Has anyone drilled into their roof yet?

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I've read this entire thread and lots of helpful info. I have only two things:

1. Why not go with a ladder rack type option? I have a full ladder rack for 16ft and longer lumber. But also use it for our 11ft paddle board. I have seen non-cabover racks that might handle your kayak\canoe and travel tote?

2. ....and I accept this is just me and probably a narrow minded opinion, but I won't ever buy an auto that has drill holes through the body panels. Something to think about when you go to resell this truck. You might be limiting future buyers.... maybe.

This cab roof rack system I'm fleshing out is part of a bigger build with lots of various considerations at play. I had considered a ladder rack setup. Ultimately this truck is going to have the Diamond Back bed cover and that limits my rack options. I do a lot of work with construction/home renovations and need to keep bed as accessible as possible. Tossing things on the roof helps keep items out of the way essentially.

As for drilling into the roof, this is my ride until I die truck so resale is not a consideration.
Of course I do hesitate to drill into the roof which is why I am trying to crowdsource knowledge before doing so. =)

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[somecatchyphrase]

This hard mounted rack looks awesome and uses the rain gutter to mount the feet. Not as quick to remove as the track style, but interesting that they are using the rain gutter with rivet nuts.

I saw that video as well, probably the most useful demonstrations about drilling into the roof. The rack is sexy but crossbars are best for my uses. I may give them a call and see if they are willing to give any tips about drilling into the roof.

I think I would prefer mounting tracks to the roof gutters for what seems to be the most low profile/strongest solution but @Rineland made some good points I must take into consideration before utilizing that space.

If it comes down to it I'll just make a pilgrimage to Rack Attack and have them do the install.

 

[somecatchyphrase]

Here are a few pics from the Rack Attack website showing permanent mount tracks on the roofs of our generation of F150. They all seem to be mounted on the ridge with the green arrow as outboard as possible.

 

[notabot]

I saw that video as well, probably the most useful demonstrations about drilling into the roof.

Very thorough install video! Excellent attention to detail, especially using the drill bit stop!
One ding - No backing washers on the rivets. I would drop the headliner and make sure the rivet has more surface area in front of the crimp. I would put a 1" diameter aluminum fender washer against the interior of the roof skin.

Minor updates would be to fill the rivet head with silicone and use blue loctite on the bolts/screws.

 

[TheArborist]

I really like the track idea!

I went full Front Runner roof rack and ran into a few snags:

1 - The aluminum rivet nuts are soft and easy to wreck if not gentle. I had to pull away the roof liner to drill one out and replace it. Make sure you have extra!

2 - I tried the Permatex Windshield sealant and found it was not the answer for my application. The one recommended to me was the "flowable" silicone and was thin like super glue. I could not control where it ended up and turned to the Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker recommended by another rack installer.

I've had the rack on the truck since December and no trouble through a really cold winter and a really wet spring/summer.

 

[somecatchyphrase]

I really like the track idea!

I went full Front Runner roof rack and ran into a few snags:

1 - The aluminum rivet nuts are soft and easy to wreck if not gentle. I had to pull away the roof liner to drill one out and replace it. Make sure you have extra!

2 - I tried the Permatex Windshield sealant and found it was not the answer for my application. The one recommended to me was the "flowable" silicone and was thin like super glue. I could not control where it ended up and turned to the Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker recommended by another rack installer.

I've had the rack on the truck since December and no trouble through a really cold winter and a really wet spring/summer.

Thanks for that insight. Where do the Front Runner feet attach to the roof at? Also, did you need to fully drop the roof liner or were you able to peel back just the sides?

I have been doing an embarrassing amount of research into this and this Loctite product keeps coming up as the "best" sealant to use: https://a.co/d/cROvURv

 

[TheArborist]

Thanks for that insight. Where do the Front Runner feet attach to the roof at? Also, did you need to fully drop the roof liner or were you able to peel back just the sides?

I have been doing an embarrassing amount of research into this and this Loctite product keeps coming up as the "best" sealant to use: https://a.co/d/cROvURv

The feet sit in the roof gutter. I had to cut circles and remove parts of the sealant strip to install the rivet nuts.

I was able to peel back just the edge of the roof liner but looking just now I see I got lucky with the rivet that broke above the front door. The middle and rear ones are not accessible due to the overlap of the aluminum..

