Thinking of Going with Pucks to Level My Truck. Am I Being Stupid?

[Jarm0c]

Hear me out. I have no idea if I'm going to get destroyed for this line of thinking, and I wouldn't be surprised to see some 'why did you get a truck?' comments.

I have a '21 XLT that I want to level out. The dipped nose looks terrible, and I eventually want to get some wheels and nicer AT tires. I also have a daughter who's disabled. She has brittle bone disease, so on-road comfort is pretty important. To quell some assumptions, I'm coming from a Transit 350 that was a good bit bumpier on the road—to my surprise, this truck rides much nicer!

My conundrum is deciding what I should use to level my truck. I was heavily leaning toward simply swapping out the OEM front shocks with 5100's, keeping the factory spring, etc. But everywhere I read or watch, I see some who say that the ride was rougher/stiffer/not as comfortable going from stock to 5100's. I'd really rather not lose what I know (the current ride comfort level), only to spend time and money on new front shocks and find out the comfort is worse.

I'd never considered leveling pucks, because pucks are for schmucks, right? But watching a video this morning, the host made the point that using pucks to level means you keep the stock ride feel. That seems very appealing to me, and it seems like it could be a good match for my needs. It's cheap, easy to install myself, and I know what the ride will feel like after. And if I save time and money, I can always do the more expensive options later. Also, I don't plan to do any intense off-roading, so the durability of pucks doesn't seem like it would be a huge issue.

Is there a reason I'm not considering as to why I shouldn't go with pucks?

Sponsored

 

[Zengineer]

The Gen14 trucks take a pretty big tire with no level at all. Have you considered just pulling the rear spacer block out to reduce the rake? It's a 20 minute no cost modification, reversible in the same short time, and may give you the look you want. Not sure what color your truck is but if it is light and you don't have rear wheel well liners....get some, they tone down the look as well.

 

[Joe_Lee]

I originally ordered a set of leveling struts but after riding in my son's 2019 F150 with spacers, I returned the struts and bought the 2.3" leveling spacers (pucks) from Stage 3.

I'm not an offroader, I mainly own a 4wd because I launch my boat in some areas where the ramps get slick.

I honestly cannot tell a difference in the ride but I'm not as in tune with it as some are. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Graygoose2021]

The Stage 3 doesn't ride bad at all. Its more of a welded 2.4" spacer, that goes on top of the strut, so ride is still good.

 

[TexasTruck]

First, we're sorry to hear about your daughter. I wish kids did not have to deal with things like that.

Automakers have to appeal to all buyers, like ride quality. I have no facts, just the seat of my pants experience when it comes to lifts and ride quality. You'll get lots of opinions here

I've owned several 150's/250's and modified the suspension on every one. From pucks to coil overs, drop brackets, control arms, front/rear blocks, complete leafs springs, carrier drops, wedges, pinion angles, drive shaft angles, CV joints, etc.

Some say a factory F-150 is too soft, others say it's too hard, and very few say it's just right My 2022 is too soft for me. The rear is bouncy and the front is like a '77 Eldorado. I'm looking to RR the rear leafs (or should say "leaf") with the OEM HD pack and front coil overs (wife says I'm too old for anything bigger).

Personally, on any leveling kit, I would upgrade the upper control arm too. They will make for a better alignment after you lift it. Not to mention keep the control arm from potentially hitting the spring in a wheel droop situation - YMMV.

A lot of owners run a puck leveling kit..... a lot..... they like the factory ride. Since it sounds like you like the factory ride for your daughter, go with a puck and keep the factory shocks and coils. That will level the truck out and keep the factory ride. I have never had this setup ride stiffer - ever. Binding is a different story and can contribute to a "stiffer" ride, but that's another story.

I hope this helps.

 

[antho]

I would go with what @Zengineer recommended. If you dont tow or need the extra height up front for bigger tires. Its cheaper, easier and a puck will still effect the ride somewhat.

 

[Oilberta]

Hey, Just my .02$ my last puck levelled truck was a '12 Lariat F150, put in a 2.5" rough country aluminum spacer up front, and it changed the ride quite a bit. It was rougher on the pavement I felt it the most. From my experience, anytime you lift a truck, the center of gravity is higher and is rougher, I had put a 4.5" coil lift with extended trackarms on an old 2001 Jeep XJ I had that was "tuned for offroad" BDS kit, and it rode like a covered wagon all the time. If ride quality is your top concern then avoid the puck lift and the 10 ply AT tires.

