ReverendQ
Well-known member
- First Name
- Kevin
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2023
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- 8
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- 188
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- 200
- Location
- SoCal
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- Vehicles
- 2023 F150 XLT PowerBoost 302A Avalanche BAP
- Occupation
- Engineer
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- #1
With all the battery issues of modern vehicles with their varied thirsty loads it’s a bit surprising that nobody on this forum appeared to have tried a hood solar panel. This appears to be one solution for our F150 that are parked outside, used for boondoggling, using WAN/LAN to provide Ford data and retrieve OTA updates, and simply just not driven enough to keep the 12.6VDC batteries charged. Mine is an F150 PowerBoost with the Black Appearance Package (BAP aka Tremor) hood and some modifications that require 12VDC power while the truck is not ON/Ready or in accessory mode i.e. a dual camera dashcam with wireless capabilities in Parking Mode.
After doing a limited amount of research I decided upon the LensunSolar (Lensun Solar?) kit at Ford F-150 4th Gen (2021-Present) Lensun 60W Hood Solar Panel (lensunsolar.com) . I really don’t think there are any other choices and the other manufacturer considered, Cascadia 4x4 did not appear to have a panel for the Gen14 F150.
The following are my tips for installation, some cautions, photos, and very early data from the installation. I am not a paid influencer, Youtuber, etc. I did not get this panel for free. I paid $370.80 for a complete kit that included the panel, MPPT controller, and vinyl underlay. I paid for all the products mentioned in this article too including the tape, sealants, caulk, etc. I am not liable for your installation using these tips. The following is provided as free advice, but keep in mind you get what you pay for
TIP: Make sure the panel is functional before you install it.
Temporarily wire up the MPPT controller to the F150 battery, Ford BMS in-line (negative to frame not battery terminal) is suggested, download, and configure the SolarLifeBT Application (see included instructions), connect the panel to the controller and in full sun observe system operation on the application. The point is to understand that the system is functioning correctly. To realize its performance is beyond what can be explained in this thread. Consult with LensunSolar if you have doubts as to the system operation.
TIP: Use an application like SunCalc to determine the best sun time for the calendar day, sun direction and panel inclination. Move the panel around to provide maximum sun. You may not get the full 60WDC if the sun is not at its apex, your panel not at optimum inclination, and weather (clouds) filtering light. In SoCal, late February with wisping clouds at 2:00 PM I was able to realize about 20WDC.
The well written instructions advised installing it at above 70F degrees ambient, I assume to aid forming the rigid 3mm flat panel to a varying hood geography. TIP: LensunSolar Sales replied quickly to my inquiries as to if the panel could/should pre-formed. They advised it possibly could with heat lamps; I didn’t have heat lamps, but remained concerned that the rigid panel may not be a feasible solution on the BAP hood and proceeded anyway.
While waiting on better weather to complete the panel installation I installed the solar controller and vinyl underlay. The instructions advised using the vinyl underlay mounting it to the hood and the panel to it so that if the panel is removed there is little concern for paint damage. TIP: Use the vinyl and don’t be overly concerned about the crease in the vinyl. If you are, sandwich it between two flat objects with a little weight on the top before installation.
The vinyl installation instructions were helpful and made the installation of the vinyl straightforward. TIP: Use plenty of soapy water on the bottom side of the vinyl since later you will squeegee the water out (squeegee included in kit). A couple videos mentioned using a hair dryer or heat gun to aid in drying and de-creasing. I didn’t and didn’t really see the need for one even with my relatively round hood. The vinyl decal looked pretty good. Some may have considered the vinyl a decorative touch to the BAP hood.
While the vinyl was drying, I mounted the solar controller in the engine bay. The instructions advise mounting the solar controller as close to the battery as possible and shortening the wires. I haven’t yet shortened the wires. I will update this post later when I do. For now, I mounted the controller on top of the fuse box using Velcro so that I can move it later if a better spot or more permeant spot is realized. I also will shorten the wires between the controller and battery then and use wire loom(s). TIP: Use a good double-sided tape or Velcro that can stand engine bay temperatures. I used an industrial Velcro and mounted it to the top of the fuse box.
