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Old school start up chimes after kicker key 200.4 + plug-n-play harness install

TexasTruck

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As the subject says, the chimes sound, but not through the door speakers. The install is not difficult. I ran 10ga pos/neg directly from the battery (fused and sleeved of course) and installed the T-harness from plug-n-play.

Any idea what I did wrong?

Thank you.
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Graygoose2021

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Are they coming from the dash now?
The KEY will kinda dictate the freq its seeing and send to the appropriate speaker. Part of the DSP setup.
As it goes through the learning process, it will see that signal, and probably just send to the speaker it thinks is best.
 
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Thank you @Graygoose2021 ! I'm not sure what happened, but now when I open the door and turn the key on (no start) the startup chimes come through the speakers - whew!

I had visions of having to gain access to the back of the head unit again!

I'm impressed by this little bugger! Just need better speakers now ;)
 

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Who did you go through to get the plug and play stuff for the 200.4? Happen to take any install pics. This is on my list after ambient lighting.
 

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Thank you @Graygoose2021 ! I'm not sure what happened, but now when I open the door and turn the key on (no start) the startup chimes come through the speakers - whew!

I had visions of having to gain access to the back of the head unit again!

I'm impressed by this little bugger! Just need better speakers now ;)
Yes, the KEY2004 can make a world of sound difference!! Better speakers will really enhance it.
 

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Who did you go through to get the plug and play stuff for the 200.4? Happen to take any install pics. This is on my list after ambient lighting.
Based on all the positive feedback here, I went with Plug N Play Kits. There are others mentioned in this forum as well that I'm sure work too. The link above takes you to a page that really needs some organization ;) They offer a number of configurations so make sure you know what you're looking at. You can always call to get more information.

I ordered:
IT 11-1 KICKER KEY 180/200,4 HARNESS ONLY
17ft cable with load resistors pinned to add into 11-1 harness
KICKER Hideaway® HS10 × 1

I installed my Kicker Key 200.4 on the underside of the "glove box". I don't have the fancy flip up door, but I bet the "glove box" bottom is same either way. I used velcro (hold 15 lbs.) to hold it up against the bottom of my "glove box". I also wanted access to the dip switches and microphone socket, like this:
Ford F-150 Old school start up chimes after kicker key 200.4 + plug-n-play harness install IMG_2910

Ford F-150 Old school start up chimes after kicker key 200.4 + plug-n-play harness install IMG_2911


I don't have any pictures of the T-harness install. There are a bunch of videos out there that explain how to get access to the plug behind the head unit. I used the 8" to 12" screen upgrade video by Infotainment 8" to 12" Install Guide. It doesn't take you all the way to behind the head unit, but close enough where you'll figure the rest out.

Wiring to the battery was not that simple IMO. I didn't want the amp on the drivers side. Some say they removed a large rubber nipple on the firewall behind the engine bay fuse box, but I went a different route. I removed the front right fender liner so I could access the cavity just inside beneath the fender vent. In that cavity you'll find a plastic body plug that put you right behind the fuse box inside the cab - perfect. You can tie up the power runs in the cavity and use a rubber grommet where the wires enter the cab. I also ran power for the Kicker Hideaway at the same time.

I didn't do the whole distribution block and all that. I simply ran four (2 pos / 2 neg) fused and sleeved 10ga stranded marine wire for power.

Hope this helps.
 
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jlandry

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Yes, the KEY2004 can make a world of sound difference!! Better speakers will really enhance it.
Just ordered my 200.4. Couldnt stand it and since i found one in stock... they seem pretty hard to find.
 

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Based on all the positive feedback here, I went with Plug N Play Kits. There are others mentioned in this forum as well that I'm sure work too. The link above takes you to a page that really needs some organization ;) They offer a number of configurations so make sure you know what you're looking at. You can always call to get more information.

I ordered:
IT 11-1 KICKER KEY 180/200,4 HARNESS ONLY
17ft cable with load resistors pinned to add into 11-1 harness
KICKER Hideaway® HS10 × 1

I installed my Kicker Key 200.4 on the underside of the "glove box". I don't have the fancy flip up door, but I bet the "glove box" bottom is same either way. I used velcro (hold 15 lbs.) to hold it up against the bottom of my "glove box". I also wanted access to the dip switches and microphone socket, like this:
IMG_2910.jpg

IMG_2911.jpg


I don't have any pictures of the T-harness install. There are a bunch of videos out there that explain how to get access to the plug behind the head unit. I used the 8" to 12" screen upgrade video by Infotainment 8" to 12" Install Guide. It doesn't take you all the way to behind the head unit, but close enough where you'll figure the rest out.

Hope this helps.
For sure! I had been eyeing up those plug N play kits. Ill go through them as well. Just got the amp, speaker adaptors, and speaker wire harnesses ordered up. I have some CT sounds stuff in my Peterbilt and am more than impressed with it so ill be using them for the speaker side of things.
 

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Just ordered my 200.4. Couldnt stand it and since i found one in stock... they seem pretty hard to find.
Yup, getting the DSP chips were a NIGHTMARE. Had to reesign the amp board. Then one computer manufacture competed with us for chips..and they won LOL
We received about 2000 in, and more coming in. So ample stock soon.
 

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@Graygoose2021 Do you have any speaker recommendations for this type of amplifier?

Thanks!
 

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As the subject says, the chimes sound, but not through the door speakers. The install is not difficult. I ran 10ga pos/neg directly from the battery (fused and sleeved of course) and installed the T-harness from plug-n-play.

Any idea what I did wrong?

Thank you.
The chimes wont go through the ACM if the Speaker circuits are open. Which now they are since you added an amp. the ACM sets a DTC for the Speaker circuit causing the Chimes to revert to the Cluster.

Not too sure what the solution is.
 
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Thank you @Jesse-Infotainment ! I did check for a DTC in Forscan and I didn't see any set.... I don't know what changed..... I double checked the "Radio" button on the Key 200.4 and it was pressed in. I went inside to check my work stuff, started this thread, then went back out to my truck. Turned the key to on (no start) and the Do De Do-Do De Do came out of the speakers like normal. I started the truck, backed up a little and the reverse sensors picked up the corner of the garage and beeped through the speakers too.

Just weird.... but I'm just glad it seems fine now.
 

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Thank you @Jesse-Infotainment ! I did check for a DTC in Forscan and I didn't see any set.... I don't know what changed..... I double checked the "Radio" button on the Key 200.4 and it was pressed in. I went inside to check my work stuff, started this thread, then went back out to my truck. Turned the key to on (no start) and the Do De Do-Do De Do came out of the speakers like normal. I started the truck, backed up a little and the reverse sensors picked up the corner of the garage and beeped through the speakers too.

Just weird.... but I'm glad is seems fine now.
Ok. It will do that sometimes.

Glad its back to normal I hate it when it comes through the cluster.
 

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