Will this idea work to power my house off 7.2 kw Pro Power?

[CLT-PB]

A generator breaker interlock is permissible by code as an alternative to a transfer switch. It does not switch the hots, but it makes it impossible for the generator feed breaker and the main breaker to both be on at the same time. Someone would have to open up the panel and remove the interlock device for backfeeding to be possible, and the kits come with code-required warning stickers.

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[CLT-PB]

Success! I did a test of running my house off the truck (using the dogbone method) and it worked great. I energized all the circuits in my house except the central HVAC (I did run the separate minisplit heat pump we use for our upstairs master, which doesn't draw much). As you can see below, there was PLENTY of power left over. I did not do anything special such as turn off lights in the house - I just left everything like usual. Now, my sump pump wasn't running because the basement is dry, and it's mild out so the minisplit probably wasn't doing much, and I wasn't using any hot water at the time, so I'm sure there would be a bigger load using it in real life, but it's encouraging nonetheless. The house is 2100 square feet and built in the 1930s. Nothing especially efficient about it, except we've switch over to LED lighting.

I MIGHT be able to run the central HVAC if I don't also run the water heater and some other stuff at the same time. The sticker on the AC unit it says it draws 14.7 amps, but the question mark would be the much bigger draw when the system starts up. I don't really know how that works. It says the startup amps (LRA) are 84, but I don't understand why that doesn't trip the 30 amp HVAC breaker.

EDIT: I looked up surge to start an HVAC, and it doesn't look like the truck generator could do it

Worst case, we'll at least have the master suite climate controlled with the mini-split.

 

[Gros Ventre]

Breakers are normally set up with one of three settings, a long time trip, a short time trip or and instantaneous trip. Yours probably was a long time setting in order to let the starting surge play out before tripping the breaker.

 

[Gros Ventre]

A generator breaker interlock is permissible by code as an alternative to a transfer switch. It does not switch the hots, but it makes it impossible for the generator feed breaker and the main breaker to both be on at the same time. Someone would have to open up the panel and remove the interlock device for backfeeding to be possible, and the kits come with code-required warning stickers.

These interlock kits are "UL Approved" and are NEC required if you feed your house thru a main panel input breaker. The input breakers are required to be in a specific location in order for the interlock to line up correctly. As noted these do not switch anything, they just prevent both the main panel input breaker and the generator input breaker being closed at the same time.

 

[dogboye]

Success! I did a test of running my house off the truck (using the dogbone method) and it worked great. I energized all the circuits in my house except the central HVAC (I did run the separate minisplit heat pump we use for our upstairs master, which doesn't draw much). As you can see below, there was PLENTY of power left over. I did not do anything special such as turn off lights in the house - I just left everything like usual. Now, my sump pump wasn't running because the basement is dry, and it's mild out so the minisplit probably wasn't doing much, and I wasn't using any hot water at the time, so I'm sure there would be a bigger load using it in real life, but it's encouraging nonetheless. The house is 2100 square feet and built in the 1930s. Nothing especially efficient about it, except we've switch over to LED lighting.

I MIGHT be able to run the central HVAC if I don't also run the water heater and some other stuff at the same time. The sticker on the AC unit it says it draws 14.7 amps, but the question mark would be the much bigger draw when the system starts up. I don't really know how that works. It says the startup amps (LRA) are 84, but I don't understand why that doesn't trip the 30 amp HVAC breaker.

EDIT: I looked up surge to start an HVAC, and it doesn't look like the truck generator could do it

Worst case, we'll at least have the master suite climate controlled with the mini-split.

Awesome! Thanks for posting of your success. I still haven't gotten off my butt to order the parts I need for making the pigtail. But good to know it worked!

 

[CLT-PB]

Awesome! Thanks for posting of your success. I still haven't gotten off my butt to order the parts I need for making the pigtail. But good to know it worked!

Amazon. No need to get off your butt.

 

[Hullguy]

So I work in the entertainment industry with very large vehicle mounted generators, and this topic comes up all the time. No grounding rod is needed as you are complying with that section by use of the 30amp connector on the truck, and matching cord cap on the cable. How do we know this? As an industry we have representation on the committee that writes that section of code.

You are not using bonded neutral generators like the Powerboost. I used to run the Electrical Department at Boston Garden. Anytime we used the large truck mounted generators for shows we ran the building ground to the generator.

 

[Hullguy]

Success! I did a test of running my house off the truck (using the dogbone method) and it worked great. I energized all the circuits in my house except the central HVAC (I did run the separate minisplit heat pump we use for our upstairs master, which doesn't draw much). As you can see below, there was PLENTY of power left over. I did not do anything special such as turn off lights in the house - I just left everything like usual. Now, my sump pump wasn't running because the basement is dry, and it's mild out so the minisplit probably wasn't doing much, and I wasn't using any hot water at the time, so I'm sure there would be a bigger load using it in real life, but it's encouraging nonetheless. The house is 2100 square feet and built in the 1930s. Nothing especially efficient about it, except we've switch over to LED lighting.