 

[Porpoise Hork]

Hear me out. I have no idea if I'm going to get destroyed for this line of thinking, and I wouldn't be surprised to see some 'why did you get a truck?' comments.

I have a '21 XLT that I want to level out. The dipped nose looks terrible, and I eventually want to get some wheels and nicer AT tires. I also have a daughter who's disabled. She has brittle bone disease, so on-road comfort is pretty important. To quell some assumptions, I'm coming from a Transit 350 that was a good bit bumpier on the road—to my surprise, this truck rides much nicer!

My conundrum is deciding what I should use to level my truck. I was heavily leaning toward simply swapping out the OEM front shocks with 5100's, keeping the factory spring, etc. But everywhere I read or watch, I see some who say that the ride was rougher/stiffer/not as comfortable going from stock to 5100's. I'd really rather not lose what I know (the current ride comfort level), only to spend time and money on new front shocks and find out the comfort is worse.

I'd never considered leveling pucks, because pucks are for schmucks, right? But watching a video this morning, the host made the point that using pucks to level means you keep the stock ride feel. That seems very appealing to me, and it seems like it could be a good match for my needs. It's cheap, easy to install myself, and I know what the ride will feel like after. And if I save time and money, I can always do the more expensive options later. Also, I don't plan to do any intense off-roading, so the durability of pucks doesn't seem like it would be a huge issue.

Is there a reason I'm not considering as to why I shouldn't go with pucks?

You can go with either the pucks or the 5100's The biggest change with the 5100s will be the significant reduction in rebound damping over Ford's dampers but some may say they are a bit firmer than stock. Ford under-valved the rebound so it's rather soft allowing for a boat-ish like ride. You can also upgrade the front struts with 4600's (if you can find them) and use pucks. The 4600's will offer a near identical overall ride to OEM but does a much better job at handling the rebound issue.

 

[Zyvin]

pull the spacers from the rear. Stay away from LT tires if you want a better ride. Nitto makes the G2 in 275/65/20 P rated tire (not sure if you have 18s or 20s), that way you get a better looking tire without the stiffness.

 

[Rockman5159]

Hear me out. I have no idea if I'm going to get destroyed for this line of thinking, and I wouldn't be surprised to see some 'why did you get a truck?' comments.

I have a '21 XLT that I want to level out. The dipped nose looks terrible, and I eventually want to get some wheels and nicer AT tires. I also have a daughter who's disabled. She has brittle bone disease, so on-road comfort is pretty important. To quell some assumptions, I'm coming from a Transit 350 that was a good bit bumpier on the road—to my surprise, this truck rides much nicer!

My conundrum is deciding what I should use to level my truck. I was heavily leaning toward simply swapping out the OEM front shocks with 5100's, keeping the factory spring, etc. But everywhere I read or watch, I see some who say that the ride was rougher/stiffer/not as comfortable going from stock to 5100's. I'd really rather not lose what I know (the current ride comfort level), only to spend time and money on new front shocks and find out the comfort is worse.

I'd never considered leveling pucks, because pucks are for schmucks, right? But watching a video this morning, the host made the point that using pucks to level means you keep the stock ride feel. That seems very appealing to me, and it seems like it could be a good match for my needs. It's cheap, easy to install myself, and I know what the ride will feel like after. And if I save time and money, I can always do the more expensive options later. Also, I don't plan to do any intense off-roading, so the durability of pucks doesn't seem like it would be a huge issue.

Is there a reason I'm not considering as to why I shouldn't go with pucks?

I've had 3 Gen 14 Ford F150s . I leveled 2 with pucks and one with A Brand name leveling strut. I'll have to say in my experience,the pucks actually ride more like stock than the replacement strut.

 

[Jarm0c]

The Gen14 trucks take a pretty big tire with no level at all. Have you considered just pulling the rear spacer block out to reduce the rake? It's a 20 minute no cost modification, reversible in the same short time, and may give you the look you want. Not sure what color your truck is but if it is light and you don't have rear wheel well liners....get some, they tone down the look as well.

