2022 Powerboost "Stop safely now" no start

[Briann252]

I was on a trip to the southwest and in the morning in Gallup New Mexico, I went to start my 2022 Lariat 502a Powerboost using the app on my phone and it would not start. I also tried using my key fob also with no luck. After checking out of a hotel and getting into the truck, I tried to start it and the screen popped up "Stop Safely Now" and the vehicle would not go in to ready mode. I attempted numerous times and had no luck. I finally called roadside assistance and after waiting for over 2 hours to have a tow come, they arrived and I again tried to start the truck with no luck. The truck was brought to the local dealership and I was given a ride to a rental car place. I made it 10 miles down the road and the dealership called telling me that the truck started without issues, is not throwing any codes and is fine.

I went back and got my truck and had no further issues. All I can think is I had about 4 gallons of gas left in the tank and it was 3 degrees outside. I just got back from my local dealership after it's first oil change and they told me that the "stop safely now" alert is either because you are tired or drunk. I found that answer ridiculous as I do not have cameras inside looking at me and the issue was at 8am and would not start to begin with. Wondering if anyone else had issues learned what the cause was.

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[RT21KRH]

I was on a trip to the southwest and in the morning in Gallup New Mexico, I went to start my 2022 Lariat 502a Powerboost using the app on my phone and it would not start. I also tried using my key fob also with no luck. After checking out of a hotel and getting into the truck, I tried to start it and the screen popped up "Stop Safely Now" and the vehicle would not go in to ready mode. I attempted numerous times and had no luck. I finally called roadside assistance and after waiting for over 2 hours to have a tow come, they arrived and I again tried to start the truck with no luck. The truck was brought to the local dealership and I was given a ride to a rental car place. I made it 10 miles down the road and the dealership called telling me that the truck started without issues, is not throwing any codes and is fine.

I went back and got my truck and had no further issues. All I can think is I had about 4 gallons of gas left in the tank and it was 3 degrees outside. I just got back from my local dealership after it's first oil change and they told me that the "stop safely now" alert is either because you are tired or drunk. I found that answer ridiculous as I do not have cameras inside looking at me and the issue was at 8am and would not start to begin with. Wondering if anyone else had issues learned what the cause was.

Well it’s not the gas level at least for me I go down to a few gallons and get the “less than 50 miles to empty” warning. Doubt it’s temperature either. My guess is a software bug in the phone app caused the issue. I always unlock with key and start. If something is haywire I turn on and off or in your case I’d lock and unlock with key. That’s probably all the dealer did did you do that? Start with a phone app… not for me too much to go wrong.

 

[Tosh]

I found some reports on other Ford forums of the "Stop Safely Now" message along with a no-start condition

In one instance it was determined to be caused by frozen BliSS sensors; in another, it was suspected to be a low 12v battery.

In some cases there were DTC's, but not all.

 

[Snakebitten]

There appears to be several potential parameters that can trigger that alert. Including SOC of the Hybrid Battery.
I experienced once, but after the truck had already successfully been in Ready mode.

It was a bit alarming, admittedly, but letting it idle long enough for the Hybrid Battery to reach a "normal" SOC, and then cycling the truck just to make sure that there were no new alerts..... All was well.

11 months and 12,500 miles and haven't experienced any issue since.
I don't have a clue what drew the SOC of the Hybrid battery down into the low 30%.

 

[Briann252]

Well it’s not the gas level at least for me I go down to a few gallons and get the “less than 50 miles to empty” warning. Doubt it’s temperature either. My guess is a software bug in the phone app caused the issue. I always unlock with key and start. If something is haywire I turn on and off or in your case I’d lock and unlock with key. That’s probably all the dealer did did you do that? Start with a phone app… not for me too much to go wrong.

I did not try the lock and unlock. What got me was it was the morning after sitting all night and driving 700 miles the day before I knew that the hybrid battery was good. I will know in the future try that but the alert was frustrating as I was in Gallup and hoping to be in Phoenix by noon, which I didn't leave Gallup until noon but thankfully for the rest of the 4600 mile trip I had no issues,

There appears to be several potential parameters that can trigger that alert. Including SOC of the Hybrid Battery.
I experienced once, but after the truck had already successfully been in Ready mode.

It was a bit alarming, admittedly, but letting it idle long enough for the Hybrid Battery to reach a "normal" SOC, and then cycling the truck just to make sure that there were no new alerts..... All was well.

11 months and 12,500 miles and haven't experienced any issue since.
I don't have a clue what drew the SOC of the Hybrid battery down into the low 30%.

I wish that the truck was running when it did it. I think the most frustrating part was my dealer in MN and the local dealer had no idea what happened and I was frustrated enough that I totally forgot to snap a video of what the truck was doing. Thankfully it was a one time bug and under warranty so roadside assistance took care of the tow bill.

 

[fwunder]

Just happened to me today. Went out to truck, pushed start and got "Stop Safely Now" with no start. Then went to "Full Accessory Mode". Tried the button several times. No go. Got out and tried key fob. No go. Pulled out phone and tried with Ford Pass App. It started right up and I went on my way. Doesn't give warm fuzzies when that kind of thing happens.

 

[Briann252]

Just happened to me today. Went out to truck, pushed start and got "Stop Safely Now" with no start. Then went to "Full Accessory Mode". Tried the button several times. No go. Got out and tried key fob. No go. Pulled out phone and tried with Ford Pass App. It started right up and I went on my way. Doesn't give warm fuzzies when that kind of thing happens.

You were lucky that the app started the truck, I was not so lucky with my wonderful experience.

