Factory battery ongoing issues

[Gord0]

I don't think anyone is expecting 13v at rest. But low 12's isnt great either. No reason you should have the battery even below 12.5 in a new vehicle. Unless its a 21'+ Ford.

Not true, The new update keeps the 80% SOC, It just charges more aggressively.

You made my point. Low 12's is perfectly fine in an AGM. Now, do I think Ford put an undersized battery in these? Yes, absolutely. Do I also think their batteries are crap? Yes, absolutely. That's why I replaced mine with an h8 and haven't had an issue.

I'm pretty sure I read that the new BMS update targets a soc 90%+. I could very well be incorrect.

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[Samson16]

I have no idea about SOC settings, but I have the original battery in my 22 job 2 PB and this is the resting voltage first thing in the morning.

 

[Samson16]

And remember if I measured it correctly it’s a Fluke

 

[Snakebitten]

And remember if I measured it correctly it’s a Fluke

The only issue with your method is the open hood required, as well as the potential approach.

Not saying you did anything to wake it up, but the battery will take a ~.3V hit the second it opens its eyes even a crack.

 

[Gord0]

I have no idea about SOC settings, but I have the original battery in my 22 job 2 PB and this is the resting voltage first thing in the morning.

Looks like you're sitting right at 70%soc. Mine after approaching the truck a few times, opening the doors a few times, and then the hood was at 12.3 this morning as well. I've just got some extra capacity with my H8 than you have with your H7. Also, an H7 should be what Ford put in these trucks as a minimum!

 

[Samson16]

The only issue with your method is the open hood required, as well as the potential approach.

Not saying you did anything to wake it up, but the battery will take a ~.3V hit the second it opens its eyes even a crack.

I didn’t take the fob with me and used the keypad to unlock but I did notice my opening doors and using the keypad was invading its space lol. The voltage climbed from 12.27 to 12.29 while I had the leads on. It settled at 12.29 after 10 Mississippi’s. Now if your blue tooth device is not powered by the vehicle then I agree your method is more accurate. If the truck is aware of your presence in any way it spoils the measurement a bit. Splitting hairs but it does.

 

[Samson16]

Looks like you're sitting right at 70%soc. Mine after approaching the truck a few times, opening the doors a few times, and then the hood was at 12.3 this morning as well. I've just got some extra capacity with my H8 than you have with your H7. Also, an H7 should be what Ford put in these trucks as a minimum!

Batteries are like swimming pools. More volume isn’t an improvement without considering other factors.

 

[Samson16]

That’s a beginning of summer analogy right there

 

[Samson16]

The only issue with your method is the open hood required, as well as the potential approach.

Not saying you did anything to wake it up, but the battery will take a ~.3V hit the second it opens its eyes even a crack.

.3V? So my battery was 12.6V before I touched the keypad? I consider that to be just a little nothing then if the slightest current draw blows it away like froth on a

Edit: 17A low voltage wake up draw for the PB? It is so designed as a daily driver lol which for me it has been fortunately

 

[scott011422]

.3V? So my battery was 12.6V before I touched the keypad? I consider that to be just a little nothing then if the slightest current draw blows it away like froth on a

lol! I know the PowerBoost waking up draws close to 17 amps.

 

[Samson16]

lol! I know the PowerBoost waking up draws close to 17 amps.

17A?! That’s not blowing the foam off the top that’s taking a healthy swig! Goodness

 

[Snakebitten]

.3V? So my battery was 12.6V before I touched the keypad? I consider that to be just a little nothing then if the slightest current draw blows it away like froth on a

Edit: 17A low voltage wake up draw for the PB? It is so designed as a daily driver lol which for me it has been fortunately

The Bluetooth voltage meter is so low of a draw that it has no effect on the trucks BMS. Zero triggering of any kind.

If I had to bet, your voltage WAS ~12.6v before you touched the keypad.

Waking the truck does this every time:

It will recover though within a few minutes if there is no additional activity.

If you open the hood and then go away for 75 minutes, then you can return and get a more accurate static reading. I would think.

 

[Gros Ventre]

Unlatch the hood and leave your key fob back in the house, say at least 50' away. Then when you put a voltmeter on the battery you get a true resting voltage. As noted, if it wakes up, the battery voltage will drop due to the load for whatever modules came alive. I've observed around a 0.4 Voltage drop if it wakes up versus true resting voltage. That current draw drops voltage from internal resistance voltage loss.

 

[RancidRacer]

Thanks to this forum and all the excellent information about the 12V battery in front that I gathered from members such as Snakebitten and Gros Ventre. On 5/24, I finally had enough of connecting my NOCO5 to get my truck out of deep sleep. I went to my favorite Interstate Battery place and had them install an MTX-94R/H7 in my truck. Before the install, they checked my existing FoMoCo battery (electrically removed from the truck) and declared that it checked good. I told them to replace it anyway. BTW, this was the second Ford battery for my truck as the original was replaced by my dealer in 8/23. I also had them to keep my BM2 voltage monitor across the new battery. As soon as I got home, I reset the BMS as per the non-computer method detailed in the owners manual (flash lights 5 times, push brake 3 times, battery symbol in dash flashes and shows reset in a few seconds). I have been monitoring the voltage since and have consistently seen higher SOC voltages, about ~0.3V higher than before. After a ride yesterday of about 60 miles roundtrip (where I got 29.7mpg!), back at my house my SOC voltage read 12.97V, the highest I've ever seen! I appreciate this forum and the members...

 

[Gros Ventre]

A typical, flooded cell, Submarine lead-acid battery will have a "new" capacity of about 90% of rated. It will then increase to about 115% then begin declining. These batteries are replaced at 80% capacity. They do a test discharge on them periodically where they take the battery all the way down to the limiting cell's minimum voltage. A starting battery is constructed differently and won't have the life of one of these. The key point is these lead-acid batteries, flooded cell, AGM, or Gel cell will "test good" unless they are put on a high rate discharge for some minutes. That is the only way to ensure that all active material surface area is in play. The typical test conducted by a dealer or battery shop just doesn't really test these features. I've concluded Ford is buying defective batteries. When you replace your battery, give it a wetting down, low rate, long term charge. Then each fall pull it out and clean the top off to ensure no leakage paths for current are there (If acid does vent out, it can plate on the top creating over time a conductive path between posts).

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