Removed Active Air Dam From my F-150 - DIY Writeup

[M4X]

Just wanted to say thanks to all of the contributors to this thread. I finished my 2" Bilstein 6112 level on my PowerBoost this week. I couldn't stand looking at the air dam. Honestly I don't hate the active aero aspect, but mine was taken out from a tire tread on the highway in the first month of ownership and I refuse to replace it just to have it break again since it seems rather fragile. From the input from other users here I just taped off with 1" blue painters tape and went at it with a 12v Milwaukee Hackzall and a fine toothed steel blade, it was really easy.

Looks wonderful. This is the first chrome package 14 gen truck I’ve seen and liked. It all works together very well.

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[Pelican]

So, I've been thinking about removing the air dam for a few months. I was initially hesitant about it because I didn't want the removal to turn into a big project as some have indicated they had to remove the bumper and fog lams. Anyhow, I found a youtube video that is short, to the point and shows it's NOT necessary to remove the bumper or fog lamps (see link below). I'll be removing mine this week.

 

[Pelican]

Left and right....

thanks for providing the part numbers for the shields. I just ordered them today. Cannot wait to get rid of the OEM shields.

 

[Mtnman1]

thanks for providing the part numbers for the shields. I just ordered them today. Cannot wait to get rid of the OEM shields.

Still havent put mine on.

 

[veloverland]

@M4X how on earth did you remove the nuts behind the license plate area? I got all the others, took about 3 hours just to get those.

Feeling like a fool for not just taking the bumper off to begin with. Now I'm like 5 hours cumulatively into this job, so dumb, but I'm not trimming this thing off I want it gone, along with the dumb plastic shoes around the toe hooks.

 

[Pelican]

I'm so frustrated with the air dam, I'm ready to dump my truck. My local dealer spent a couple of days looking into the rattle and replaced the piece that comes down at various speeds, but I think it's a linkage problem at the motors. I removed the air dam and motors because it was causing a rattle at various speeds. To my surprise, when the motors are removed, an emissions light appears on the dash. I'm not sure what makes me more frustrated, the rattle or the emissions light, but I'm tired of having to think about this. This is my very first new vehicle and at $70k I shouldn't have to climb under it to do anything. After removing the air dam and motors, I decided reinstall everything. I think I'm going to take it back to he dealer andas them to replace the motors. I also installed the cleaner looking rear wheel wind deflectors like so many others are doing. In the end, I expect my new truck feel and sound like a new truck going down the road, but instead it sounds just slightly better than my 2002 Ford Ranger with 200k miles that I sold to get this truck. If I could have fit an F-250 in my garage, I would have bought it. Suprisingly, the F-250 was a Lariat SC like my F-150 and it was slightly less expensive than my truck. It's days like this that I regret my purchase and when I make the payment each month.

Thank you for letting me vent.

 

[veloverland]

Ok so it is possible to remove the non-active air dam (the permanent one above the active one) without removing the bumper. But I had to get creative to access the bolts behind the license plate area.

If you cut out the flimsy piece of plastic below the license plate that covers up the top of the clip screws, you can access them to remove the nuts. To access the two on the sides by the tow hooks which you can't reach from the top I came in from the side after removing the tow hooks.

It takes time, but it is possible. I recommend a small 10mm ratchet wrench that you can reach in from the side.

Personally I think if you have a black bumper (not chrome or paint-matched) it just looks better to remove the whole thing and remove the tow hook hoods. Then you can repaint the tow hooks, etc.

So, to summarize the steps to actually remove the ~18 nuts required to remove the permanent air dam without removing the bumper:

1. remove the active air dam (easy, takes 30-60min depending on the tools you have and your access)
2. remove the fog lights so you can access the nuts that sit under them from the front of the truck
3. free the permanent dam on both sides so you can remove the tow hook hoods and tow hooks to access the nuts on the side behind license plate area
4. cut into the piece of plastic above the nuts behind license plate area and remove it. this is a cheap and flimsy piece that does not appear to serve any purpose and is occluded by the license plate, so i did not sweat removing it.
5. remove the nuts behind license plate, cut the plastic clip in the middle
6. pull the permanent air dam off

2-6 took me ~4 hours cumulatively. could be cut down to 2 hours with the right tools and good access. just be patient, it's worth it.

