Dash Cam Hardwire issue

[Richie_Czech]

Do your fuse taps actually fit in the slots? The tolerances on the F150's fuse slots have been tightened up to the point that generic China made taps will not insert into the slots. I had to order Bussmann taps which fit. The Bussmann taps are also tall enough that the wire clears the edge of the fuse box.

I used Slot 3 and Slot 35.

For my year 2021 it says slot 3 for wireless charger (which we don't have) and 35 400w inventer run/start.

I'm guess it might be different for yours, but wouldn't they both be switched-on only?

I plan to multimeter test them anyway, but am tad worried with Powerboost.
I'm not sure if removing standard 12V removes all power.

On our 2017 3.5 eco I wired it just fine, but there was no high voltage circuit.

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[Highway 11]

For my year 2021 it says slot 3 for wireless charger (which we don't have) and 35 400w inventer run/start.

I'm guess it might be different for yours, but wouldn't they both be switched-on only?

I plan to multimeter test them anyway, but am tad worried with Powerboost.
I'm not sure if removing standard 12V removes all power.

On our 2017 3.5 eco I wired it just fine, but there was no high voltage circuit.

So my memory is a bit rusty, but despite not having a wireless charger, the circuit is active.

This list came out after my wiring job, but you can see that in the BCM Fuse List, 3 is always hot and 35 is off ignition. I don't see any notes about the powerboost in the BCM list, but I do see notes for the powerboost in the other list.

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/thr...hot-always-hot-hot-in-start-or-run-etc.16305/

Disclaimer: I have a 2.7L so I don't have any experience with the powerboost and wiring.

 

[Richie_Czech]

I'm looking to finally get to this today.

Does anyone know if unhooking 12V battery indeed removes all power from at least the passenger footwell fuse box?
I'd assume the high voltage hybrid system has all fuses in the engine compartment marked with high voltage signs (have not looked).

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