Porpoise Hork
Well-known member
I'll have to do some hunting on the switch to see if I can find a number for it.
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I was running into the same problems. Not sure why they make locating part numbers so difficult.The pn for the drive mode switch is being a bit of a challenge. I found ML3Z-19H540-AA under the Lariat trim From here. The only description is 4X4 and applies to King Ranch, Lariat, Limited, Platinum, Police Responder, Raptor, SSV, Tremor, XL, XLT trims. Not sure if this is even the right switch at all.
Looking on Ebay I found two for the 21+ F150 that have the 4A mode ranging form $65-120. The issue is they both have entirely different part numbers with do not pull up when searching for them from the OEM Parts site or Tasca.
The headlights on my relative early MY22 XLT 302A are LED's. Seem fine to me.I couldn't agree more about the headlights. Driving on the steep, twisting mountain roads where I live at night in the rain really accentuates how much the stock XLT headlights suck.
As far as 4A goes... I don't need 4x4 on asphalt enough to miss it and I don't mind switching 4WD on & off when I do. It seems to work well and does make a huge difference when you're pushing through a heavy rainstorm.
Kind of makes one think about the guy trying to holdup a gun shop using a pocket knife.Where does that article contradict my statement?
Here the article explains the 4A function in the Raptor TC:
The Raptor’s pavement-focused 4Auto mode is specifically engineered around the TOD aspect of the transfer case. “The clutch-based system allows an automatic electronic engagement or disengagement of the front driveline based on an algorithm and what the traction demands are. It'll look for rear slip and that will send torque to the front when it's required. It's primarily there for on-road slippery conditions: rain, sleet, snow, patchy ice,” Lecrone said. “With all the power that's going to the rear end of the truck, it's nice to have an all-wheel-drive setup where on a rainy day, you're not spinning up the rear axle just trying to pull out of a driveway.”
Which is exactly how every Borg Warner TOD transfer case has operated since 1995 in 4A mode.
Though to be more specific, the front wheels and driveline are always engaged in 4A; however, there's no engine torque being supplied, so it feels just like a conventional 4x4 in RWD before the introduction of the Ford IWE or Jeep/Toyota front axle disconnects, where the half shafts and front differential just freewheel.
The big difference between the newer Raptor transfer case and the classic Borg Warner torque on demand transfer case is the method of lock up for 4Hi and 4Lo and it's mentioned several times in the article. The classic TOD uses the wet multiplate clutch pack for locking into the part-time 4X4 4Hi and 4Lo modes, while the Raptor case uses conventional dog clutches like the old school TC in the XL and XLT. The Raptor retains the clutch pack for 4A operation.
If you are driving on pavement, the classic TOD 4A case is just fine. Sand dunes, beaches and rock crawling will favor the part-time transfer case and the newer Raptor case when not in 4A mode. However, Ford was confident enough to equip Tremor with the regular 4A case in its lower option packages. So despite people overheating and smoking the clutch pack only Raptor cases in sand and mud, they know they likely won't run into many problems with even extensive off road use.
Same reason why you would want 4A in the rain, added power to the front wheels, though he explains that he accepts the added tire wear and other drawbacks of doing so with the part-time 4X4. He doesn't say whether he uses it all the time in the rain or just during especially poor conditions. Rain is pretty dynamic and sometimes a light intermittent drizzle can be more challenging than a hard downpour, so maybe he uses it all the time.
I don't use 4H in the rain, mostly because I don't like how it feels. If there are those people who do though, I won't judge them for it.
I also rarely used 4H in my old truck when I was driving in snow or on ice. I actually enjoyed sliding around and losing traction at low speeds in RWD but I could manually shift it into 4H at any moment should I need it. I don't have that same confidence in Ford's ESOF though and would probably just cruise around in 4H in the snow.
