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Adding a Sub to non-unleashed BO system

Graygoose2021

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well it is a built in powered sub, on hot days, may get pretty hot in there if your jammin
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TJSparky

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There is a small tab you can pull back on. There is some video on it on YouTube. Then get one of these to make it easier to always unlatch…

BuiltRight Industries Rear Seat Release for Ford F-150 (2009+), F-250/350 (2017+) - The Original, Made in USA https://a.co/d/dmHQHVZ
 

dcfergus

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hey
There is a small tab you can pull back on. There is some video on it on YouTube. Then get one of these to make it easier to always unlatch…

BuiltRight Industries Rear Seat Release for Ford F-150 (2009+), F-250/350 (2017+) - The Original, Made in USA https://a.co/d/dmHQHVZ

Love the clean/simple look of this install! Definitely wanna replicate this, where did you find that mount for the amp and LC2i? Also, mind sharing the deets on what Rockford amp you decided to go with? Thanks in advance man!
 

TJSparky

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I used some of this from Amazon and made my own mount.

Mega Format Expanded PVC Plastic Sheets - 11" X 17" Rigid Black Sheet for Crafts, Signage, & Displays - Sintra, Celtec PVC Board - Waterproof for Outdoors Use - 1/4" 6mm Thick - 3-Pk-Black https://a.co/d/fNKhmXE

Amp was a R2500x1

Rockford Fosgate R2-500X1 Prime 500-Watt Mono Amplifier https://a.co/d/dOEbFKz
 

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dewaynetreff

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i figured it out. Anyone installing a subwoofer should change the following in forscan

727-01-01 xxxx x*xx xx--
*A

after changing the parameter, the overall sound and sub level is awesome
Just curious as to what this actually does and why its needed. Thanks!
 

Jersey devil

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Just curious as to what this actually does and why its needed. Thanks!
Flattens the sound curve coming from the head unit so your processor/ EQ can fine tune the sound.

When I did my system I just made sure everything was "neutral" in the settings - audio- tone and let the kicker key make the adjustments. Not sure how much of a difference it makes if you went the Forscan route.
 

Rodoni

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Those running the kicker hideaway…are you using the 10/14 gauge power wire that comes with it and running it to the battery??

Are you using a kicker keyLOC or lc2i and powering it from that dinky wire as well (bridging it from the hideaway to the keyLOC/lc2i)?

I got a 4awg wiring kit to run from the battery but having a heck of a time trying to figure out the best way to attach these small gauge wires to the 4 gauge.
 

Bob Violence

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Those running the kicker hideaway…are you using the 10/14 gauge power wire that comes with it and running it to the battery??

Are you using a kicker keyLOC or lc2i and powering it from that dinky wire as well (bridging it from the hideaway to the keyLOC/lc2i)?

I got a 4awg wiring kit to run from the battery but having a heck of a time trying to figure out the best way to attach these small gauge wires to the 4 gauge.
I ran 10 gauge from the battery to the Kicker. I remember that the power wire included with the Kicker was a smaller wire (larger gauge) than the 10 that I ran, so guessing it is 14 or 16? I am not using a KeyLOC or LC2i, but if I decided to add it later, I'm fairly sure the 10 that I ran can handle the small additional load.
 

P.C

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Those running the kicker hideaway…are you using the 10/14 gauge power wire that comes with it and running it to the battery??

Are you using a kicker keyLOC or lc2i and powering it from that dinky wire as well (bridging it from the hideaway to the keyLOC/lc2i)?

I got a 4awg wiring kit to run from the battery but having a heck of a time trying to figure out the best way to attach these small gauge wires to the 4 gauge.
You can use a small distribution block. Run the 4 gauge in one side and your smaller gauge wire out the other side.
 

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rugedraw

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Well, after three different vehicles and over 5 years of getting its butt kicked, my amp finally decided it has had enough. I bought my Massive Audio N3 monoblock amp over 5 years ago used on OfferUp for $100. I must say, I cannot think of a better $100 I have spent in my entire life.

With that said, I will be replacing it with another MA monoblock that makes a little more power. Not that I need it, but I am a strong believer in making your speakers work harder than your amp. I just ordered this one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154727769502?hash=item24067e659e:g:Of8AAOSwsPBhpxTm

Once I get it and wire everything up, I will report back to how it sounds. I am sure I won't be disappointed.
 

Rodoni

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Those with the kicker keyLOC, did you have any troubles tuning/setting it? I seem to get to the full test part just fine but my lights don’t go with the PDF (IE LED 2 10-20 sec, then LED 3 30-90 sec). It says most finish in 3-8 minutes but after 10 min I’ve still been on LED 3. Just wondering if I have to wait the full 22 min or how long did it take you? I have it tapped into the stock sub wires after the amp, volume 14, settings back to stock, etc.

You’re supposed to install the keyLOC, set it up and then hook up your amp/sub right? Or should I be doing this process with the hideaway connected and running as well?

*edit* ended up trying at 3/4 volume and it went through first try. I was trying to do it at 14 because I saw a post from SGS that said to do it at 14. Now I have to track down why the hideaway isn’t getting power…
 
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BoostIt

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Okay, so sent the Powerbass door(front w/tweeters, and back door) speakers back a couple months ago. Ordered up Kicker CS(I'd probably go KS after reading the comparisons, but they are quite a bit more, we'll see how after the whole enchilada comes together if I can NOT buy them!) 3-way 6 x 9s for the front door and 6.5's for the rear. Got some used F150 tweeters someone had for sale, and it sounds better. Also have the 3.5" Dayton on the center dash. Front sound stage sounds pretty good(depending on quality of production). Not much low end yet, however, so that, as well as some better sounds quality at higher volumes is next.

Looking to get the Kicker 200.4 next, and was wondering if the wiring with this would be enough for the install, or this would do:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BS1RRY8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3LLMZ9K72U9P2&psc=1

I looked at the wire harness and 200.4 that is on plugnplaykits.com, but it's $480 for the 200.4 and the wire harness. Seeing as how I can get the 200.4 for $279 or so, that seems like a lot(but made easy!).

Lastly, was kind of eye-balling the Ford Kicker 8" sub and box that comes with the 150 watt amp for use of overall installation and space. Prefer not to tear the whole truck up too much(just enough! ;-) ) How much more/less work is the Kicker HS10? I see that's an option too. I'm mainly listening to rock or guitar music, for whatever it's worth. :cool:
 

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Have to take time look at all pages I've been wanting to possibly do this. On my long list of wants
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