Looking for Recommendations on 30amp 240v adapter

[SRMD]

I use the same adapter for my TT (see below). Is their any way to access the full 7200W for powering more stuff in the travel trailer? I am assuming no, since TT is 120V, which is using one leg of the 240V from the PB

30 Amp Generator to RV Power Adapter,4-Prong 125/250V Male Locking Plug to Run 30A RV Camper Trailer - NEMA L14-30P to TT-30R RV Extension Cord,30 Amp 125V RV Outlet,STW10/3,12-inch https://a.co/d/9YQZtel

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[Snakebitten]

You can always use the RV 30A connector for the RV itself, and then tap the other bank from ProPower using the appropriate 20Amp outlet in the bed.
You would only be leaving about 1200 of the 7200W on the table?

 

[JEB]

From the Amazon listing:

• AC power Splitter cord L14-30P to RV (2)TT-30R 125V/3750W Y Adapter cord, 3 Feet

So as I read this, the splitter gives you two TT-30R connections of 125V & 3750W each.

Mine was purchased Sept. 2022.

-Eric

Unfortunately, reading the specs alone will not confirm whether it Is actually working the way the specs suggest. The only way to know for sure is to plug the adapter in and put loads on each 30A female, one at a time. Then open the wattmeter in Sync and monitor which circuit is supplying the power (A or B). When you switch the loads between the two female ends, the circuit supplying the power should also switch if the adapter is in fact tapping both circuits. However, if you switch female ends and the same circuit continues to supply the power then the adapter is tapping (and splitting) only one circuit and all you are doing is dividing 3600 watts between two female receptIcles.

 

[EricR]

Unfortunately, reading the specs alone will not confirm whether it Is actually working the way the specs suggest. The only way to know for sure is to plug the adapter in and put loads on each 30A female, one at a time. Then open the wattmeter in Sync and monitor which circuit is supplying the power (A or B). When you switch the loads between the two female ends, the circuit supplying the power should also switch if the adapter is in fact tapping both circuits. However, if you switch female ends and the same circuit continues to supply the power then the adapter is tapping (and splitting) only one circuit and all you are doing is dividing 3600 watts between two female receptIcles.

Let's see if I can clarify (sorry for my crappy MS Paint graphics).

Also, please accept my apologies if you already know all of this. If so, my hope is it will help someone else.

GENERAL

This is the L14-30P connector that plugs into the the ProPower 240V outlet, with the 4 pins identified.​

​

Notice there are 2 hot pins, with 120V on each (120V + 120V = 240V).​

This is the TT-30R connector that most RVs with 30A systems plug into, with the 3 pins identified. Notice there is only one hot pin (120V).​

PARKWORLD 60646 SPECIFIC

Using a multimeter, I determined which pins of the L14-30P connector are wired to which sockets of the two TT-30Rs. This is what I found:

G - Ground wire (green)​

W - Neutral wire (blue)​

X - HOT wire 120V - Side A (dark red)​

Y - HOT wire 120V - Side B (red)​

​

The ground wire (G) connects to ground on both of the TT-30Rs.​

The neutral wire (W) connects to neutral on both of the TT-30Rs.​

​

The hot wire 120V - Side A (X) only connects to the TT-30R on the right.​

The hot wire 120V - Side B (Y) only connects to the TT-30R on the left.​

​

The above diagram shows how my Parkworld 60646 will use both sides from the ProPower (A & B) - with the A side powering one TT-30R and the B side powering the other TT-30R.

No need to connect to the truck to know, as the power has to follow the wires.

However, I will gladly double-check it works this way the next time I go out to storage for a well-being visit of our trailer. Assuming I remember the splitter.

Lastly, if I am missing something or have something wrong, correction is always appreciated.

-Eric

 

[JEB]

Let's see if I can clarify (sorry for my crappy MS Paint graphics).

Also, please accept my apologies if you already know all of this. If so, my hope is it will help someone else.

GENERAL

This is the L14-30P connector that plugs into the the ProPower 240V outlet, with the 4 pins identified.​

​

Notice there are 2 hot pins, with 120V on each (120V + 120V = 240V).​

This is the TT-30R connector that most RVs with 30A systems plug into, with the 3 pins identified. Notice there is only one hot pin (120V).​

PARKWORLD 60646 SPECIFIC

Using a multimeter, I determined which pins of the L14-30P connector are wired to which sockets of the two TT-30Rs. This is what I found:

G - Ground wire (green)​

W - Neutral wire (blue)​

X - HOT wire 120V - Side A (dark red)​

Y - HOT wire 120V - Side B (red)​

​

The ground wire (G) connects to ground on both of the TT-30Rs.​

The neutral wire (W) connects to neutral on both of the TT-30Rs.​

​

The hot wire 120V - Side A (X) only connects to the TT-30R on the right.​

The hot wire 120V - Side B (Y) only connects to the TT-30R on the left.​

​

The above diagram shows how my Parkworld 60646 will use both sides from the ProPower (A & B) - with the A side powering one TT-30R and the B side powering the other TT-30R.

No need to connect to the truck to know, as the power has to follow the wires.

However, I will gladly double-check it works this way the next time I go out to storage for a well-being visit of our trailer. Assuming I remember the splitter.

Lastly, if I am missing something or have something wrong, correction is always appreciated.

-Eric

I do know all of this. I am only sharing with you my personal experience. I read the same specs you did. I purchased the same adapter from the same manufacturer. It did not function the way I expected it to, the specs notwithstanding. Maybe I got a bad one. Maybe Parkworld redesigned it in the year between when I purchased mine and you purchased yours. Maybe Parkworld actually meant what they said when they called it a “splitter” (one source split between two destinations). All I’m saying is that it didn’t tap both circuits, and I was able to verify it by monitoring circuit loads and found that “A” was never loaded

An easier way to test this if you don’t feel like going to the storage locker is to get a 30A to 15A adapter and plug that into the 30A ends. They’re relatively easy to come by. I’ve even seen them on the rack at Walmart. Then you can use any household current device, like a blow dryer or a power drill, to put a load on each end and test which circuit is supplying the power.

EDIT: The one scenario not in your schematic is the one I experienced. The adapter was actually a pure splitter. One of the hot pins on the generator plug (“X”) was dead and served only as a place holder to orient the plug. The live one (the ”Y”) was split and ran to both female ends. If you were able to verify continuity that Y ran to Y and X ran to X then you actually managed to find one of the few adapters on the market that does this and Parkworld may have noted their earlier error and redesigned it. Most of the ones I tested, including the Parkworld, had Y on the generator plug (I pick “Y” somewhat arbitrarily because almost all of the adapters I tested, including the Parkworld, tapped the “B” circuit not the “A” circuit) running to X and Y on the female ends and are essentially useless. But I would love to know for sure if Parkworld did fix this. If they did, I’ll buy one and dump the more elaborate two-adapter set up I currently use to tap both circuits.

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