 

[somecatchyphrase]

Hello again all, this is still a work in progress for me but here are a few updates:

• I've been communicating a lot with Rack Attack and am settling on the idea of using a Thule/Yakima 54in track with plus nuts for a permanent mount cab roof system.
• As of now the parts list is:
  • Yakima Track Tower
    • Seems to be a newer product, not much info out there. I like that it is lower profile and stronger than the traditional Yakima landing pad + skyline tower setup
      • I do not yet know but I am concerned that the track tower option is so low profile there will not be enough clearance between the top curvature of the roof and the bars I mount. I use the Rhino Rack Side Loader to solo load my huge canoe on the cab. I rate the use of this particular product to be essential for my setup so if I there is not enough clearance to brace the side loader without damaging the roof then I will revert to the more traditional landing pad + tower setup
        • A big advantage of the landing pad + tower setup is the ability to quick release the crossbars. As stated earlier in the thread I found the wind noise to be quite annoying and really like the idea of a quick disconnect option.
    • Yakima Track with Plus Nuts
      • Rack Attack tells me that the Thule tracks are more low profile than Yakima. I cannot find the exact dimensions of the Thule tracks anywhere. Nor can I find if there is any difference in strength with the lower profile option. To be determined.
    • Yakima HD Bar with appropriate adapter

I am ~still~ trying to talk myself into/out of doing this install on my own. I consider myself a competent DIYer and there is a sense of pride/satisfaction out of doing most the work on my truck myself. However, Rack Attack said they could do it for $275. Not bad considering I would need to buy a few extras to be able to complete the project on my own.

• I would get a piece of sheet metal to do a few practice runs on. I don't want my first time using a plus nut to be on the roof of my truck. On that note, does anyone know the thickness of our roofs?

 

[somecatchyphrase]

Very thorough install video! Excellent attention to detail, especially using the drill bit stop!
One ding - No backing washers on the rivets. I would drop the headliner and make sure the rivet has more surface area in front of the crimp. I would put a 1" diameter aluminum fender washer against the interior of the roof skin.

Minor updates would be to fill the rivet head with silicone and use blue loctite on the bolts/screws.

@notabot Do you mind elaborating on "no backing washers on the rivets?" Do you mean that a washer (what type of material?) should have been installed between the roof exterior and the top head of the collapsed rivnut?

I'm considering sourcing my own hardware kit for the install. I've gathered on various forums that a popular mod is to use Thread Sealing Closed-End Rivet Nuts which claim " The thread area is enclosed, which prevents leakage past the threads from either side of your application. These rivet nuts have a ribbed body to hold them in place when tightening a screw. The body and flange are zinc yellow-chromate plated steel for corrosion resistance." https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/129/3729/98280A340

@Rineland Do you have any experience with these type of rivnuts or see any downsides? In my mind it is just extra insurance for one less area for potential water intrusion.

 

[Rineland]

@notabot Do you mind elaborating on "no backing washers on the rivets?" Do you mean that a washer (what type of material?) should have been installed between the roof exterior and the top head of the collapsed rivnut?

I'm considering sourcing my own hardware kit for the install. I've gathered on various forums that a popular mod is to use Thread Sealing Closed-End Rivet Nuts which claim " The thread area is enclosed, which prevents leakage past the threads from either side of your application. These rivet nuts have a ribbed body to hold them in place when tightening a screw. The body and flange are zinc yellow-chromate plated steel for corrosion resistance." https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/129/3729/98280A340

@Rineland Do you have any experience with these type of rivnuts or see any downsides? In my mind it is just extra insurance for one less area for potential water intrusion.

The closed end will definitely be nice to not have to worry about sealing up each rivet nut. The only concerns I have initially are the possibility for dissimilar materials and potential for galvanic corrosion and the effort to install the steel rivet nuts instead of the provided aluminum ones that come with the track kit. Regarding the galvanic corrosion potential, I see this as a very low risk because you're going to be coating the rivet nuts with silicone, or window weld, or some type of sealant which will isolate it from the surrounding metal. In terms of effort for installing the rivet nuts, you could invest in a tool to make it easier, or just practice with the wrench driven tool prior to "doing it live" on your actual roof.

One last consideration would be the installed length and making sure there's clearance to the headliner. It's been awhile since I pulled mine down but IIRC you should have space.

 

[somecatchyphrase]

Hello again to all following this thread. This thread was vital in helping me make the best decisions possible based on my needs. I have the roof racks installed now. The post detailing the outcome can be found here:

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/thr...t-on-yakima-roof-rack-installed-review.21771/

 

[notabot]

End product looks great!

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