Swapping the Lariat rear bumper for the Tremor rear bumper

[5.0Screw22]

I just took mine to a local muffler shop. Cost me $80 to get the last few feet of the cat-back exhaust system cut off, bend some new ones into shape and weld them and the tips on. It took them 45 minutes to do while I waiting in the air conditioned shop. My tips are so close to the rear bumper cut-outs, I feel if the exhaust was held by some hangers like those with a rubber bushing, it will have some play and possible make contact with the bumper itself. In my case, the hangers were welded on with custom brackets they made that do not have any play at all. My tips to not move AT all.

The Ford tailpipes actually have adjustable tips. They are on a ball and socket union, so you can easily center them. You just loosen the bolt, make your adjustments and tighten the bolt. It takes only a minute per side.

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[rugedraw]

The Ford tailpipes actually have adjustable tips. They are on a ball and socket union, so you can easily center them. You just loosen the bolt, make your adjustments and tighten the bolt. It takes only a minute per side.

I have an aftermarket MBRP exhaust with 4" tips, so it had to be modified. I didn't instantly the Tremor dual exhaust system, only the rear bumper end caps.

 

[5.0Screw22]

I modified my Borla system to work with the factory Ford tailpipes. The Borla tailpipes interfered with my rear anti-sway bar. The Ford tailpipes are up and out of the way. Borla should take some notes. This is my muffler after the larger flanges were welded in place.

 

[evoslayer]

This photo shows both bumpers. Look at how the outer corners are supported. In the top photo, notice the black bracket that connects the bumper mount to the lower, outer corner of the bumper. You will also see that is held in place by a button head torx bolt. I ordered them because I did not want to use the taller hex bolt in the lower corner. The button head is much harder to see. Some people have done this without those supports. I prefer to use all of the factory parts.

Were you able to get the part numbers for these bolts?

 

[5.0Screw22]

Were you able to get the part numbers for these bolts?

I could not find the receipt that has those listed. I am sure your Ford dealer can look them up for you. Just find a VIN for a vehicle that uses the dual exhaust bumper and use that to look up the bolts. I looked on one of the online car sites and copied a VIN from there.

 

[21lariatspprt]

I finally got around to mocking up my drivers aide tail pipe and my lines are alot closer then yours it appears. Im stock ride height. Any chance at a quick photo from just above tire looking down at the brake lines?

 

[5.0Screw22]

I finally got around to mocking up my drivers aide tail pipe and my lines are alot closer then yours it appears. Im stock ride height. Any chance at a quick photo from just above tire looking down at the brake lines?

I tried to do that for you, but there is not an "above the tire view". In addition to being lower, it has the Husky wheel well liners, and the ride height sensor is directly in the path of what little view there would would be. I tried to get an angle from below that showed my clearance. Without putting it on a loft, this is probably the best view I can capture.

 

[21lariatspprt]

I tried to do that for you, but there is not an "above the tire view". In addition to being lower, it has the Husky wheel well liners, and the ride height sensor is directly in the path of what little view there would would be. I tried to get an angle from below that showed my clearance. Without putting it on a loft, this is probably the best view I can capture.

First, you rock. Seriously. Appreciate your time! Seems you got plenty of space between those flex lines then. But you have a 8.8 axle, perhaps thats difference for me with the 9.75 axle.

 

[5.0Screw22]

First, you rock. Seriously. Appreciate your time! Seems you got plenty of space between those flex lines then. But you have a 8.8 axle, perhaps thats difference for me with the 9.75 axle.

I did relocate them. They were a lot closer. I tried to document that process earlier in this thread. It took a little trial and error and some zip ties. I had to reroute a few items to make everything tuck in just right.

 

[21lariatspprt]

I did relocate them. They were a lot closer. I tried to document that process earlier in this thread. It took a little trial and error and some zip ties. I had to reroute a few items to make everything tuck in just right.

