few times in the last year and I haven’t had to drive in any rain. I do know that the traction control is very OCD and doesn’t allow any slip at all in the dry.
 

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Oxford_Powerboost

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4A can give you an edge on wet roads that might have oil or freshly painted markings as well as dry roads on early mornings when there is a sheen of ice from condensation in every shadow. 4H shouldn’t really be used for where you have good traction though and the OPs personal account is exactly why.

It sucks that Ford’s ESOTF transfer case is so damned slow. I used to be able to shift my manual TC Dodge Dakota in half a second or less, so even in slippery snowy conditions; I was usually in 2H.

I lose traction all the time, even on my motorcycles. I have had terrible luck with spills, debris, broken water mains and every once in a while it’s my right foot’s fault.

I also can’t say anything about the 2021+ F-150 in the rain. Since it’s only rained a few times in the last year and I haven’t had to drive in any rain. I do know that the traction control is very OCD and doesn’t allow any slip at all in the dry.
If you just throw it in 4A you don’t have to wait for anything
 
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Pedaldude

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If you just throw it in 4A you don’t have to wait for anything
Unfortunately, Ford decided that regular cabs wouldn’t get the option of a 4A transfer case, or LED headlights at any cost. So I am stuck having to add both if I want them. My 2001 Lincoln Navigator is can only be in 4A for the street and it’s great in the rain and since it’s never off road I didn’t know how slow the ESOTF is.

Though one interesting thing is the 4X4 always comes on fast when I don’t want it on, when I accidentally shift into Slippery mode instead of Eco mode :/

The 4A part sucks because it isn’t that much more expensive than the regular part-time 4X4 transfer case but it is a lot of work to remove and replace it just for the 4A.

The other silly thing is that the regular cab shortbed with its lighter weight and shorter wheelbase would benefit from the 4A TC more than any of the other configurations.

Ford needs to stop being insecure about offering the better stuff for lower priced trims and configurations. At least when it comes to safety/performance related options like full-time 4X4 and headlights. It’s not the 1950’s when you could get away with having a stripped base model without chrome or seatbelts and if you want the seatbelts you need to pay for the chrome too.
 

powerboatr

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Unfortunately, Ford decided that regular cabs wouldn’t get the option of a 4A transfer case, or LED headlights at any cost. So I am stuck having to add both if I want them. My 2001 Lincoln Navigator is can only be in 4A for the street and it’s great in the rain and since it’s never off road I didn’t know how slow the ESOTF is.

Though one interesting thing is the 4X4 always comes on fast when I don’t want it on, when I accidentally shift into Slippery mode instead of Eco mode :/

The 4A part sucks because it isn’t that much more expensive than the regular part-time 4X4 transfer case but it is a lot of work to remove and replace it just for the 4A.

The other silly thing is that the regular cab shortbed with its lighter weight and shorter wheelbase would benefit from the 4A TC more than any of the other configurations.

Ford needs to stop being insecure about offering the better stuff for lower priced trims and configurations. At least when it comes to safety/performance related options like full-time 4X4 and headlights. It’s not the 1950’s when you could get away with having a stripped base model without chrome or seatbelts and if you want the seatbelts you need to pay for the chrome too.
you know my 16 expedition stayed in 4A almost all the time, really only time it was 2 h was if we did long highway drive in good weather. at the hog lease though 4A was clunky and we left it 4h or 4l if conditions warranted.
my 2022 150 is very smooth and i am really liking how it drives
 

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There’s absolutely no need to use 4x4 on wet roads. Wet concrete or asphalt is not slippery enough to relief internal pressures in a locked up driveline. You would need a central differential for that reason which your truck does not have. Instead, adjust your speed and acceleration accordingly to the road conditions to stay in control.
Save 4x4 for off road conditions or really slippery roads such as in snow or ice. At the end of the day it’s all about being able to stop and maintain directional control, not to get up to speed more rapidly.
Like others have said, use 4A if you think you need to be in 4 wd on paved roads.
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