The MPPT solar controller comes with two power charging circuits. One is for charging the battery and one for an external load i.e. hood light. I capped off my external load wires with liquid electrical tape. I attached red battery charging wire ring terminal to the positive cable at the battery. I attached the black ring terminal to the truck body so the F150 Battery Monitoring Circuit could monitor and control batteries charging. This way the circuit is possibly powering my dash camera (at the footwell fuse panel) added ambient lights, the other and often mysterious loads, and charging the battery.
Keeping in mind that available solar power (source) varies greatly depending on the sun and weather, I may change how I wire the downstream load (sinks) and battery later. I need to determine how effective the solar panel is to load keeping and battery charging or at least slowing battery discharge. I expect it to at least enhance the available power for loads while the truck is not ON/Ready/running and will update this post once completed.
After installing the MPPT solar controller I applied the included double-sided tape to the panel vertically as shown below. LensunSolar supplied plenty of tape and I used almost all of it. Tip: Tape past the corners and then trim, rounding the tape off, using scissors that cut the backed tape but not the panel. This should help with sealing under the panel later. (Don’t pull the backing of the second side of the tape yet!)
TIP: Consider applying the tape horizontally instead of vertically as shown below. This may help with adhesion since most of the bow in the hood is vertical.
The instructions suggested forming a hinge of sorts using masking tape to the aligned panel on vinyl. Tip: Do it and use a bunch of tape. It will still move but this will aid top to bottom alignment when putting the panel down. And put a couple of pieces of painter’s tape down to mark the sides. The panel still can and will wobble so the painter’s tape will help align the sides it as you are dropping it in place for permanent mounting.
Some of the video’s sent by Lensun Solar showed installations just using the tape, even less tape than shown in the pictures above, and some used only SilkaFlex 252 Black adhesive. Tip: Use both in an abundance of caution. The last thing anybody wants is for the panel to fly off into the windshield or cause mayhem. If you use both, apply the adhesive and then pull the tape backing off.
Bringing the panel down to the hood is probably the most intimidating part of the process for most, it was for me. I had my 5’11” son on a step ladder holding it from one side while I was in front making sure it was aligned as we brought it down. Ease it down, take your time, be patient, and place it as close to aligned with the markers as you can. Tip: Don’t press down to adhere the tape until you are sure it is where you want it. If you are careful, you can pull it back up and replace it a few times. Once placed in your alignment markers, press down stating in the center of the panel moving out to the sides first, then top and bottom. Start down the middle of the longer vertical and move out to the sides. If any adhesive comes out use some WD40 to wipe it away.
The instructions say to apply weight to the panel to aid in the tape adhering (and glue setting). Tip: Read the SilkaFlex instructions to understand setting time. If you can, pull your truck into the garage. Cool or use a space heater to keep the temperature around 70F degrees while the adhesive sticks and the panel forms the hood. For weight, I used a 40lb bag of salt and a couple of bags of heavy mulch with some water bottles on top of them. Use what you feel safe with but certainly don’t use anything that your hood cannot support.
The instructions mentioned optionally sealing the panel from wind, water, and dust. Tip: Use a good industrial waterproof and UV resistant black caulk like Aquascape Black Silicone Sealant. You may also consider using SilkFlex here too. Tape around the panel with painters’ tape and apply the outside seal to include the sides of the panel. This may help it to not delaminate. One video on Youtube showed it delaminating, a common industry issue.
Tip: I use my fingers to force caulk into the creases and on the sides of the panel. Take the tape up quickly so you don’t adhere it to the hood/vinyl after it sets.
While the caulk was setting route the solar panel cable under the hood, mount it, and attached it to the MPPT controller. Route the solar panel cable inline with the small trough of sorts as shown below. This should be the center of the hood and enable the cable to route through the opening in the engine bay gasket as necessary.
Route the cable and use the included zip tie mounts on the underside of the hood and over towards the passenger side hood mount, attach it to the hood mount and down to the MPPT controller connection. Complete the panel to MPPT connection. TIP: Do not pull the zip ties tight until the routing is complete. Partially close the hood observing the cable movement. Avoid pinching the cable.
