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pcohenchicago

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Hey all. Excited to be here. I am on my third F150 I've owned in my life.
2022 Lariat PowerBoost special order with lots of extra goodies that sat on the lot while the original order maker failed to pick it up.
Previous was a 2016 Lariat of the same color. SUCH a different vehicle now.
Purchased on a Saturday and was in the shop the Monday after with an error popping up. Ford App says States Powertrain Malfunction / Reduced Power.
They said that the programming was wrong on the chasis? They reprogrammed it and it worked for a day until the error was coming back again.
I am not concerned at the moment. Leaving the truck with the dealer while I travel first week of January.
Getting FDRS and Mongoose this week to get my own updates in.
Got an SCT X4 tuner - just waiting for the updates and error to be resolved.

Quick question: In the wheel well below the gas cap I found a string that, when pulled, it opens the gas tank lid. Should this be there? It's just sitting along the edge of the wheel well and dangles when I drive. Should that be tucket away? The door opens with the button in the cab just fine.

Thank you and glad to be here!
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pcohenchicago

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By the way, the tuner and tune is from Unleashed.
 

Kodiak

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The PB is the only model (I believe) with a locking gas cover. This has something to do with the pressure needed for the gas tank. What exactly it does, IDK.

That string is the emergency release and it should be tucked away. One of the first things you may want to get is in this link:

Ford Billet Fuel Door Pin | MegaOhm Motorsports LLC (bigcartel.com)

The plastic piece that is OEM can fall out, get shot out, and you can easily loose it. This is a more permanent solution.

If that truck is a 2022 Lariat then it has sat idle for quite some time. You should change the oil and give it some time to work out any gremlins that may arrive for a hybrid sitting idle for extended periods of time. Good luck with it. I love my 2022 Lariat.
 
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pcohenchicago

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Thank you! I'll figure out how to tuck that cord. I heard about that fuel door pin. Thanks for the link. I will get that. Any other tips for the 22 that I should look at?

Yes, it sat for about a year. I hope to get the FDRS updates done this week as I am sure it's way behind on those. Oil change was done at dealership before delivery. About to have ceramic tint on all the windows/moonroof followed by a thorough detailing at my detailer who will do some paint correction as needed and ceramic coat the truck. I really only use the truck for towing the motorcycles around and hauling as needed. Otherwise, it will sit more than it will drive. However, I want it in tip top shape :)
 

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pcohenchicago

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Depending on how long it sat on the lot... you may want to consider replacing the main 12VDC battery. Lead acid batteries don't like to just sit.
Interesting you say that. When I FIRST took the truck for a test ride there was a 12V error. It has not come up since then. I may just do it since I've heard also that there have been some defective batteries out there. Should I just get a Ford replacement or is there another one you recommend?
 

Gros Ventre

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Well... There are two possibilities with Ford OEM Batteries. 1st if the truck has sat for an extended time, the battery likely has deteriorated (lead acid batteries just don't like "sitting around"). or 2nd they got some bad batteries. I had some odd readings about 4 months after delivery of my '21 PB and given the circumstances, I just got an off the shelf NAPA Battery. I'm partial to NAPA. Not a peep since, 2 years now.
 

Snakebitten

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Just fair warning......
If you take your truck to the dealership everytime it pops up an error or warning, with a Powerboost specifically, you might not have custody of the truck as much as the dealership does.

FDRS and a fresh H7 AGM are both excellent ideas. And if the truck is going to sit unused often, it's a prime candidate for a trickle charger.

Awesome trucks. Amazing even. But can be a bit software-quirky. :)
 

Kodiak

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Snake's and Gros's advice above is good. If you read about the battery in one of the many threads you will see a lot of people speak about getting the larger H8 battery. However, that is for non PB trucks. As Snake pointed out the PB will take up to the H7 size.

Throwing in a new battery will be money well spent IMO, and a cheap "mod" at that.
 

Gros Ventre

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Another thing you might do, if you get a new battery, is to give it a "Wetting down charge." By this I mean put it on a low rate, say 2 amps, charge and let it go to completion. That's probably 8-12 hours. This ensures all active material in the battery is set up correctly and activated. This is common practice with large submarine batteries. To be blunt, there is something odd about those Ford OEM batteries. I can't quite put my finger on it. What I can tell you is that a new, off-the-shelf, drop in, NAPA AGM Battery with that wetting down charge, has not had a single problem in 2 years, including two Wyoming winters (typically -20ºF). Note that if you measure system voltage any activity, such as opening a door, triggers some modules on the truck. If you want to get a true "at rest" voltage reading you have to leave the hood unlatched and come back later after all the modules quiet down. This is because any current draw on the battery alters its terminal voltage.
 

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darkhorse

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Regarding the rip cord for the fuel door, this guy shows how he secured it:
 

Atlee

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If and when you get a new H7 AGM battery, make sure it has 800 CCA. Some came from the factory with around 760 CCA.

Ford F-150 Hello and Question IMG_20220216_135336111_HDRa
 

fordtruckman2003

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Another thing you might do, if you get a new battery, is to give it a "Wetting down charge." By this I mean put it on a low rate, say 2 amps, charge and let it go to completion. That's probably 8-12 hours. This ensures all active material in the battery is set up correctly and activated. This is common practice with large submarine batteries. To be blunt, there is something odd about those Ford OEM batteries. I can't quite put my finger on it. What I can tell you is that a new, off-the-shelf, drop in, NAPA AGM Battery with that wetting down charge, has not had a single problem in 2 years, including two Wyoming winters (typically -20ºF). Note that if you measure system voltage any activity, such as opening a door, triggers some modules on the truck. If you want to get a true "at rest" voltage reading you have to leave the hood unlatched and come back later after all the modules quiet down. This is because any current draw on the battery alters its terminal voltage.
Good point leaving hood open but also leave fobs far from truck. Just getting near it can always hear the relays clicking as it wakes up, even with the welcome lighting turned off.
 
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pcohenchicago

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Thank you everyone. I mean it. That is very helpful. I will plan a new battery install. I saw in another thread about needing to reset something with a new battery replacement. I wish I could find it. What is that and is there a how-to on that reset?

Thanks, again. Looking forward to having this truck for a long long time :)
 

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Good point leaving hood open but also leave fobs far from truck. Just getting near it can always hear the relays clicking as it wakes up, even with the welcome lighting turned off.
True, I should have mentioned that also as I hd to learn to leave my key fob in the house, :)
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