JL Audio (rear) speaker upgrade (step by step walkthrough)

[JJSnell]

So been wanting to post this for awhile, but.... life.
(July, '22 PB Platinum B&O Unleashed)

Like many, I'm not happy with the B&O Unleashed system. The rear speakers dont appear to be amplified and the overall sound, especially if you stick your ear down to the rear speaker in the door sounds, I'm sorry, no other word... horrible.

This is an easy step by step to swap the rear door speakers. Its not hard and I would say any novice can do it. Just trying to offer some assistance to others on speakers that work and coinciding adapters.

I opted for the 6.5" JL Audio C2 650x speakers:

The magnet is remarkably larger on the JL Audio speaker:

If you choose the 650x (6 1/2") speaker you will need the Metra adapter ring Part# 82-5605. You will need to break off the little tabs shown in picture

For a clean installation and no wire cutting, you should use the wiring adapter Part# 72-5602. There are many manufacturers with this same part number on Amazon.

Ok, lets get at it!

There are 2 small bolts and 3 small screws to release the rear door panel. Each require 9/32" socket.

Bottom ofthe door panel has 2 screws

Last screw hiding behind this reflector

Now you can use your pry tool or even just your hands to remove clips around the bottom and side of the door panel. Not much pressure is needed. Once they pop loose, pull the bottom of the door panel towards you just a couple of inches. Then the entire panel can be lifted up and off the door.

There are four connections from the door to the door panel, I only removed three; (I should have taken pictures but did not. Sorry.) I left the door handle connection intact.

The B&O stock speaker connects between the door body and the door panel. The JL Audio connects inside the door shell, so you have to route the wire (and adapter) back into the door shell. Making sure to keep tight as to stay clear of windows up and down movement.

The #8 screws that came with the JL Audio speakers were too long and bottomed out against the door shell. I opted for thicker #10 screws with 1/2" in length. Four screws held the speaker very tight against the shell. Hard to see but I also Gorilla double sticky taped a ring around the speaker. (Optional and not necessary)

Once all was secured and in place I reconnected the wiring harnesses I removed, placed the door panel back into place. I tested the windows movement up and down and it cleared the new speaker wire with no issues. I then replaced the 2 bolts and 3 screws to secure the panel in place.

JL Speakers came with small little adhesive buttons, that JUST BARELY cover the B&O logo.... Why not right?

That's it! Not much to it really. The sound seems a little better, but honestly, with the rear speakers not being amplified and the EQ\crossover still not doing the best, they are still lacking. But now I am ready for my Zen Audio Processor and amp for these rear speakers. That will be my next fun project.

Hope this helps you guys.

JL Audio C2 650x - (pair) $199.99 (Ebay Store - electronicexperts) Paul is a very good guy, very helpful and knowledgeable.
Metra Electronics (pair) 82-5605 - $14.99 (Amazon)
IMMK wiring adapter (4-pack) 72-5602 - $14.98 (Amazon)
8x #10 Stainless Steel Screws $0.17 each
Total time about 42 minutes

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[SpaceWhiteF150]

Nice write up! Like the touch with the JL sticker!

 

[rugedraw]

I swapped out the rear door speakers for a 6.5" components speakers. Added the tweeter right about the speaker grill. Also swapped the front door speakers for 6.5" components and replaced the factory a-pillar tweeter with the aftermarket one in the same location.

HUGE difference. My only regret is waiting so long to do it. I can actually hear the rear door speakers now.

 

[UGADawg96]

Fantastic write-up!!!!

 

[Dunthupl]

I swapped out the rear door speakers for a 6.5" components speakers. Added the tweeter right about the speaker grill. Also swapped the front door speakers for 6.5" components and replaced the factory a-pillar tweeter with the aftermarket one in the same location.

HUGE difference. My only regret is waiting so long to do it. I can actually hear the rear door speakers now.

What speakers did you use?

 

[rugedraw]

https://www.massiveaudio.com/produc...nent-kit-speakers?_pos=2&_fid=8446fce95&_ss=c

They're still on sale, too.

