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NavyChief

NavyChief

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See attached pinouts for the 110 on the back. I'll look for where is goes from there. Assuming you dont have a inverter?
No I don’t have it. I’m actually thinking to mount a 1k inverter wired with its own wiring and solder in wiring on the backside of the console outlet to plug in to the inverter inside the console.
I’ve been working on a tailgate project to have a self contained power source inside the gate similar to the power center in the bed.

 
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NavyChief

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Huge shout out to Jesse as I was looking to route the supplied XM ant he was like open your glove box and take it out real quick and sure enough I had the factory XM ant wiring already there (I was a XM delete truck) I just needed to order an adapter off Amazon to connect.

oh and having 4 cup holders vs 2 is a game changer plus because I don’t have a console shifter I can leave the work surface deployed and use the rear two cup holders while I’m working
 

KTM753

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Awesome thread, thanks for posting. Ballpark amount to do the conversion?
 

Rockman5159

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Ordered the 12” screen kit from infotainment and a console off eBay that had the work surface and got to tearing everything down.
Overall not too difficult to accomplish. I had the XM/Nav delete option so I had to order a new APIM as well.
I ordered some stuff from my dealer to complete the install.
Big shoutout for making such a complete kit infotainment :)

Couple of things to note:

The brackets that hold the center jump seat are the same as the console so don’t order new ones. You will need 4 more of the 10mm bolts to bolt the console as the jump seat has larger bolts holding it down.
Make sure you tell them when your ordering the infotainment package that you have a console as they sent me the lower for a jump seat. Also I did not need the tablet to program any codes as it turned on and worked with everything so I’m going to cancel that as they were back ordered anyway.
This is a very expensive conversion so be prepared to spend some money. To me getting a console and XM was worth it.
I’ve got some trim and the console cover that don’t match but I’m eventually having leather put in so will change it at that time but it doesn’t look too bad.
Also I’ll have to figure out the wiring in the console as it had way more stuff than I had plugs for, I just plugged in the front USB for now.
94476BDC-F169-4FDE-B4F2-C1536D6F44A6.jpeg
A624C3AD-8C8B-48B0-9F18-FED0E16F3155.jpeg
C3FC5CAF-CB00-4677-A02A-6381B17A2BA9.jpeg
8D7335ED-16EA-4EF7-A698-C181A18B724F.jpeg
8EF8A384-91AA-4D4C-ABED-C6BE4400BA5A.jpeg
AEA61A89-8C85-4164-879F-507D08BB4332.jpeg
77A67609-9117-4CEC-89E6-D549E095446D.jpeg


71DBF906-859E-4C85-B208-ABC05FB48A55.jpeg
Nice job! looksreally good
 

nvabill

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Ordered the 12” screen kit from infotainment and a console off eBay that had the work surface and got to tearing everything down.
Overall not too difficult to accomplish. I had the XM/Nav delete option so I had to order a new APIM as well.
I ordered some stuff from my dealer to complete the install.
Big shoutout for making such a complete kit infotainment :)

Couple of things to note:

The brackets that hold the center jump seat are the same as the console so don’t order new ones. You will need 4 more of the 10mm bolts to bolt the console as the jump seat has larger bolts holding it down.
Make sure you tell them when your ordering the infotainment package that you have a console as they sent me the lower for a jump seat. Also I did not need the tablet to program any codes as it turned on and worked with everything so I’m going to cancel that as they were back ordered anyway.
This is a very expensive conversion so be prepared to spend some money. To me getting a console and XM was worth it.
I’ve got some trim and the console cover that don’t match but I’m eventually having leather put in so will change it at that time but it doesn’t look too bad.
Also I’ll have to figure out the wiring in the console as it had way more stuff than I had plugs for, I just plugged in the front USB for now.
94476BDC-F169-4FDE-B4F2-C1536D6F44A6.jpeg
A624C3AD-8C8B-48B0-9F18-FED0E16F3155.jpeg
C3FC5CAF-CB00-4677-A02A-6381B17A2BA9.jpeg
8D7335ED-16EA-4EF7-A698-C181A18B724F.jpeg
8EF8A384-91AA-4D4C-ABED-C6BE4400BA5A.jpeg
AEA61A89-8C85-4164-879F-507D08BB4332.jpeg
77A67609-9117-4CEC-89E6-D549E095446D.jpeg


71DBF906-859E-4C85-B208-ABC05FB48A55.jpeg
Make sure you can still start the truck if your key fob battery goes dead. The console I bought did not have the feature as it had come from a truck that had a keyed start in lieu of a push button. I ended up having to take the antenna out of the jump seat and rewiring it into the console. Either way if you don't plug the console in you will not have this feature.
 


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NavyChief

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Awesome thread, thanks for posting. Ballpark amount to do the conversion?
All in I’m aboUt 5k in this interior project but I’m not done. Still have seats and some color matching to do plus I want the paddle shift steering wheel, push button start and passive entry at some point.

Make sure you can still start the truck if your key fob battery goes dead. The console I bought did not have the feature as it had come from a truck that had a keyed start in lieu of a push button. I ended up having to take the antenna out of the jump seat and rewiring it into the console. Either way if you don't plug the console in you will not have this feature.
I have a standard keyed start so that shouldn’t be an issue. I know the passive att is in the console though as I saw it under the cup holders.
 

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All in I’m aboUt 5k in this interior project but I’m not done. Still have seats and some color matching to do plus I want the paddle shift steering wheel, push button start and passive entry at some point.



I have a standard keyed start so that shouldn’t be an issue. I know the passive att is in the console though as I saw it under the cup holders.
Yep, you should be good to go then.
 

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Make sure you can still start the truck if your key fob battery goes dead. The console I bought did not have the feature as it had come from a truck that had a keyed start in lieu of a push button. I ended up having to take the antenna out of the jump seat and rewiring it into the console. Either way if you don't plug the console in you will not have this
Nice job! looksreally good
Chief, Do you know if this would fit if just the jump seat was removed. I have a 2021 RCSB XL .Thanks
 
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NavyChief

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Yes it’s just removing the jump seat and reusing the brackets. You will need the 4 bolts that attach the console to the brackets and the console version of the hvac panel
 


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Huge shout out to Jesse as I was looking to route the supplied XM ant he was like open your glove box and take it out real quick and sure enough I had the factory XM ant wiring already there (I was a XM delete truck) I just needed to order an adapter off Amazon to connect.

oh and having 4 cup holders vs 2 is a game changer plus because I don’t have a console shifter I can leave the work surface deployed and use the rear two cup holders while I’m working
Hey Jeff, so my new truck is also Nav/XM delete. How hard would it be for me to add XM? Don’t really care about nav. Thanks for any info.
 
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NavyChief

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Hey Jeff, so my new truck is also Nav/XM delete. How hard would it be for me to add XM? Don’t really care about nav. Thanks for any info.
I bought a module from infotainment that came with everything in a module that replaced the one in the center of the dash. I wanted it with the factory antenna and my truck already had the wiring so I just installed the factory antenna.
 

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I bought a module from infotainment that came with everything in a module that replaced the one in the center of the dash. I wanted it with the factory antenna and my truck already had the wiring so I just installed the factory antenna.
10-4, Thanks Chief.

 

 
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