 

[powerboatr]

I'm so frustrated with the air dam, I'm ready to dump my truck. My local dealer spent a couple of days looking into the rattle and replaced the piece that comes down at various speeds, but I think it's a linkage problem at the motors. I removed the air dam and motors because it was causing a rattle at various speeds. To my surprise, when the motors are removed, an emissions light appears on the dash. I'm not sure what makes me more frustrated, the rattle or the emissions light, but I'm tired of having to think about this. This is my very first new vehicle and at $70k I shouldn't have to climb under it to do anything. After removing the air dam and motors, I decided reinstall everything. I think I'm going to take it back to he dealer andas them to replace the motors. I also installed the cleaner looking rear wheel wind deflectors like so many others are doing. In the end, I expect my new truck feel and sound like a new truck going down the road, but instead it sounds just slightly better than my 2002 Ford Ranger with 200k miles that I sold to get this truck. If I could have fit an F-250 in my garage, I would have bought it. Suprisingly, the F-250 was a Lariat SC like my F-150 and it was slightly less expensive than my truck. It's days like this that I regret my purchase and when I make the payment each month.

Thank you for letting me vent.

i will add
when i put on my front hitch i removed the moveable part and the MOTORS
a few weeks went by an di was using forscan and it had many DTCs for the motors, side detection, etc. it did interfere with lane centering or acc but the dtcs prevailed and would not clear
so i put the motors back in. dtc went away

as for noise with lower part removed???? even with my hearing aids i cant tell a difference.
i am waiting on spring with nicer weather to clean up some behind hitch air flow.
but i saw zero difference in mpg i actually saw it go up from 18 to 19.3 and 22 on highway over long duration runs at 75 or so
its of my opinion the truck is in 4A 90% of time and the air foil did little to change mpg on my truck
it might for 2wd and lowered vehicles
my gone 21 f250 had the snow plow air dam and it ..despite all the complaints from super duty folks, held up well , even after plowing through some deep red mud.
i figured it if got popped off , i would put on a 2wd or tremor one in its place

 

[Pelican]

i will add
when i put on my front hitch i removed the moveable part and the MOTORS
a few weeks went by an di was using forscan and it had many DTCs for the motors, side detection, etc. it did interfere with lane centering or acc but the dtcs prevailed and would not clear
so i put the motors back in. dtc went away

as for noise with lower part removed???? even with my hearing aids i cant tell a difference.
i am waiting on spring with nicer weather to clean up some behind hitch air flow.
but i saw zero difference in mpg i actually saw it go up from 18 to 19.3 and 22 on highway over long duration runs at 75 or so
its of my opinion the truck is in 4A 90% of time and the air foil did little to change mpg on my truck
it might for 2wd and lowered vehicles
my gone 21 f250 had the snow plow air dam and it ..despite all the complaints from super duty folks, held up well , even after plowing through some deep red mud.
i figured it if got popped off , i would put on a 2wd or tremor one in its place

Thank you for sharing your experience. I'm going to see if I can find a way to tighten up the linkage tomorrow to stop the rattle. I'll keep you posted. Thank you again.

 

[breimz]

Thank you for sharing your experience. I'm going to see if I can find a way to tighten up the linkage tomorrow to stop the rattle. I'll keep you posted. Thank you again.

@ Pelican - any luck with the Rattle from the Linkage or Motors? Chasing these annoying sounds as well and 90% sure it is what you are experiencing as it is mostly at above 45 mph... Thanks for your persistence and posts.

 

[powerboatr]

@ Pelican - any luck with the Rattle from the Linkage or Motors? Chasing these annoying sounds as well and 90% sure it is what you are experiencing as it is mostly at above 45 mph... Thanks for your persistence and posts.

yall must have the ears of bats..
i cant hear crap out front

 

[breimz]

yall must have the ears of bats..
i cant hear crap out front

Sounds like loose chain partying with a metal cup...you would hear it

 

[powerboatr]

Sounds like loose chain partying with a metal cup...you would hear it

are you sure its the actuators? mine are pretty dammm tight. the top bolt is a bear to get to,
i guess its good i am deaf as a stump

 

[breimz]

are you sure its the actuators? mine are pretty dammm tight. the top bolt is a bear to get to,
i guess its good i am deaf as a stump

Honestly no idea what it is...gathering evidence before the jury makes the call here and get dirty. I got under there briefly and gave it all a good shaking...motors are def a little clunky sounding sitting still in their mount or position so again just an educated guess or theory to work on before tools leave the drawers. Cheers to wrenching on brand new trucks! lol

 

[powerboatr]

Honestly no idea what it is...gathering evidence before the jury makes the call here and get dirty. I got under there briefly and gave it all a good shaking...motors are def a little clunky sounding sitting still in their mount or position so again just an educated guess or theory to work on before tools leave the drawers. Cheers to wrenching on brand new trucks! lol

the tracks on mine
i could see wiggling making noise, try cutting a pool noodle foam and stuff it in each one to hold track still and see if noise goes away
i put mine back on because they kept setting a dtc code

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