Apologies, was hoping BM3 had another angle since hes rocking stock suspension and HD axle.. I saw your previous post with loads of deets and pics on your flipped axle setup, well done! Im just trying to figure why my mockup is basically still millimeters away from flex brake lines even with some adjustments already, yet the image BM3 shared appears to have a bit more clearance with same axle, stock setup..so trying to see exactly what he did to clear so i can copy!

 

[waltzy44]

Here's my picture-heavy 2 cents after completing this swap on my 2022 XLT with 6ft box.

Dessert first, here's the finished result:

1. Parts list of everything I bought:
- ML3Z-17906-KAPTM (Unpainted Bumper End Caps)
- ML3Z-15K861-SBPTM (Backup sensor bracket)
- ML3Z-15K861-SAPTM (Backup sensor bracket)
- HL3Z-5260-A (Rear-bumper exhaust hanger)
- GL3Z-5260-B (Rear-bumper exhaust hanger)
- ML3Z-5260-A (Driver's side tailpipe exhaust hanger)
- Flowmaster 3"ID to 2.5"OD reducer cone (part no. R3025)
- Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler (3"->dual 2.5") (part no. 9430462)
- 2x Walker 2.5"ID to 2.5"OD exhaust clamp (part no. 41965)
- 3' length of 3" stainless exhaust pipe
- full cat-back takeoff factory tremor exhaust system

2. The plan:
First things first, I had the new bumper caps painted and I put them on first. Not rocket science, if you're trying to do this yourself and can turn hand tools, you can do this.

Then onto the actual exhaust. The main problems I figured I had were:
A. Converting from the factory 2.75" exhaust to 3" for use with my muffler
B. The takeoff exhaust I had was for a short box (I believe the BAP and tremor only come in short box, so this is a problem any 6ft box would have)

I'm now realizing that I don't have a picture of the tremor take-off exhaust I bought, so here is a beautiful paint re-creation,along with my plans for cutting/fixing these two problems:

So I cut the tail pipes off at the muffler, and cut the resonated/flanged pipe shortly after the resonator.
I then had the flanged-resonator pipe welded to a cut-off section of the flowmaster reducer cone I bought(cut at ~2.75" OD), to increase from 2.75" to 3".
I also had the 2 walker exhaust clamps welded to the cut off section of the factory tail pipes.

So the game-plan was to take the factory resonator/flanged pipe, attach it to the 3' length of 3" stainless exhaust, that stainless exhaust will slip into the flowmaster super 44, then the two tail pipes will slip into the other end of the super 44.

I ended up having to cut the 3' length of stainless down to 33" (how it measured out once the other pieces were on the truck, would likely be different for you depending on where you cut up the factory system and your wheelbase), but otherwise all went according to plan.

For the added exhaust hanger on the drivers side, I had a leftover slip-nut from the bumper swap that I used to hold the side of the exhaust hanger, and used a 10mm rivnut for the top-hole of the hanger, into the frame rail. I picked up some aluminum tape to wrap around the brake lines/electrical lines/axle breather hose, just for piece of mind since the exhaust would be close to them.

Here are some pictures of the finished result:
Tail pipes cut off of the factory tremor exhaust, with walker clamps butt up against where they would eventually be welded

Factory resonated pipe with the cut-off flowmaster reducer, where it would eventually be welded

Full assembled system, starting from the back:

Passenger side tail-pipe

Drivers side tail-pipe

tail pipes going over diff

Bottom-view of muffler

3" stainless piece going into muffler

3" stainless piece going into resonated pipe

factory resonator attaching to cat

Overall happy with how it looks, though it isn't nearly as loud as I would've liked. Still looking at potentially taking out the resonator and just going straight into the super 44 muffler, or swapping for a smaller muffler. Hopefully this helps someone else build up the courage to do the swap, feel free to ask any questions or point out the stupid mistakes I made along the way.

 

[dolsen]

Here's my picture-heavy 2 cents after completing this swap on my 2022 XLT with 6ft box.