I went with Massive Audio have two 12's in and under-seat box with an old Massive Audio N3 monoblock amp that I've had for years, so I wanted everything to match. I have had nothing but good experience with their products, so I stuck to them. My 12's went through the infamous B&O system pop/static incidents not once.....but twice, and lived to tell the tale. If they can survive that, they can survive anything I throw at it. lol

Edit: I also added an acoustic treatment of dynamat on the doors behind the 6.5" drivers. Not the entire doors.....just a piece behind the speakers to prevent noise loss.

 

[JJSnell]

So one thing I found is is if you FADE all speakers to the rear, you hear the rear doors, the headrest and the roof speakers. They are not amplified at all. Would be interested to see if I unplugged the headrest and roof speakers if that would allow more power to the rears? I think the best option for better all around surround sound is amplifying those rear doors.

 

[rugedraw]

So one thing I found is is if you FADE all speakers to the rear, you hear the rear doors, the headrest and the roof speakers. They are not amplified at all. Would be interested to see if I unplugged the headrest and roof speakers if that would allow more power to the rears? I think the best option for better all around surround sound is amplifying those rear doors.

I wanted to amplify all the speakers I replaced, but it is not that simple in our trucks. If you add an amp to power certain speakers while keeping the factory B&O amp powering the other speakers, you will have digital and analog signals mixed together and was told by my audio guy that it would sound like sh*t. I did not want to spend the money in adding a DSP and repowering all the speakers unless it was necessary.....all I wanted was a bit more mids/highs to keep up with the extra bass I added to my truck. Now, it sounds perfect. It is not as loud as the elaborate sound systems I had in previous vehicles when I was younger, but it sounds very balanced between the high/mid/low spectrum now and the mids/highs are a lot not just louder, but cleaner and crisp. It made a huge difference and was a minimal investment.

 

[rugedraw]

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/speakers-best-bang-for-the-buck.12532/post-369317

Here's what mine look like.

 

[JJSnell]

I wanted to amplify all the speakers I replaced, but it is not that simple in our trucks. If you add an amp to power certain speakers while keeping the factory B&O amp powering the other speakers, you will have digital and analog signals mixed together and was told by my audio guy that it would sound like sh*t. I did not want to spend the money in adding a DSP and repowering all the speakers unless it was necessary.....all I wanted was a bit more mids/highs to keep up with the extra bass I added to my truck. Now, it sounds perfect. It is not as loud as the elaborate sound systems I had in previous vehicles when I was younger, but it sounds very balanced between the high/mid/low spectrum now and the mids/highs are a lot not just louder, but cleaner and crisp. It made a huge difference and was a minimal investment.

See? And that makes sense, I still have the football sized sub sitting in a shoe box under the seat. My prob is still the factory problem.... blaring music in my face with a 100 tweeters and nothing behind me. I know the Zen is expensive but Im gonna go that route and then power the rears. Id like to get the custom box behind the seat (dont want to take up underseat space), but I cant justify $800-$1000 for an empty box. Half tempted to call up my 17yr old self and ask him to build a custom box like he did in his 1979 Honda Accord Hatchback.... But I heard hes retired from that crap.

 

[JJSnell]

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/speakers-best-bang-for-the-buck.12532/post-369317

Here's what mine look like.

That looks clean... nice work.

 

[rugedraw]

See? And that makes sense, I still have the football sized sub sitting in a shoe box under the seat. My prob is still the factory problem.... blaring music in my face with a 100 tweeters and nothing behind me. I know the Zen is expensive but Im gonna go that route and then power the rears. Id like to get the custom box behind the seat (dont want to take up underseat space), but I cant justify $800-$1000 for an empty box. Half tempted to call up my 17yr old self and ask him to build a custom box like he did in his 1979 Honda Accord Hatchback.... But I heard hes retired from that crap.

The signal required for adding subs is very crude. You don't need to add a ZEN if you want more lows. Just make sure you add an LC2i or something comparable (I know Kicker makes one) to the amp to prevent the bass roll off at high volume.

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