Electronic Throttle Body Error Code

[rdalev]

While running errands this past weekend, my 2021 XLT FX4 with the 5.0 at 12,000 miles, starting throwing warnings and running rough. Eventually warnings disappeared leaving only the engine light on.
In the Ford Pass app it states " The engine control system has detected the electronic throttle body may be stuck closed or binding as the throttle sensor indicated it was open further than commanded. This fault may disable the engine start/stop feature, if equipped."

Truck is in shop now and waiting to hear from them.
Has anyone else run into this problem? Have been running nothing but premium here and only add on's are a Roush CAI and a cat-back dual exhaust system.

Thanks for any replies!

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[canes1]

At 12,000 miles Ford had to replace entire throttle body.
No reason was given for it going out.

 

[64Wing]

I shredded a throttle body in my fusion at 140k miles or so. The throttle position sensor will only allow a 5 degree mismatch before throwing a code. I replaced it myself and opened the actual throttle body to see why it failed. Turns out there is a plastic gear being driven by the drive gear which is metal. The teeth on the output gear were completely gone about 1/3 of the circumference. Cost me $147 and an hour of my time.

No idea why they'd have a plastic gear in there. Oh, wait... because money

 

[Grafx36510]

I shredded a throttle body in my fusion at 140k miles or so. The throttle position sensor will only allow a 5 degree mismatch before throwing a code. I replaced it myself and opened the actual throttle body to see why it failed. Turns out there is a plastic gear being driven by the drive gear which is metal. The teeth on the output gear were completely gone about 1/3 of the circumference. Cost me $147 and an hour of my time.

No idea why they'd have a plastic gear in there. Oh, wait... because money

I say the same thing when replacing gears on industrial equipment that costs many, many times more than a vehicle. The explanation I’m always given is that it’s sacrificial. They’d rather the plastic break which is a more economical repair than metal on metal which would cause more damage and thus a more expensive repair.

 

[64Wing]

I say the same thing when replacing gears on industrial equipment that costs many, many times more than a vehicle. The explanation I’m always given is that it’s sacrificial. They’d rather the plastic break which is a more economical repair than metal on metal which would cause more damage and thus a more expensive repair.

Thing is, in this case, the drive & output gears are sealed from the shaft splines so a failure can't be ingested by the intake. So the entire throttle body assembly gets replaced. I'd be all about being able to replace the actual gears inside for a couple bucks.

First indication of trouble I got was a slight variable RPM oscillation while maintaining about 40mph. It went on for several months. Then one night I was headed to town and the car seemed like it just kicked the cruise control off. When I pressed the gas pedal I didn't get any pull, so I shifted to neutral and tried again to make sure it wasn't a transmission problem. When I saw that there was no tach response in neutral I used my momentum to pull into my buddy's driveway, which was fortunately a few hundred yards away. Once stopped, the engine barely wanted to run.

I thought maybe I'd nuked a turbo, and by extension the engine itself. Fortunately not!

I actually did a little write up about it with pictures detailing the removal & replacement in case anyone needs it...cuz I'm a nerd

 

[Grafx36510]

Thing is, in this case, the drive & output gears are sealed from the shaft splines so a failure can't be ingested by the intake. So the entire throttle body assembly gets replaced. I'd be all about being able to replace the actual gears inside for a couple bucks.

First indication of trouble I got was a slight variable RPM oscillation while maintaining about 40mph. It went on for several months. Then one night I was headed to town and the car seemed like it just kicked the cruise control off. When I pressed the gas pedal I didn't get any pull, so I shifted to neutral and tried again to make sure it wasn't a transmission problem. When I saw that there was no tach response in neutral I used my momentum to pull into my buddy's driveway, which was fortunately a few hundred yards away. Once stopped, the engine barely wanted to run.

I thought maybe I'd nuked a turbo, and by extension the engine itself. Fortunately not!

I actually did a little write up about it with pictures detailing the removal & replacement in case anyone needs it...cuz I'm a nerd

I get it. It’s kinda the same situation with the machines. They aren’t in the drive or bearing run, in fact they’re outside the frame under covers. All I can do is shake my head and pay the 150 for a new bevel gear. (Mainly because one is more susceptible to breaking than the other 15 in the machine). By all means nerd away, I do the same.

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