Loom all wires and consider shortening wires between battery and MPPT as recommended. Stuff the wires behind the battery, see previous picture. TIP: Use zip ties to keep wires away from heat and other circuits, especially the inverter on a PowerBoost.
I will be updating this thread with resulting data and operation as time permits.
After doing a limited amount of research I decided upon the LensunSolar (Lensun Solar?) kit at Ford F-150 4th Gen (2021-Present) Lensun 60W Hood Solar Panel (lensunsolar.com) . I really don’t think there are any other choices and the other manufacturer considered, Cascadia 4x4 did not appear to have a panel for the Gen14 F150.
The following are my tips for installation, some cautions, photos, and very early data from the installation. I am not a paid influencer, Youtuber, etc. I did not get this panel for free. I paid $370.80 for a complete kit that included the panel, MPPT controller, and vinyl underlay. I paid for all the products mentioned in this article too including the tape, sealants, caulk, etc. I am not liable for your installation using these tips. The following is provided as free advice, but keep in mind you get what you pay for
TIP: Make sure the panel is functional before you install it.
Temporarily wire up the MPPT controller to the F150 battery, Ford BMS in-line (negative to frame not battery terminal) is suggested, download, and configure the SolarLifeBT Application (see included instructions), connect the panel to the controller and in full sun observe system operation on the application. The point is to understand that the system is functioning correctly. To realize its performance is beyond what can be explained in this thread. Consult with LensunSolar if you have doubts as to the system operation.
TIP: Use an application like SunCalc to determine the best sun time for the calendar day, sun direction and panel inclination. Move the panel around to provide maximum sun. You may not get the full 60WDC if the sun is not at its apex, your panel not at optimum inclination, and weather (clouds) filtering light. In SoCal, late February with wisping clouds at 2:00 PM I was able to realize about 20WDC.
The well written instructions advised installing it at above 70F degrees ambient, I assume to aid forming the rigid 3mm flat panel to a varying hood geography. TIP: LensunSolar Sales replied quickly to my inquiries as to if the panel could/should pre-formed. They advised it possibly could with heat lamps; I didn’t have heat lamps, but remained concerned that the rigid panel may not be a feasible solution on the BAP hood and proceeded anyway.
While waiting on better weather to complete the panel installation I installed the solar controller and vinyl underlay. The instructions advised using the vinyl underlay mounting it to the hood and the panel to it so that if the panel is removed there is little concern for paint damage. TIP: Use the vinyl and don’t be overly concerned about the crease in the vinyl. If you are, sandwich it between two flat objects with a little weight on the top before installation.
The vinyl installation instructions were helpful and made the installation of the vinyl straightforward. TIP: Use plenty of soapy water on the bottom side of the vinyl since later you will squeegee the water out (squeegee included in kit). A couple videos mentioned using a hair dryer or heat gun to aid in drying and de-creasing. I didn’t and didn’t really see the need for one even with my relatively round hood. The vinyl decal looked pretty good. Some may have considered the vinyl a decorative touch to the BAP hood.
While the vinyl was drying, I mounted the solar controller in the engine bay. The instructions advise mounting the solar controller as close to the battery as possible and shortening the wires. I haven’t yet shortened the wires. I will update this post later when I do. For now, I mounted the controller on top of the fuse box using Velcro so that I can move it later if a better spot or more permeant spot is realized. I also will shorten the wires between the controller and battery then and use wire loom(s). TIP: Use a good double-sided tape or Velcro that can stand engine bay temperatures. I used an industrial Velcro and mounted it to the top of the fuse box.
The MPPT solar controller comes with two power charging circuits. One is for charging the battery and one for an external load i.e. hood light. I capped off my external load wires with liquid electrical tape. I attached red battery charging wire ring terminal to the positive cable at the battery. I attached the black ring terminal to the truck body so the F150 Battery Monitoring Circuit could monitor and control batteries charging. This way the circuit is possibly powering my dash camera (at the footwell fuse panel) added ambient lights, the other and often mysterious loads, and charging the battery.
