Kicker Key install setup questions

[Jersey devil]

I mounted my Key 200.4 up and behind the lower glove box. I also used the plug-n-play harness. I wanted access to the switches and dials on the key. You have to trim a little (1/4") off the back of the glove box to clear the key when you close it, but no big deal.....

What did you use to fasten the key? I tried doing the same using 3M VHB tape but it wouldn't hold.

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[TexasTruck]

What did you use to fasten the key? I tried doing the same using 3M VHB tape but it wouldn't hold.

I used these velcro strips....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09BNPX3XJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I cleaned both locations with 70% alcohol, let it dry, with both pieces of velcro stuck to each other, I removed the sticky side film from one side, stuck it to the Key, removed the other sticky side film, carefully (you get one chance ) angle the Key so you can insert it against the support the lower glove box latches on.

 

[22SpaceWhiteXLT]

I used these velcro strips....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09BNPX3XJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I cleaned both locations with 70% alcohol, let it dry, with both pieces of velcro stuck to each other, I removed the sticky side film from one side, stuck it to the Key, removed the other sticky side film, carefully (you get one chance ) angle the Key so you can insert it against the support the lower glove box latches on.

Could I bother you to take a pic of how you trimmed the glove box. Also what did you use to cut it?

 

[Graygoose2021]

@TexasTruck
Yes biamp will really bring the imagining to life.

 

[TexasTruck]

Run new tweeter wires over to the Key, unpin the rear door speakers from the plug-n-play harness and let the OEM system power them. That will give me more control over the tweeters and/or let the Key DSP figure it out.

Thanks @Graygoose2021 for the idea. The job was bigger than I anticipated , basically started over. A bi-amp specific plug-n-play harness would have been nice (@Joe if you're listening) In the end it was worth the effort. I switched back to the Kicker CSS passive crossovers too and set them to 0db. The Key DSP did its magic and the tweeters sound natural, thanks again.

 

[22SpaceWhiteXLT]

Updates so far

I ended up with a great deal on some Kicker KS 6x9 3 ways which I put in the front doors (still waiting on the rear speakers to arrive. The 6x9s sound and fit great, my only concern so far is I am legitimately worried the stock tweeters are going to blow with the extra power.

Does anyone have experience with running stock speakers (specifically the tweeters) with the Key? I considered going with components but I want the power to the rears as well so my kids can actually hear more than just bass from the sub.

I installed the key above the glovebox and trimmed a little bit off just like @TexasTruck so it will close properly (not hard at all)

Also I left the center 7th speaker unplugged.

 

[Graygoose2021]

You should be fine, many use the KEY on stock speakers as a first upgrade. Then later add real speakers

 

[TexasTruck]

Does anyone have experience with running stock speakers (specifically the tweeters) with the Key?

I ran the stock tweeters for a while until I received the tweeter brackets from @SoundsGoodStereo for the Kicker component tweeters. Glad the Key mounted up for you. I forgot to send a pick of my glove box for ya….

 

[22SpaceWhiteXLT]

@Graygoose2021 I have run into an issue that I am hoping someone can help with. Everything has been working fine so far except my backup sensor volume is extremely low. Open door chime (do de do) is working at normal volume and coming thru the speakers not the dash but the reverse warning chime is so faint it might as well not even be happening. I turned any music down and I can hear it when approaching something but it is super low. I did just have the LH taillamp replaced under warranty recently so I suppose that could be related but I am not getting any codes for the BLIS module or any related sensors not being plugged back in, so I can only assume something with the amp is causing the issue. Any help is greatly appreciated

 

[Magician]

@Graygoose2021 I have run into an issue that I am hoping someone can help with. Everything has been working fine so far except my backup sensor volume is extremely low. Open door chime (do de do) is working at normal volume and coming thru the speakers not the dash but the reverse warning chime is so faint it might as well not even be happening. I turned any music down and I can hear it when approaching something but it is super low. I did just have the LH taillamp replaced under warranty recently so I suppose that could be related but I am not getting any codes for the BLIS module or any related sensors not being plugged back in, so I can only assume something with the amp is causing the issue. Any help is greatly appreciated

Did your harness from P&P have load resistors? They will mute the tones significantly. Since you have Forscan set the tones to instrument cluster and they will be a bit better.

from a previous post “Go into IPC Module Configuration & change "Chimes - Primary Source" to "Instrument Cluster Only" This basically brings back old-style ford chimes and beeps, but since they are not played through speakers with the new flatline audio signal config, they aren't obnoxiously loud instead through speaker behind the screen somewhere”.

