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Has anyone done a regear of a 14th gen yet?

RideATX

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Have a 2021 F-150 XLT 2WD that I put a 6 inch lift and 35 inch tires. Needless to say, it’s a slug now. current gear ratio is 3.31.

I was planning to do a regear, either to 4.11 or 4.56 (thinking some day I may go even bigger with the lift and tires and rather only regear once).

Started calling around and not only do a lot of places say they aren’t willing to do it because the truck is too new and they can’t yet verify the parts. A couple have said they would try though but I’d be responsible for labor of them taking it apart and putting it back together if they can’t do it.

Price quotes I get seem kind of crazy though, in the 3-4K range. Apparently going to from 3.31 to 4.10 or 4.56 will require a new cage (case) and the mechanic said the electronic differential would make things more expensive as well.

I didn’t think he was just taking me for a ride as he actually was trying to steer me away from the regear and suggested I just get it tuned instead - something they don’t do.

Of course with a tune I’d void my whole warranty which isn’t ideal, but I don’t want to keep running on 3.31 for too long and wear out the engine faster. 3-4K is just too much for the regear though especially when no one can say they can actually do it. My other options don’t seem great though - leave it as is and burn out the engine faster with my warranty or void the warranty and save the engine.
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diesel97

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Have a 2021 F-150 XLT 2WD that I put a 6 inch lift and 35 inch tires. Needless to say, it’s a slug now. current gear ratio is 3.31.

I was planning to do a regear, either to 4.11 or 4.56 (thinking some day I may go even bigger with the lift and tires and rather only regear once).

Started calling around and not only do a lot of places say they aren’t willing to do it because the truck is too new and they can’t yet verify the parts. A couple have said they would try though but I’d be responsible for labor of them taking it apart and putting it back together if they can’t do it.

Price quotes I get seem kind of crazy though, in the 3-4K range. Apparently going to from 3.31 to 4.10 or 4.56 will require a new cage (case) and the mechanic said the electronic differential would make things more expensive as well.

I didn’t think he was just taking me for a ride as he actually was trying to steer me away from the regear and suggested I just get it tuned instead - something they don’t do.

Of course with a tune I’d void my whole warranty which isn’t ideal, but I don’t want to keep running on 3.31 for too long and wear out the engine faster. 3-4K is just too much for the regear though especially when no one can say they can actually do it. My other options don’t seem great though - leave it as is and burn out the engine faster with my warranty or void the warranty and save the engine.
https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/35x12-50-and-4-56-4-88-gears.2374/
 
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RideATX

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Thanks, I saw that thread before but the only reply was just someone commenting on the picture of his truck.

Figured it would be better to just start a new thread as I had some specific questions that he wasn’t asking plus It’s been about 6 months since that thread.
 

diesel97

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Thanks, I saw that thread before but the only reply was just someone commenting on the picture of his truck.

Figured it would be better to just start a new thread as I had some specific questions that he wasn’t asking plus It’s been about 6 months since that thread.
Try DM the person that has done it
 

Dsol21

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Have a 2021 F-150 XLT 2WD that I put a 6 inch lift and 35 inch tires. Needless to say, it’s a slug now. current gear ratio is 3.31.

I was planning to do a regear, either to 4.11 or 4.56 (thinking some day I may go even bigger with the lift and tires and rather only regear once).

Started calling around and not only do a lot of places say they aren’t willing to do it because the truck is too new and they can’t yet verify the parts. A couple have said they would try though but I’d be responsible for labor of them taking it apart and putting it back together if they can’t do it.

Price quotes I get seem kind of crazy though, in the 3-4K range. Apparently going to from 3.31 to 4.10 or 4.56 will require a new cage (case) and the mechanic said the electronic differential would make things more expensive as well.

I didn’t think he was just taking me for a ride as he actually was trying to steer me away from the regear and suggested I just get it tuned instead - something they don’t do.

Of course with a tune I’d void my whole warranty which isn’t ideal, but I don’t want to keep running on 3.31 for too long and wear out the engine faster. 3-4K is just too much for the regear though especially when no one can say they can actually do it. My other options don’t seem great though - leave it as is and burn out the engine faster with my warranty or void the warranty and save the engine.
Hello, did you end up going with the re gear?
 

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SRHAGEN

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Use ur tranny lock out 9 and 10. It’s really a 7 spd with 3 OD gears. It should help allot.
 

SRHAGEN

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Use the + and - on the gear shifter push - 3 times and it will not allow the tranny to shift past 7th gear. U have to do it each time u take it out of park.
select shift allows u to change how many active gears are used. This will keep the rpm up and improve power just like regearing . It’s not permanent but sometimes u might want 10th gear to optimize fuel economy.
 

Roscopcoletrain

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Use the + and - on the gear shifter push - 3 times and it will not allow the tranny to shift past 7th gear. U have to do it each time u take it out of park.
select shift allows u to change how many active gears are used. This will keep the rpm up and improve power just like regearing . It’s not permanent but sometimes u might want 10th gear to optimize fuel economy.
It'll help some while moving, less so from a stop.
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