2.0kw pro power working on RV airconditioner

[HammaMan]

yes i have a softstarter.
that is an idea i have thought about because i have a strong battery with a strong inverter and i was wondering if there was some way my battery could "help" get the compressor going. but at that point i feel like its just not worth it. ill size up one on the propower if i get another ford.

Another option to look at is one of the parallelable inverters. There's quite a few out there that aren't marketed. Unfortunately to use them requires a darwin cord which can be made safer by a breaker.

Consider upgrading your RV inverter so that it can power your AC and other loads. Even better if you find one that will accept a 'grid' input where you can dial in the current it tries to pull.

If you find one, what you'll do is basically keep the truck going at whatever max current it's happy with, when the AC isn't running the compressor, the excess energy goes into the batteries, when it's time for the AC to turn on, power is pulled from the batteries to start it up and if there's additional energy after it's started, that power is diverted to the batteries.

Oh, they make a variant of the 150 called the powerboost, I went that route myself because 7.2kW onboard pure sine inverter

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[minirx7]

So i got my 2KW and i have the microair soft start for my Jayco's 13.5 AC. In fact i specifically ordered the 13.5 AC instead fo 15K AC beucase i feared my truck couldnt power the 15K.

I tested everyting and even with teh converter fuse turned off and all otehr appliances off, it wont start (note that wattage never really peaks above 2000watts). It is defintely a voltage drop that prevents the AC running. In fact, i cannot even power my microwave from teh truck. HOWever i know my generator works becuase i can power a leaf blower and everythign else no problem.


I really tried to keep my payload up as my trailer loaded with my family hits the limits of my payload (i refused the roof, B&O unleashed, FX4, even when my dealer offered it for free just to keep my payload up). My Lariat 502A Screw Maxtow has a payload of 1740lbs.

But i added the 2kw which adds batteries (another alternator think) and the invertor which annoys me to no end due ot the fan noise. I guarantee this added another 40lbs or so. Plus ibought the micro air too. I would have been better off with just buying a regular 2.2KW generator or even a battery pack (like the ANKER) than this nonssense.


SIgh.

 

[Daltonn]

RV air conditioners in the contemporary market exhibit impressive efficiency, boasting an Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) of 10 or greater. The following section outlines the prevalent wattage ranges corresponding to different RV AC sizes and their respective power draw. Notably, 13,500 and 15,000 BTU ACs are the preferred options among RV enthusiasts.

 

[MamboMinnow]

I have the 2.4 generator and it would trip the breaker if fan speed on camper was any higher than halfway

 

[Derekmson]

The difficulty in starting your 13,500 BTU portable RV air conditioner on smaller generators like the 2200-watt Honda and even your F-150 truck may be due to a combination of factors. Despite adding a soft start capacitor to reduce the initial power surge, these air conditioners can still strain generators during startup. The pulsing and fading of digital clocks suggest power instability.
It's possible that the truck's power output may not provide a clean sine wave inverter, which is critical for sensitive devices like air conditioners. Additionally, wiring and voltage drop issues in your RV can further exacerbate the problem.

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