New battery; H7 or H8?

[Sojourner]

Me being a Debbie Downer, I guess.

I ordered the BM2 and then canceled after reading the privacy policy for the app. I understand everyone hoovers, but the BM2 app's policy seemed a bit too much (especially for a company I've never heard of). Wound up going with the more expensive Ancel unit. Still Chinese, but privacy policy seemed much more "normal" and the company more well-known.

YMMV

Well, stupid me. I bought the Ancel and installed the app. Despite the fancy, different look it's still the BM2 at heart.

Will now have to figure out how to block (on Android) the domains @M.R.F.O.R.D. mentioned in #73 (above). Also, will follow the idea (from the thread he linked to) of using the BM2 on a older, or longer used modded Fire Tablet or older phone (and only at home). The article that @Highway 11 linked to start that thread is really concerning. Not just for BM2, but apps in general.

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[Bo15]

Me being a Debbie Downer, I guess.

I ordered the BM2 and then canceled after reading the privacy policy for the app. I understand everyone hoovers, but the BM2 app's policy seemed a bit too much (especially for a company I've never heard of). Wound up going with the more expensive Ancel unit. Still Chinese, but privacy policy seemed much more "normal" and the company more well-known.

YMMV

Thanks. amazon has an 18% off coupon for the Ancel unit so just a little more than the BM2 . I just ordered the Ancel.

 

[Rineland]

Changes made. While updating the SOC at 726-08-02 I had a thought. Stock value was 05 00, which in hex is 1280. The spreadsheet shows that this value is divided by 16 to give you 80. 05 A0 is 1440, divided by 16 is 90. Are we sure this is a percentage, rather than target voltage to the hundredths place? ie 1280 = 12.80V, 1440 = 14.40V. Not that this change has seemed to do anything, but where is the division by 16 coming from?

The other curious thing is that I hooked up a solar charger to the battery to top it off (my neighbor has my NOCO charging up his new H8 before he installs it). I noticed that when placing the clamps on a chassis ground the charge controller recognized a voltage of 14.2V, so it didn't charge. When I placed the clamps directly on the battery terminals it registered 11.9V and began charging. It was almost like the BMS reported back a higher voltage to say "no thank you, this battery is already charged enough".

I've got a 3 hour drive tonight up to camp. I plan to check voltage before I leave and when I get there, and again in the morning. I plan to do the same thing when I get back. This should provide a few quick data points to make sure I'm not overcharging it. I'll continue to monitor it long term as well to see where it settles. Hopefully it's better than the 12.0-12.2V I've experienced lately.

Following up after making these changes and the driving I did this weekend. I'm hovering between 12.4 and 12.5, so definitely an improvement. The truck will be sitting for a little over a week while I'm on vacation so I'll check it when I get back next week. I'll be getting either the BM2 or Ancel on order so I can install it when I get back and have a little better data to report (who doesn't love a nice graph?).

 

[Pops]

Ok, my truck started doing some strange things also With h6 battery. remote start didnt work during a week of 10 degree weather and it started with the button but didn’t want to. Had to charge it. Cold mornings front windows wouldn’t roll up or down Twice. My wife noticed auto stopstart quit working. Started watching voltage holding 11.93-11.98 volts in the morning. Didnt start first time this morning so took it in battery was replaced with h7 800 cca auto start stop worked before I left the lot.

 

[redline]

I just put h7 in my truck today ….

 

[dmac]

I just put a walmart AGM H8 in my 22 2 days ago. I had forgotten how wonderful it is to start the truck without seeing any trailer brake, or driver assist warnings pop up in the cluster.

Hopefully this helps my power steering loss issues...

 

[Fox146]

Really don’t know why Ford even uses the H6’s. Modern vehicles have so much electronics and then add in hot/cold conditions. Just stick with the H7/8’s and they could potentially avoid a lot of customer frustration. I spent my own money on a new H7/800cca when I bought my truck last year and haven’t had any issues since, even in -40

Edit: im sure they use them because they’re cheaper but my point is still ,don’t and save some hassle with customers

 

[Rineland]

Reporting in after changing the battery type to Flooded Lead Acid in forscan. I bought the ANCEL BT monitor to check voltage over time and get a reading without waking the truck up to open the hood. After most driving runs it sits at about 12.45V. It loses about 0.3V over the course of 24 hours. Charging while driving, it tends to peg at 15V and stays there for quite awhile. I’m not sure what the behavior was with the stock AGM battery setting but I plan to change back to AGM and take a look at that with the BT monitor. I’ll report on those findings and hopefully conclude if one is better than the other or indifferent.