I MIGHT be able to run the central HVAC if I don't also run the water heater and some other stuff at the same time. The sticker on the AC unit it says it draws 14.7 amps, but the question mark would be the much bigger draw when the system starts up. I don't really know how that works. It says the startup amps (LRA) are 84, but I don't understand why that doesn't trip the 30 amp HVAC breaker.

EDIT: I looked up surge to start an HVAC, and it doesn't look like the truck generator could do it

Worst case, we'll at least have the master suite climate controlled with the mini-split.

 

[CLT-PB]

You are not using bonded neutral generators like the Powerboost. I used to run the Electrical Department at Boston Garden. Anytime we used the large truck mounted generators for shows we ran the building ground to the generator.

Awesome. What’s the best show you saw?

 

[Hullguy]

Awesome. What’s the best show you saw?

There were a few that stand out. I was never a big Stones fan until seeing them live. The funniest thing that happened with them was Ronnie Wood picking up cigarette butts off the floor to smoke later.
Lady Gaga shocked me with how good a show she put on.
and there has never been a bad AcDc concert!

 

[MomaxLand]

When considering the dogbone and safety implications, wouldn't it end up being equivalent to the scenario where an old 2-prong receptacle is upgraded to provide ground pin compatibility by putting in a GFCI receptacle and labeling it "no equipment ground"?

 

[Gulfstream]

Success! I did a test of running my house off the truck (using the dogbone method) and it worked great. I energized all the circuits in my house except the central HVAC (I did run the separate minisplit heat pump we use for our upstairs master, which doesn't draw much). As you can see below, there was PLENTY of power left over. I did not do anything special such as turn off lights in the house - I just left everything like usual. Now, my sump pump wasn't running because the basement is dry, and it's mild out so the minisplit probably wasn't doing much, and I wasn't using any hot water at the time, so I'm sure there would be a bigger load using it in real life, but it's encouraging nonetheless. The house is 2100 square feet and built in the 1930s. Nothing especially efficient about it, except we've switch over to LED lighting.

I MIGHT be able to run the central HVAC if I don't also run the water heater and some other stuff at the same time. The sticker on the AC unit it says it draws 14.7 amps, but the question mark would be the much bigger draw when the system starts up. I don't really know how that works. It says the startup amps (LRA) are 84, but I don't understand why that doesn't trip the 30 amp HVAC breaker.

EDIT: I looked up surge to start an HVAC, and it doesn't look like the truck generator could do it

Worst case, we'll at least have the master suite climate controlled with the mini-split.

Maybe you could try a soft starter which will reduce the inrush of current before slowly allowing it to build up until the maximum current has been reached.

I installed this one about a year ago and can power my whole house with a 5 ton central HVAC with the 7.2 kw PB -- using the dogbone method --. This is with propane tankless hot water heaters, propane cooktop, and propane heating if needed, so no heavy electrical load there. Very easy DIY installation:

https://www.microair.net/products/e...115-and-230v-ac-motors?variant=22060231884884

 

[CLT-PB]

When considering the dogbone and safety implications, wouldn't it end up being equivalent to the scenario where an old 2-prong receptacle is upgraded to provide ground pin compatibility by putting in a GFCI receptacle and labeling it "no equipment ground"?

I think that’s right. And in that scenario the gfci still does its job, it just doesn’t provide equipment ground.

 

[m_bt54]

Success! I did a test of running my house off the truck (using the dogbone method) and it worked great. I energized all the circuits in my house except the central HVAC (I did run the separate minisplit heat pump we use for our upstairs master, which doesn't draw much). As you can see below, there was PLENTY of power left over. I did not do anything special such as turn off lights in the house - I just left everything like usual. Now, my sump pump wasn't running because the basement is dry, and it's mild out so the minisplit probably wasn't doing much, and I wasn't using any hot water at the time, so I'm sure there would be a bigger load using it in real life, but it's encouraging nonetheless. The house is 2100 square feet and built in the 1930s. Nothing especially efficient about it, except we've switch over to LED lighting.

I MIGHT be able to run the central HVAC if I don't also run the water heater and some other stuff at the same time. The sticker on the AC unit it says it draws 14.7 amps, but the question mark would be the much bigger draw when the system starts up. I don't really know how that works. It says the startup amps (LRA) are 84, but I don't understand why that doesn't trip the 30 amp HVAC breaker.

EDIT: I looked up surge to start an HVAC, and it doesn't look like the truck generator could do it

Worst case, we'll at least have the master suite climate controlled with the mini-split.

Grab a Micro Air Easy Start for your AC compressor and you should be able to run it no problem. I installed one last fall (didn’t want to break anything during AC season) and it was very easy. Mentioning how quiet it would be starting up under normal operation made it an easy sell to my wife. After installing the difference is very noticeable.

 

[CLT-PB]

I plan to do that. Our hvac is ancient and we’ll probably upgrade soon and go with a heat pump. I wonder if those draw less startup current.

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