Dessert first, here's the finished result:

1. Parts list of everything I bought:
- ML3Z-17906-KAPTM (Unpainted Bumper End Caps)
- ML3Z-15K861-SBPTM (Backup sensor bracket)
- ML3Z-15K861-SAPTM (Backup sensor bracket)
- HL3Z-5260-A (Rear-bumper exhaust hanger)
- GL3Z-5260-B (Rear-bumper exhaust hanger)
- ML3Z-5260-A (Driver's side tailpipe exhaust hanger)
- Flowmaster 3"ID to 2.5"OD reducer cone (part no. R3025)
- Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler (3"->dual 2.5") (part no. 9430462)
- 2x Walker 2.5"ID to 2.5"OD exhaust clamp (part no. 41965)
- 3' length of 3" stainless exhaust pipe
- full cat-back takeoff factory tremor exhaust system

2. The plan:
First things first, I had the new bumper caps painted and I put them on first. Not rocket science, if you're trying to do this yourself and can turn hand tools, you can do this.

Then onto the actual exhaust. The main problems I figured I had were:
A. Converting from the factory 2.75" exhaust to 3" for use with my muffler
B. The takeoff exhaust I had was for a short box (I believe the BAP and tremor only come in short box, so this is a problem any 6ft box would have)

I'm now realizing that I don't have a picture of the tremor take-off exhaust I bought, so here is a beautiful paint re-creation,along with my plans for cutting/fixing these two problems:

So I cut the tail pipes off at the muffler, and cut the resonated/flanged pipe shortly after the resonator.
I then had the flanged-resonator pipe welded to a cut-off section of the flowmaster reducer cone I bought(cut at ~2.75" OD), to increase from 2.75" to 3".
I also had the 2 walker exhaust clamps welded to the cut off section of the factory tail pipes.

So the game-plan was to take the factory resonator/flanged pipe, attach it to the 3' length of 3" stainless exhaust, that stainless exhaust will slip into the flowmaster super 44, then the two tail pipes will slip into the other end of the super 44.

I ended up having to cut the 3' length of stainless down to 33" (how it measured out once the other pieces were on the truck, would likely be different for you depending on where you cut up the factory system and your wheelbase), but otherwise all went according to plan.

For the added exhaust hanger on the drivers side, I had a leftover slip-nut from the bumper swap that I used to hold the side of the exhaust hanger, and used a 10mm rivnut for the top-hole of the hanger, into the frame rail. I picked up some aluminum tape to wrap around the brake lines/electrical lines/axle breather hose, just for piece of mind since the exhaust would be close to them.

Here are some pictures of the finished result:
Tail pipes cut off of the factory tremor exhaust, with walker clamps butt up against where they would eventually be welded

Factory resonated pipe with the cut-off flowmaster reducer, where it would eventually be welded

Full assembled system, starting from the back:

Passenger side tail-pipe

Drivers side tail-pipe

tail pipes going over diff

Bottom-view of muffler

3" stainless piece going into muffler

3" stainless piece going into resonated pipe

factory resonator attaching to cat

Overall happy with how it looks, though it isn't nearly as loud as I would've liked. Still looking at potentially taking out the resonator and just going straight into the super 44 muffler, or swapping for a smaller muffler. Hopefully this helps someone else build up the courage to do the swap, feel free to ask any questions or point out the stupid mistakes I made along the way.

I love that you did this the way you did it. Did you not get the bumper caps reinforcement pieces? I believe there are also brackets that go into the bumper caps that cannot be seen unless you’re under the truck

 

[21lariatspprt]

Here's my picture-heavy 2 cents after completing this swap on my 2022 XLT with 6ft box.

Dessert first, here's the finished result:

1. Parts list of everything I bought:
- ML3Z-17906-KAPTM (Unpainted Bumper End Caps)
- ML3Z-15K861-SBPTM (Backup sensor bracket)
- ML3Z-15K861-SAPTM (Backup sensor bracket)
- HL3Z-5260-A (Rear-bumper exhaust hanger)
- GL3Z-5260-B (Rear-bumper exhaust hanger)
- ML3Z-5260-A (Driver's side tailpipe exhaust hanger)
- Flowmaster 3"ID to 2.5"OD reducer cone (part no. R3025)
- Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler (3"->dual 2.5") (part no. 9430462)
- 2x Walker 2.5"ID to 2.5"OD exhaust clamp (part no. 41965)
- 3' length of 3" stainless exhaust pipe
- full cat-back takeoff factory tremor exhaust system

2. The plan:
First things first, I had the new bumper caps painted and I put them on first. Not rocket science, if you're trying to do this yourself and can turn hand tools, you can do this.

