"System Off to Save Battery" message

[HSV_MIkeJ]

I replaced the oem battery with a Duralast Platinum H8 AGM last Wednesday. Just pulled the stock shield over the battery, it's tight and tore a little but it works. Didn't want to deal with the dealer song and dance followed with a best case scenario of another battery too small to handle all the electronics in these trucks. I was sitting on a 2.something update, now it's on the current update. Just drove it for the first time since putting the new battery in and everything was fine, no "system off" message. Thanks to the guys recommending putting an H8 in.

Glad it worked for you too

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[Severdog]

I don't have any warning messages going off but after installing the $29 battery monitor, I can see that my battery is getting "soft" as it hovers around 12.0V overnight. I can also see it dropping quickly as I approach the truck and everything "wakes up."

My PB is about 20 months in my possession/22k. Do the dealers warranty this or is it considered a "wear item?"

Looks like replacements are $250+

 

[bgalakazam]

Started getting this 3-4 weeks ago. Start/Stop has almost never engaged for me. Truck is driven pretty much daily since I got it. Bad battery? I know these don't charge past 80% or something. I remember when I was doing some module updates, my maintainer could barely keep up and battery dipped below min threshold a few times.

Any way I can get "proof" that there is an issue with the battery to get some warranty work? Very hard being in Germany to justify anything with Ford, other than recalls.

Thanks!

I just realized I have the H6 battery (BAGM-48H6-760) on my 500A. Manual states the 5.0 can also come with H7 optional (BAGM-94RH7-800).

Want the lights back, don't really care for start/stop. If I go out of pocket to upgrade, should I just get H8? Will it fit? Or get a H7? Easy as a BMS reset after? Thanks!

 

[fordtruckman2003]

I just realized I have the H6 battery (BAGM-48H6-760) on my 500A. Manual states the 5.0 can also come with H7 optional (BAGM-94RH7-800).

Want the lights back, don't really care for start/stop. If I go out of pocket to upgrade, should I just get H8? Will it fit? Or get a H7? Easy as a BMS reset after? Thanks!

Just dropped an H8 into my 2.7 and it will fit into every truck that is not a Powerboost.
2.7 3.0 3.3 3.5 5.0 can all use H8.

You'll want to get the H8 size battery insulation to have best battery lifespan.
KL3Z10A687C

BMS reset is easy just flashing headlights and tapping brake pedal.

 

[bgalakazam]

Took the truck to dealer to test battery. They just said it's low, but I can buy a new battery if I wanted. 300 Euro... ended up getting a different battery for 235 Euro (still a bit pricy compared to the states). All the issues are gone, didn't wanna deal with it anymore. Larger heat shield on the way.

 

[2Lazy2P]

i’m at the dealer for unrelated work and they said I need a battery service. The SA said they are charging the OEM battery to bring it up to 12.5 and if I experience another deep sleep warning (which I mentioned to the SA at check-in) to bring the truck back and they will warranty replace it. Two months ago I did a BMS reset because I was regularly getting Deep Sleep warnings on the FordPass app. Not sure how long it will be before the message reappears.

 

[2Lazy2P]

Update. The battery was tested and showed 45% so they brought it up to 80%. Then, irony of ironies, while the SA was walking me through their work order for sign off, I got a message from FordPass that the truck went into Deep Sleep owing to SOC. The SA then did a step-back dance and agreed to replace the battery next week.

 

[Gros Ventre]

This sounds like the battery has an internal short. So how does that happen? In a battery, particularly one that is old, active material can spall off the plates. This happens in all batteries and more specifically one that is overcharged. In the olden days where all batteries were flooded cell type, one method of extending a battery's life was to build the battery with a large volume underneath the bottom of the plates so that it took awhile for the spalled off material to accumulate and reach the bottom of the plates. A battery with this going on will take a charge but will then discharge back down when the charging has stopped. Commonly only shows up in one cell but that's enough to prevent starting. So why did Ford program the float voltage at 12.69 or 80%? I think they were hedging their bets on battery life. I come around to the same conclusion I reached a good while ago: Ford either got a batch of bad batteries or they let way too many sit inactive in parked trucks awaiting chips... Another idea: For example if the battery manufacturer made a batch of batteries with improperly alloyed active material, then this spalling off of material could go faster than expected leading to these phantom discharges to 40%. Doesn't make sense that these batteries discharge down like this. My replacement battery, out here in Wyoming where winters get down to below -20ºF, seems to sit just fine at around 12.8VDC when off. I measure it with a handheld voltmeter having popped the hood so I don't have to trigger some modules. My current battery is a straight out of the NAPA catalog for the F-150 bought on the road two years ago. It never occurred to me that poorly alloyed active material could be a cause... but it fits the symptoms. Who knows, maybe the contractor made a batch of lead-antimony batteries instead of lead calcium. Lead antimony alloys have shorter lives than lead calcium... :-(

 

[LouDog]

I replaced the oem battery with a Duralast Platinum H8 AGM last Wednesday. Just pulled the stock shield over the battery, it's tight and tore a little but it works. Didn't want to deal with the dealer song and dance followed with a best case scenario of another battery too small to handle all the electronics in these trucks. I was sitting on a 2.something update, now it's on the current update. Just drove it for the first time since putting the new battery in and everything was fine, no "system off" message. Thanks to the guys recommending putting an H8 in.

curious, did all those updates just start rolling in automatically after Installing a new battery? I’m stuck on 4.2.4.

 

[spud_41]

curious, did all those updates just start rolling in automatically after Installing a new battery? I’m stuck on 4.2.4.

I stopped paying attention to all the update numbers but I think I'm still in the 4.something so not entirely up to date. Haven't driven it in a bit. I guess we're supposed to be in the 6's now.

 

[Ford Motor Company]

curious, did all those updates just start rolling in automatically after Installing a new battery? I’m stuck on 4.2.4.

Good morning, Sean! I would be glad to help you out with these update concerns if you are in need of assistance. Just shoot us a PM with your VIN and dealer name/location, and I'll get right on it. To send a private message, just click on our username and select "Start Conversation". Thank you!

 

[LouDog]

Good morning, Sean! I would be glad to help you out with these update concerns if you are in need of assistance. Just shoot us a PM with your VIN and dealer name/location, and I'll get right on it. To send a private message, just click on our username and select "Start Conversation". Thank you!

Thank you for reaching out! I would really like to get my truck fully up to date as it should solve some of the issues I am seeing. PM sent.

 

[Gros Ventre]

How does that spalling off of active material occur in a lead acid battery? One of the byproducts during charging is oxygen and hydrogen. In a flooded cell battery light gassing in all cells at the end of charging shows a healthy battery. This occurs in an AGM battery. Recall that AGM Batteries have the ability to recombine oxygen and hydrogen. This gassing is why in a flooded cell battery you have to add water every so often. The recombinant capability of the AGM means you don't have to add water and they can seal the battery. But... if that gassing is large it also occurs within plates and thus as it exits the surface of the plate it can knock off little bits of active material. That then falls to the bottom. Would this happen in an AGM batteries? Given the glass mats immediately adjacent to the plate, it may not fall to the bottom but some of that material would take up residence within the glass mat. This loss of material from the plate will represent a loss of capacity. So the classic shorting out of plates by material in the bottom may not happen, but there will be a loss of capacity. This is why I am reluctant to see the upping of the programmed 80% to 90 or 95% as a good thing. If you intentionally induce more gassing, you run a risk of upping the amount of spalling off of active material. Remember 12.69VDC is the theoretical full charge voltage, while the practical zero float has long been 13.2VDC. Having put a voltmeter in my dashboard, I'm seeing something like this.

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