I had no idea that was even a thing, but I'm a sucker for the higher ride height. Maybe it's because I'm a shorter guy haha.

I originally ordered a set of leveling struts but after riding in my son's 2019 F150 with spacers, I returned the struts and bought the 2.3" leveling spacers (pucks) from Stage 3.

I'm not an offroader, I mainly own a 4wd because I launch my boat in some areas where the ramps get slick.

I honestly cannot tell a difference in the ride but I'm not as in tune with it as some are. Just my 2 cents.

Appreciate the input! I think the puck spacers are what I'm going to start with and see how they feel.

The Stage 3 doesn't ride bad at all. Its more of a welded 2.4" spacer, that goes on top of the strut, so ride is still good.

Thanks! Stage 3 is the main one I've been looking at...

First, we're sorry to hear about your daughter. I wish kids did not have to deal with things like that.

Automakers have to appeal to all buyers, like ride quality. I have no facts, just the seat of my pants experience when it comes to lifts and ride quality. You'll get lots of opinions here

I've owned several 150's/250's and modified the suspension on every one. From pucks to coil overs, drop brackets, control arms, front/rear blocks, complete leafs springs, carrier drops, wedges, pinion angles, drive shaft angles, CV joints, etc.

Some say a factory F-150 is too soft, others say it's too hard, and very few say it's just right My 2022 is too soft for me. The rear is bouncy and the front is like a '77 Eldorado. I'm looking to RR the rear leafs (or should say "leaf") with the OEM HD pack and front coil overs (wife says I'm too old for anything bigger).

Personally, on any leveling kit, I would upgrade the upper control arm too. They will make for a better alignment after you lift it. Not to mention keep the control arm from potentially hitting the spring in a wheel droop situation - YMMV.

A lot of owners run a puck leveling kit..... a lot..... they like the factory ride. Since it sounds like you like the factory ride for your daughter, go with a puck and keep the factory shocks and coils. That will level the truck out and keep the factory ride. I have never had this setup ride stiffer - ever. Binding is a different story and can contribute to a "stiffer" ride, but that's another story.

I hope this helps.

Personally, I also think it's too soft for a truck. Very boaty feel, at least in my 4wd FX4 configuration. But that too-soft feeling makes it a great option for us, even with my daughter's condition. I guess it's a win-win!

You can go with either the pucks or the 5100's The biggest change with the 5100s will be the significant reduction in rebound damping over Ford's dampers but some may say they are a bit firmer than stock. Ford under-valved the rebound so it's rather soft allowing for a boat-ish like ride. You can also upgrade the front struts with 4600's (if you can find them) and use pucks. The 4600's will offer a near identical overall ride to OEM but does a much better job at handling the rebound issue.

Hadn't thought of the combo of 4600s and pucks. I'm thinking I'll go with the pucks now and see how things feel. Maybe add the aftermarket struts at a later time (I plan on keeping the truck for a number of years).

I've had 3 Gen 14 Ford F150s . I leveled 2 with pucks and one with A Brand name leveling strut. I'll have to say in my experience,the pucks actually ride more like stock than the replacement strut.

Good to know! My main goals are 1) get rid of the silly rake and 2) not mess with the current ride feel. If I can make room for some slightly larger tires, then even better.

 

[Porpoise Hork]

Hadn't thought of the combo of 4600s and pucks. I'm thinking I'll go with the pucks now and see how things feel. Maybe add the aftermarket struts at a later time (I plan on keeping the truck for a number of years).

I had that setup on my 20 Ranger and it was perfect. The 4600's killed the pogo-stick rolling boat issue of the oem FX dampers but otherwise were no firmer than oem. My wife HATES it when the ride is too firm. ( I know.. Phrasing) She flat out refused to ride in my 08 GTI because it was to harsh for her, but she loved the ride in the Ranger after I put the 4600's in it. She also likes the F150 ride with 5100's in the rear only. Still need to sort out the fronts but I'll probably go with 4600's (Part Number: 24-323796 ) up there since it still bounces a bit with the FX dampers.

Adding just the pucks won't really change the ride quality at all, but since you will already have the struts out to install them you may as well take 10 extra minutes to swap the dampers out as well. If you're doing the work yourself you will definitely want to get it realigned as the toe angle will be way off.

Sponsored