Then onto the actual exhaust. The main problems I figured I had were:
A. Converting from the factory 2.75" exhaust to 3" for use with my muffler
B. The takeoff exhaust I had was for a short box (I believe the BAP and tremor only come in short box, so this is a problem any 6ft box would have)

I'm now realizing that I don't have a picture of the tremor take-off exhaust I bought, so here is a beautiful paint re-creation,along with my plans for cutting/fixing these two problems:

So I cut the tail pipes off at the muffler, and cut the resonated/flanged pipe shortly after the resonator.
I then had the flanged-resonator pipe welded to a cut-off section of the flowmaster reducer cone I bought(cut at ~2.75" OD), to increase from 2.75" to 3".
I also had the 2 walker exhaust clamps welded to the cut off section of the factory tail pipes.

So the game-plan was to take the factory resonator/flanged pipe, attach it to the 3' length of 3" stainless exhaust, that stainless exhaust will slip into the flowmaster super 44, then the two tail pipes will slip into the other end of the super 44.

I ended up having to cut the 3' length of stainless down to 33" (how it measured out once the other pieces were on the truck, would likely be different for you depending on where you cut up the factory system and your wheelbase), but otherwise all went according to plan.

For the added exhaust hanger on the drivers side, I had a leftover slip-nut from the bumper swap that I used to hold the side of the exhaust hanger, and used a 10mm rivnut for the top-hole of the hanger, into the frame rail. I picked up some aluminum tape to wrap around the brake lines/electrical lines/axle breather hose, just for piece of mind since the exhaust would be close to them.

Here are some pictures of the finished result:
Tail pipes cut off of the factory tremor exhaust, with walker clamps butt up against where they would eventually be welded

Factory resonated pipe with the cut-off flowmaster reducer, where it would eventually be welded

Full assembled system, starting from the back:

Passenger side tail-pipe

Drivers side tail-pipe

tail pipes going over diff

Bottom-view of muffler

3" stainless piece going into muffler

3" stainless piece going into resonated pipe

factory resonator attaching to cat

Overall happy with how it looks, though it isn't nearly as loud as I would've liked. Still looking at potentially taking out the resonator and just going straight into the super 44 muffler, or swapping for a smaller muffler. Hopefully this helps someone else build up the courage to do the swap, feel free to ask any questions or point out the stupid mistakes I made along the way.

Nice write up!!! Got a pic or two showing the clearance between your drivers side tail pipe and the rubber brake lines?

 

[waltzy44]

I love that you did this the way you did it. Did you not get the bumper caps reinforcement pieces? I believe there are also brackets that go into the bumper caps that cannot be seen unless you’re under the truck

No I did not. Going into things, after reading this thread, I had full intentions of getting those brackets, but I ended up missing them in my parts order with ford, then once I had everything decided I didn't really need them.

The rearmost exhaust hangers mount off the hitch, so you don't need them for that, and honestly the bumper caps were plenty solid on there own. If someone is going to rear-end me, it'll mess up the bumper caps with/without the extra reinforcement! For just day to day driving around, don't think they added much value.

 

[dolsen]

No I did not. Going into things, after reading this thread, I had full intentions of getting those brackets, but I ended up missing them in my parts order with ford, then once I had everything decided I didn't really need them.

The rearmost exhaust hangers mount off the hitch, so you don't need them for that, and honestly the bumper caps were plenty solid on there own. If someone is going to rear-end me, it'll mess up the bumper caps with/without the extra reinforcement! For just day to day driving around, don't think they added much value.

Understood, thanks!

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