Hope this helps.

 

[22SpaceWhiteXLT]

Did your harness from P&P have load resistors? They will mute the tones significantly. Since you have Forscan set the tones to instrument cluster and they will be a bit better.

from a previous post “Go into IPC Module Configuration & change "Chimes - Primary Source" to "Instrument Cluster Only" This basically brings back old-style ford chimes and beeps, but since they are not played through speakers with the new flatline audio signal config, they aren't obnoxiously loud instead through speaker behind the screen somewhere”.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the insight. I read over on the Bronco forum it could have something to do with the fader switch. I will give that a try and see if it helps, otherwise ill revert it to the cluster sounds. Thanks!

 

[Magician]

Thanks for the insight. I read over on the Bronco forum it could have something to do with the fader switch. I will give that a try and see if it helps, otherwise ill revert it to the cluster sounds. Thanks!

Question, you did not amp the tweeters right?
Verify all of your speakers are working properly.
When you do the Key set up make sure all the bass, treble etc are set flat by pressing “Reset” same with the Fader. Also set your speed adjusted volume to off and make sure the HVAC blower is off. Have to do this in a quiet environment as well. My advice on gains is leave it alone. If you do decide to adjust keep in mind any increases should be small ones. If you have an OScope I would use that.

Cheers and good luck.

 

[22SpaceWhiteXLT]

Question, you did not amp the tweeters right?
Verify all of your speakers are working properly.
When you do the Key set up make sure all the bass, treble etc are set flat by pressing “Reset” same with the Fader. Also set your speed adjusted volume to off and make sure the HVAC blower is off. Have to do this in a quiet environment as well. My advice on gains is leave it alone. If you do decide to adjust keep in mind any increases should be small ones. If you have an OScope I would use that.

Cheers and good luck.

I changed the Fader dip switch and the sound for reverse beep came back to normal levels. I guess it was grabbing signal from one front channel instead of front and rear.

I have run the DSP a few times now and have followed these tips, Thanks for taking the time to reply.

All speakers are working properly, and the tweeters are powered on the same channel as each corresponding front door.

Only issue so far with the DSP is it makes the tweeters sound a bit flat. When I toggle it off they sound way better. Trying to work that out now.

 

[Magician]

I changed the Fader dip switch and the sound for reverse beep came back to normal levels. I guess it was grabbing signal from one front channel instead of front and rear.

I have run the DSP a few times now and have followed these tips, Thanks for taking the time to reply.

All speakers are working properly, and the tweeters are powered on the same channel as each corresponding front door.

Only issue so far with the DSP is it makes the tweeters sound a bit flat. When I toggle it off they sound way better. Trying to work that out now.

Good to hear you got it sorted. Your tweeter issue is exactly the opposite of mine as I feel they are to bright but my setup is a bit different.

 

[Graygoose2021]

I changed the Fader dip switch and the sound for reverse beep came back to normal levels. I guess it was grabbing signal from one front channel instead of front and rear.

I have run the DSP a few times now and have followed these tips, Thanks for taking the time to reply.

All speakers are working properly, and the tweeters are powered on the same channel as each corresponding front door.

Only issue so far with the DSP is it makes the tweeters sound a bit flat. When I toggle it off they sound way better. Trying to work that out now.

sorry was out of town yesterday.

One way to "trick" the tweeters, during DSP setup, lay mic on seat like normal, lay small rag over the mic. Will boost the tweeters more.

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