Keeping in mind that available solar power (source) varies greatly depending on the sun and weather, I may change how I wire the downstream load (sinks) and battery later. I need to determine how effective the solar panel is to load keeping and battery charging or at least slowing battery discharge. I expect it to at least enhance the available power for loads while the truck is not ON/Ready/running and will update this post once completed.
After installing the MPPT solar controller I applied the included double-sided tape to the panel vertically as shown below. LensunSolar supplied plenty of tape and I used almost all of it. Tip: Tape past the corners and then trim, rounding the tape off, using scissors that cut the backed tape but not the panel. This should help with sealing under the panel later. (Don’t pull the backing of the second side of the tape yet!)
TIP: Consider applying the tape horizontally instead of vertically as shown below. This may help with adhesion since most of the bow in the hood is vertical.
The instructions suggested forming a hinge of sorts using masking tape to the aligned panel on vinyl. Tip: Do it and use a bunch of tape. It will still move but this will aid top to bottom alignment when putting the panel down. And put a couple of pieces of painter’s tape down to mark the sides. The panel still can and will wobble so the painter’s tape will help align the sides it as you are dropping it in place for permanent mounting.
Some of the video’s sent by Lensun Solar showed installations just using the tape, even less tape than shown in the pictures above, and some used only SilkaFlex 252 Black adhesive. Tip: Use both in an abundance of caution. The last thing anybody wants is for the panel to fly off into the windshield or cause mayhem. If you use both, apply the adhesive and then pull the tape backing off.
Bringing the panel down to the hood is probably the most intimidating part of the process for most, it was for me. I had my 5’11” son on a step ladder holding it from one side while I was in front making sure it was aligned as we brought it down. Ease it down, take your time, be patient, and place it as close to aligned with the markers as you can. Tip: Don’t press down to adhere the tape until you are sure it is where you want it. If you are careful, you can pull it back up and replace it a few times. Once placed in your alignment markers, press down stating in the center of the panel moving out to the sides first, then top and bottom. Start down the middle of the longer vertical and move out to the sides. If any adhesive comes out use some WD40 to wipe it away.
The instructions say to apply weight to the panel to aid in the tape adhering (and glue setting). Tip: Read the SilkaFlex instructions to understand setting time. If you can, pull your truck into the garage. Cool or use a space heater to keep the temperature around 70F degrees while the adhesive sticks and the panel forms the hood. For weight, I used a 40lb bag of salt and a couple of bags of heavy mulch with some water bottles on top of them. Use what you feel safe with but certainly don’t use anything that your hood cannot support.
The instructions mentioned optionally sealing the panel from wind, water, and dust. Tip: Use a good industrial waterproof and UV resistant black caulk like Aquascape Black Silicone Sealant. You may also consider using SilkFlex here too. Tape around the panel with painters’ tape and apply the outside seal to include the sides of the panel. This may help it to not delaminate. One video on Youtube showed it delaminating, a common industry issue.
Tip: I use my fingers to force caulk into the creases and on the sides of the panel. Take the tape up quickly so you don’t adhere it to the hood/vinyl after it sets.
While the caulk was setting route the solar panel cable under the hood, mount it, and attached it to the MPPT controller. Route the solar panel cable inline with the small trough of sorts as shown below. This should be the center of the hood and enable the cable to route through the opening in the engine bay gasket as necessary.
Route the cable and use the included zip tie mounts on the underside of the hood and over towards the passenger side hood mount, attach it to the hood mount and down to the MPPT controller connection. Complete the panel to MPPT connection. TIP: Do not pull the zip ties tight until the routing is complete. Partially close the hood observing the cable movement. Avoid pinching the cable.
Loom all wires and consider shortening wires between battery and MPPT as recommended. Stuff the wires behind the battery, see previous picture. TIP: Use zip ties to keep wires away from heat and other circuits, especially the inverter on a PowerBoost.
I will be updating this thread with resulting data and operation as time permits.
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