Best battery product(s)?

[YzermanTopShelf]

Given all the battery issues that some of us have had, I'd like to be better prepared. Ideally I'd get a product that can do the following:

• Easily measure the battery voltage
• Battery tender (for when the truck needs to sit for a long time or to help with OTA updates)
• Jump starting the battery (something I would carry in the truck when traveling)

Is there a single product that can do all these things? Greatly appreciate any advice!

Thanks!

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[DanielG]

NOCO makes some pretty good chargers and jump starters. I have both.

 

[imnuts]

Most battery tenders don't have a battery or circuitry in them to allow for jump starting. You may get one that can measure voltage and either charge or jump start, but probably not all 3. For a charger, is recommend getting one that can also act as a power supply if needed, in case you ever want to do updates yourself.

For the best of all three, I'd get a multimeter, battery charger, and then jump pack. You can use the meter on more than just the battery.

 

[YzermanTopShelf]

@DanielG - I've looked at the NOCO jump starters - which one did you go with, specifically which size?

@imnuts - do recommend a specific multimeter?

Thanks!

 

[DanielG]

The GB50 is a good size. They are also nice for when the power goes out to charge phones and such.

 

[shalabama]

The GB50 is a good size. They are also nice for when the power goes out to charge phones and such.

I bought the GB50 a while back but haven’t had to use yet……knock on wood. But I’ve got a question for the electrical experts on here.
Noco instructions say to connect to positive and negative terminals while I’ve read you need to avoid hooking a charger up to the negative terminal to I believe avoid confusing the truck’s charge sensor (forgive me if I’m misstating this). Does this also apply to the Noco jump starter or just when charging the battery?

 

[FrankThompson]

I've got a Noco GBX75 for the truck (it's overkill for the truck, but I don't keep it in there just for me). I also have a GB40 in the wife's car.

As far as battery tender, I use a Battery Tender (Brand) 800 for my solstice and I've never had a problem with it. I keep ti strapped in the engine bay and just pop the hood and plug an extension cord into it when I need it.

Since I don't drive much I'm thinking of doing the same to the truck but would really like to find a place to mount one of these to plug the battery tender into:

 

[Calson]

All that is needed when doing updates is a small 2Ah 12v battery and leads with clips.

The only way any battery can be tested is under a load. You can do a quick check by having someone start the truck while you check the amount of voltage drop on a $10 volt meter.

There are battery boosters being sold but check the reviews as many die and don't work right when you need it. If they sell one with a lithium battery pack I would pay the extra money and get it.

 

[thudnblunder]

As far as battery tender, I use a Battery Tender (Brand) 800 for my solstice and I've never had a problem with it. I keep ti strapped in the engine bay and just pop the hood and plug an extension cord into it when I need it.

Doesn’t the engine bay get really hot? Hot enough to reduce the life of the tender?

 

[FrankThompson]

Doesn’t the engine bay get really hot? Hot enough to reduce the life of the tender?

I don't drive my solstice often, itt's also tucked near the battery (which is down in the fender of a solstice). you have to actually remove the fender to replace the battery.

I've never had an issue.

(not my car)

 

[JEB]

All that is needed when doing updates is a small 2Ah 12v battery and leads with clips.

That might work for some of the smaller programming jobs, but it’s way too small for larger ones like the IPC and the IPMA if you have to use the CAN bus. Programming can take 3-6 hours and I wouldn’t trust it to any battery charger that couldn’t run in power supply mode and deliver at least 10 (and preferably 20) amps. Clore Automotive makes a very good one (PL2320) and is a favorite on the ECU programming thread. It charges, runs in power supply mode and is a very good trickle charger/tender. https://www.amazon.com/Clore-Automotive-PL2320-Battery-Maintainer-20/dp/B007ESQW08. It can’t charge lithium but it does everything else very well for less than $100.

 

[thudnblunder]

That might work for some of the smaller programming jobs, but it’s way too small for larger ones like the IPC and the IPMA if you have to use the CAN bus. Programming can take 3-6 hours and I wouldn’t trust it to any battery charger that couldn’t run in power supply mode and deliver at least 10 (and preferably 20) amps. Clore Automotive makes a very good one (PL2320) and is a favorite on the ECU programming thread. It charges, runs in power supply mode and is a very good trickle charger/tender. https://www.amazon.com/Clore-Automotive-PL2320-Battery-Maintainer-20/dp/B007ESQW08. It can’t charge lithium but it does everything else very well for less than $100.

I bought a 8A Battery Tender but this looks like a much better deal for a significantly more capable charger. Thanks for sharing.

 

[imnuts]

I have a Fluke 117 meter. There are cheaper options from Fluke that are a little more basic, but this one can do pretty much anything you'd need as a DIY homeowner/mechanic I feel like. My preference is Fluke, but Klein, Greenlee and Ideal probably have more cost effective options available and are also reputable electrical equipment brands.

 

[YzermanTopShelf]

@JEB I took a look at the Clore - definitely looks pretty powerful. Is it possible to use it with ring terminal harness? I used to ride motorcycles and would always connect a ring terminal harness to the bike's battery so I could plug it in when finished riding. I'd like to do the same with my truck. I definitely want something that will help with software updates. Do you think this battery tender could be sufficient?

@DanielG - I'm picking up a NOCO GB-50. Thanks!

@imnuts - I found this multimeter on Amazon and ordered it. The Fluke looks pretty nice but a bit to pricey for me. Thanks!

Thanks!

 

[SuperRaptor]

That might work for some of the smaller programming jobs, but it’s way too small for larger ones like the IPC and the IPMA if you have to use the CAN bus. Programming can take 3-6 hours and I wouldn’t trust it to any battery charger that couldn’t run in power supply mode and deliver at least 10 (and preferably 20) amps. Clore Automotive makes a very good one (PL2320) and is a favorite on the ECU programming thread. It charges, runs in power supply mode and is a very good trickle charger/tender. https://www.amazon.com/Clore-Automotive-PL2320-Battery-Maintainer-20/dp/B007ESQW08. It can’t charge lithium but it does everything else very well for less than $100.

To confirm for doing OTA's I'm fine with my battery tender that goes up to 5 AMPs? 10-20 AMPs seems crazy to require for a 12v car battery.

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