As a safety feature, sadly for some it can be the end of their world. Just like people went seatbelt free without worrying and even believing it to be safer to be thrown free of their car. Or the early skepticism of airbags and ABS; while individually, those features may be meaningless to a driver and his own experience. When taken over the millions of vehicles on the road, each of those systems does indeed save lives as well as prevent collisions and property damage.
The paradox however is that as cars become safer, drivers risk more. Which is why I try not to drive at all when it rains here in the desert, we can have weeks and months without rain, so when it does arrive, there's no 4A, traction control or ABS saving some of these drivers or the masonry walls and homes that they drive into when grossly overestimating their traction.
That's why 4X4 vehicles can be more expensive to insure and an interesting case is the Chevy Astro Van and GMC Safari. The Astro had one of the worst safety ratings but also had one of the lowest deaths per million miles driven. The best guess by those interpreting the data was people who drove an Astro realized either consciously or unconsciously that they were driving death traps and adjusted their own driving habits accordingly.
I remember when I first got car insurance, I was given a discount for having a motorcycle endorsement and I even knew two other drivers who had taken motorcycle road tests specifically to get their endorsements without any intention of ever riding a motorcycle again after the road test only for the discount because at that time motorcycle riders were considered safer vehicle operators and the $5 a month savings meant something.
On the transfer case side of things, it likely won't matter much longer, since EV's are going to be taking over. The debate will be over front and rear transaxles or individual hub motors. Most everything done now with expensive mechanical contrivances will be done by software!
Exactly... "LED".The headlights on my relative early MY22 XLT 302A are LED's. Seem fine to me.
Probably not if there’s not a separate part# for the motor on the 4A transfer case, at least that’s the way my 2001 Navigator is which is missing 2H, the motor has the setting but the switch in the dash doesn’t.Do you happen to know if the motor also needs to be replaced if your adding a TOD transfer case to an XLT?
My truck has been excellent in the one heavy monsoon that I was stuck driving in for thirty minutes running the Michelin Primacy at 45PSI. I was ready to go 4H and had my finger poised near the button a few times but never did press it.I couldn't agree more about the headlights. Driving on the steep, twisting mountain roads where I live at night in the rain really accentuates how much the stock XLT headlights suck.
As far as 4A goes... I don't need 4x4 on asphalt enough to miss it and I don't mind switching 4WD on & off when I do. It seems to work well and does make a huge difference when you're pushing through a heavy rainstorm.
I’m not so sure that the “lumens” themselves are my main gripe with halogen as much as the lens distribution.Probably not if there’s not a separate part# for the motor on the 4A transfer case, at least that’s the way my 2001 Navigator is which is missing 2H, the motor has the setting but the switch in the dash doesn’t.
My truck has been excellent in the one heavy monsoon that I was stuck driving in for thirty minutes running the Michelin Primacy at 45PSI. I was ready to go 4H and had my finger poised near the button a few times but never did press it.
But yeah the Edison bulb halogen headlights are miserable and I avoided driving my truck at night. Even the headlights on my 2001 Navigator are better even though they are halogen too.
Any LED headlights have to be better than the stock halogen.
I got the Alpharex 880139 from Stage3 during their Black Friday sale and they are much better. The brights actually work unlike the stock halogen headlights that would only make glare from signs worse without improved forward vision.
Reviving this thread. Did you ever get to upgrading to 4A? I’m thinking this might be my next big mod.One of my projects later this year is to upgrade my truck to have 4A. It can be, and has been done.
You need to get the following:
TOD transfer case
Transfer case control module
4A mode switch
From what I’ve read, the wiring is there. You just need to replace the components. Should cost about $1500 - $2000 in parts.
Life happened and this project has been on the back burner.Reviving this thread. Did you ever get to upgrading to 4A? I’m thinking this might be my next big mod.
Copy that.Life happened and this project has been on the back burner.
There's a handful of us that have done it.Reviving this thread. Did you ever get to upgrading to 4A? I’m thinking this might be my next big mod.
Do you or someone have a good parts list as in part numbers? I’d like to start gathering the parts needed. Thank you sir.There's a handful of us that have done it.