 

[fwunder]

Really getting into the weeds here:

https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...ers-biggest-fear-facts-and-info-thread.18143/

Interesting that prior to my SSN I had left my key fob in my truck for a couple of days with no running. Also, I walked away from truck with fob before trying start with Ford Pass App successfully. Maybe some kind of system reset when fob walked away?

 

[2023XLPB]

I just experienced a brief issue with this. Drove to the store was inside for a short while. When I came back out to start the truck I got the "Stop Safely Now" message. I tried using the key to turn off and back on, but was getting the same error. Decided to try getting out and locking the doors. Then tried the app to start, and it fortunately started. I am hoping this is a one time issue.

 

[Briann252]

I just experienced a brief issue with this. Drove to the store was inside for a short while. When I came back out to start the truck I got the "Stop Safely Now" message. I tried using the key to turn off and back on, but was getting the same error. Decided to try getting out and locking the doors. Then tried the app to start, and it fortunately started. I am hoping this is a one time issue.

So far mine was a one time issue. Though Yesterday I had the no key fob detected when I was in the truck with the fob in my jacket pocket. Took it out of my pocket and was good to go. Just hoping the electrical gremlins stay away!

 

[HammaMan]

I've put an LFP batt in the truck which uses an external-to-the-vehicle's-system BMS that allows me to watch power flow into and out of the batt. I've found that on remote start (either form) the vehicle drains the 12v system instead of turning on any of its own generation. The LFP allows for the AGM to stay full full though and it may be a logic issue of the truck's BMS. This is the powerboost variant which relies almost entirely on its DC/DC converter and will only turn on the starter generator's generation when the pedal is pushed down. It almost entirely relies on the DC/DC for 12v generation though.

Now while driving / occupied (occupied matters) it will turn on 12v generation instead of draining the 12v. There's also a point where either setting 5 or 6 on the HVAC fan turns on constant generation. Otherwise I've seen it both cycle 12v generation capability and idle it, essentially exercising the 12v batt. The LFP has for all intents and purposes radically changed the 12v system in that its resting voltage is 13.3. The AGMs alone after shutdown rapidly drop to ~12.7. It's hard to get a measure on it as every time the truck is woken up, its amperage draw fluctuates. Its logic is very poor for my use case (pre LFP). Though I could see anyone who enters their vehicle more than 4 times per driving instance run into the same problem with the AGMs just not cutting. They just don't get to a sufficient charge given just how much demand is placed on them w/ the vehicle off.

 

[Snakebitten]

Curious how you can identify the 12V charging current as coming from the DC/DC converter VS the BISG? (I monitor the DD/DC current PID and it's definitely a primary source for charging current)

I know Ford calls it a starter/generator, but I think they call the traditional alternator on the ICE trucks a generator too.

I don't find it hard to believe that the BISG could "generate" current, but I don't understand why/when/if it needs to with the DC/DC converter already designed to BE the 12V charging current source.

 

[HammaMan]

Curious how you can identify the 12V charging current as coming from the DC/DC converter VS the BISG? (I monitor the DD/DC current PID and it's definitely a primary source for charging current)

I know Ford calls it a starter/generator, but I think they call the traditional alternator on the ICE trucks a generator too.

I don't find it hard to believe that the BISG could "generate" current, but I don't understand why/when/if it needs to with the DC/DC converter already designed to BE the 12V charging current source.

When the throttle pedal is pressed ever so slightly, you can hear it engage -- it seems to like to output 15v. The DC/DC is the primary source, but when power is being pulled to power the e-motor for acceleration, if 12v is still being generated it hands it off to the generator. Without tearing apart it's hard to know what it is precisely. It is both motor and generator. I believe it's wholly DC in its operation as an inverter to make it run on AC is likely something they'd want outside of it to replace. Instead it's got a 12v and com lines to it. It handles all but the really low battery starting event where the flywheel unit is used. You can really tell when it's used, it seems to slap the motor to life.

I'm sure the entire logic tree is pretty complex. I could see it taking over if DCDC temp gets too high. When charging an external batt or another vehicle, by pushing the throttle in you'll hear the click and the voltage jump. At points it seems like they're used in parallel. I need to do more data capture with the LFP in-place when it's low as it can really rip some current.

 

[TruckGuy2023]

You were lucky that the app started the truck, I was not so lucky with my wonderful experience.

I had the same no start problem, with the screen saying "stop safely now," and showing the red truck symbol with the exclamation mark. I have a 2023 XLT powerboost, 750 miles, bought new 3 weeks ago. I tried restarting after getting in and out of the vehicle, locking/unlocking doors, using the app, from inside and from outside, etc... With no results. Then called for a tow. I waited an hour for the tow truck. When they called me that they were on the way, I went back to the truck. This time I tried starting with the push button, but also turned the drive mode selector to "sport" immediately after pressing the start button. The truck started up like normal. I had read on a forum while waiting that someone else had tried turning to sport mode and it had worked. Sport mode restricts the car from driving in all electric mode, so perhaps it overrides the no start problem if it's related to the hybrid battery state of charge. So perhaps that is a temporary solution if you get stranded. Hope this helps someone.

 

[TheDIG]

Really getting into the weeds here:

https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...ers-biggest-fear-facts-and-info-thread.18143/

Interesting that prior to my SSN I had left my key fob in my truck for a couple of days with no running. Also, I walked away from truck with fob before trying start with Ford Pass App successfully. Maybe some kind of system reset when fob walked away?

Interesting note about the fob. I NEVER take the fob out of my truck. Its always in there and I lock/unlock using the door code buttons. Would leaving the fob in the truck cause some kind of battery drain? But if that was the case, why would the truck magically start up through the app?

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