evoslayer
Well-known member
I'm just getting started on the swap as well. It looks like you have the 40a and 30a fuse under the hood for dr / ps seat power. But are missing fuse 38, 40a for seat heat.
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Okay, looks like you've got enough spare fuses to make it work without running wires off of the battery.From top to bottom there are pictures of the under hood fuse box, passenger footwell fuse box, passenger seat connector and the driver seat connector.
I will get the photo of that connector tomorrow when I have a minute but I wanted to check if you had to wire the C315 connector for your project. My seats came with the truck side connectors still in the seats and just cut where they came out of the seats. There were 12 wires ran into the C315 connection that I cannot find on the wiring diagram I bought. I believe they are higher trim level functions I will not need. I was able to find some connections in that connector that were for the power running boards but no other wires were labelled in my version of the wiring diagrams. I am assuming the version I have is for only wires that would belong to my trim level(The site asked for a vin number to generate the file) and that's why the other wires are not labeled?Okay, looks like you've got enough spare fuses to make it work without running wires off of the battery.
Can you take a picture of C265 connector to make sure the pins are present? They should be. C265 is a PITA to get to. Remove passenger kick panel and reach up at the firewall and you'll feel it. It's about the size of a seat connector that you pictured. Need to see the upper portion of the connector from the under hood fuse box.
To power the DSM you'll want the pin for the power driver's seat (40a) on C265. To power the driver's seat you can use the sunroof's from the passenger kick panel (I don't think the XLs have sunroof option??). To power the passenger seat you'll just use the passenger seat's pin on 265.
Here is a picture of C315 I was referring to in my previous reply.Okay, looks like you've got enough spare fuses to make it work without running wires off of the battery.
Can you take a picture of C265 connector to make sure the pins are present? They should be. C265 is a PITA to get to. Remove passenger kick panel and reach up at the firewall and you'll feel it. It's about the size of a seat connector that you pictured. Need to see the upper portion of the connector from the under hood fuse box.
To power the DSM you'll want the pin for the power driver's seat (40a) on C265. To power the driver's seat you can use the sunroof's from the passenger kick panel (I don't think the XLs have sunroof option??). To power the passenger seat you'll just use the passenger seat's pin on 265.
You don't have to do anything with C315 unless you are adding adjustable pedals or steering column.Here is a picture of C315 I was referring to in my previous reply.
C315 is of no utility as stated in the post above. I have power pedals, but 315 only adds 'memory' to them (not to the XLT as it'd need position feedback and control run to the DSM). My truck is blue sticker -- the pedals have remained against the firewall from day 1.Here is a picture of C315 I was referring to in my previous reply.
Here’s the photo of C265.C315 is of no utility as stated in the post above. I have power pedals, but 315 only adds 'memory' to them (not to the XLT as it'd need position feedback and control run to the DSM). My truck is blue sticker -- the pedals have remained against the firewall from day 1.
I added wires, if you're looking to swap them, you may still run into issues around tapping into the bus (and the fact you don't have fuses / wires for the DSM -- you can however rearrange some wires / tap others). The harnesses are dependent on upstream harnesses so simply installing them still requires work. You can't simply replace the harness the seats connect to and expect it to work due to dependencies.
An option to consider is swapping pins on the DSM / driver seat power wire, and splitting the driver seat power wire from the passenger seat -- just don't put both seats under 'loaded' movement simultaneously. The DSM needs discrete power for fans and heaters requiring you to find another power source for driver seat movement.
Just checking in on this question. If it’s good enough to skip the wires in C315 I’m going to order all the wires and connections to get this done in a week and a half.C315 is of no utility as stated in the post above. I have power pedals, but 315 only adds 'memory' to them (not to the XLT as it'd need position feedback and control run to the DSM). My truck is blue sticker -- the pedals have remained against the firewall from day 1.
I added wires, if you're looking to swap them, you may still run into issues around tapping into the bus (and the fact you don't have fuses / wires for the DSM -- you can however rearrange some wires / tap others). The harnesses are dependent on upstream harnesses so simply installing them still requires work. You can't simply replace the harness the seats connect to and expect it to work due to dependencies.
An option to consider is swapping pins on the DSM / driver seat power wire, and splitting the driver seat power wire from the passenger seat -- just don't put both seats under 'loaded' movement simultaneously. The DSM needs discrete power for fans and heaters requiring you to find another power source for driver seat movement.
I did not connect anything to C315 and I was able to get all the features of my platinum seats working. Heat, cool, memory and massage.Just checking in on this question. If it’s good enough to skip the wires in C315 I’m going to order all the wires and connections to get this done in a week and a half.
C315 has no use for you with what you're doing. It's only use is for moving lariat+ memory pedals, moving the powered steering column, and possibly factory powered running boards (aftermarket are better IMO if you do want them).Just checking in on this question. If it’s good enough to skip the wires in C315 I’m going to order all the wires and connections to get this done in a week and a half.
My understanding is that a 401 is a 302 / whereas the 402 is a 501+ which use the DSM and have completely different harnesses in the truck. You're going to have to run some wires to make it all work. Take a pic of what's under your new driver seat including what's on the bottom of the seat. The area of importance is the front underside -- your phone will be at a 45 degree angle on the floor pointing up at the seat to take this image.Picked up a set of 402a leather seats to replace my factory heated 401a- got them installed and lost the heat function. Looking at adding it back and hopefully gaining the cooled feature I do not see a DSM under the seat, nor did I under my factory seats - does anyone have a pic of what I am looking for?
My understanding is that a 401 is a 302 / whereas the 402 is a 501+ which use the DSM and have completely different harnesses in the truck. You're going to have to run some wires to make it all work. Take a pic of what's under your new driver seat including what's on the bottom of the seat. The area of importance is the front underside -- your phone will be at a 45 degree angle on the floor pointing up at the seat to take this image.
First thing's first, you need to PMI that HVAC control knob w/ FDRS, that's pretty easy assuming you have the cable and subscription. If not you may be able to go the forscan route? GThat is where the good news stops. I have no heat, no cool for the seats, nor do I have AC now, although the AC MAX button will illuminate and the dials illuminate displaying the temp. All I get is fan speed selection and defrost ect. I expect some Forscan changes need to take place and some replacement harnesses installed. At this point it looks like I will need some help on a shopping list and FORSCAN info - any help is greatly appreciated!