@Snakebitten regarding the BT monitor, do you have yours connected before the BMS shunt or after? Mine is connected to the post on top of the shunt, so I would consider it after, monitoring the truck side. I was debating whether I should connect it directly to the negative post. I wasn’t sure if that BMS shunt is capable of restricting current flow/voltage to the battery and maybe that 15V isn’t getting to the battery the entire time while the truck is on. Perhaps another variable in the experiment to try.

 

[Ghurst]

I’m going out today to get a new battery for my 21. I’m still deciding between the H7 and H8 but either one had to be better than the H6. Will the blanket off the h6 work with the H7? If not…. I guess I’ll just get the H8. It also looks like I might need to remove some of the tape from the wires to get enough length for the added width of the h8. Have you guys had to do that as well? Thanks

 

[Blue22]

I’m going out today to get a new battery for my 21. I’m still deciding between the H7 and H8 but either one had to be better than the H6. Will the blanket off the h6 work with the H7? If not…. I guess I’ll just get the H8. It also looks like I might need to remove some of the tape from the wires to get enough length for the added width of the h8. Have you guys had to do that as well? Thanks

If you go with an H7, I'm pretty sure the blanket will fit although you may have to stretch it a little which may negatively impact it's insulation properties a little. Personally I would go with the biggest battery that will fit in the tray. Not sure of the price difference but I assume it's not that much more.

 

[Brad34]

Personally I would go with the biggest battery that will fit in the tray. Not sure of the price difference but I assume it's not that much more.

Both my nearest Walmart and Costco charge the same price for H7 and H8. No reason not to go H8 if it fits.

I did not have to make any modifications to the wires to go from H6 to H8.

 

[Ghurst]

Both my nearest Walmart and Costco charge the same price for H7 and H8. No reason not to go H8 if it fits.

I did not have to make any modifications to the wires to go from H6 to H8.

Went with the H8. I cut the battery blanket and secured it with a cable tie. I did have to remove the tape that had the positive cable tab that secured it to the battery tray. Other than that…. It fit like a glove lol

 

[AussieSteveGuy]

Did anyone with Powerboost go with H8. Or just stick with H7?

 

[Rineland]

Reporting in after changing the battery type to Flooded Lead Acid in forscan. I bought the ANCEL BT monitor to check voltage over time and get a reading without waking the truck up to open the hood. After most driving runs it sits at about 12.45V. It loses about 0.3V over the course of 24 hours. Charging while driving, it tends to peg at 15V and stays there for quite awhile. I’m not sure what the behavior was with the stock AGM battery setting but I plan to change back to AGM and take a look at that with the BT monitor. I’ll report on those findings and hopefully conclude if one is better than the other or indifferent.

@Snakebitten regarding the BT monitor, do you have yours connected before the BMS shunt or after? Mine is connected to the post on top of the shunt, so I would consider it after, monitoring the truck side. I was debating whether I should connect it directly to the negative post. I wasn’t sure if that BMS shunt is capable of restricting current flow/voltage to the battery and maybe that 15V isn’t getting to the battery the entire time while the truck is on. Perhaps another variable in the experiment to try.

Welp, this change did not have the desired effect of preventing OTA failures. I've been trying to install 23-PU0813-DOR-UP2 and have failed multiple times, even with a NOCO 10 connected. I've charged the battery overnight by connecting to the chassis ground so the BMS sees the charge going in. No go. I then tried connecting directly to the battery and charging overnight. No go. I then put the NOCO 10 in supply mode and connected it directly to the top of the BMS. No go. The battery is definitely fully charged so my next move is to reset the BMS and reschedule the update yet again. I don't think this update is drastically important but it's still not promising that even with the changes and charging the battery up that the OTA is still failing.

 

[Big Dog Daddy]

@Rineland this may be a stupid question, but was the hood shut and latched prior to the scheduled install time?

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