Stealth Build featuring SGS Integration (2400 Watt Skar VD 12s)

[brfertig]

I have the B&O (302A) system. Its the 8 speaker with the oval sub in the back. When I first bought the truck I though it should be enough. I work from home and rarely drive my truck. It's not going to get a ton of use.

Well, I can't leave anything alone and I am obsessed with Car Audio since I was a Teen (my obsession started in 1993) with a Pyramid Subwoofer in my brother's car. LOL

Bringing us to 2024, 23 cars later and dozens of car stereo installs later. I am on the hunt for more Bass, more Clear Sound, and a great rounded out stereo.

I am working with the 12" Sync 4 and a B&O 8 speaker system. My plan is to use the Kicker Key to take the signal from the amplifier high level input behind the rear seats and feed a Kicker CXA1200.1, I am then going to order a Kicker L7T Subwoofer enclosure specifically designed for our trucks from @SoundsGoodStereo.

Products on order: Kicker Key Loc with PAC Harness for B&O. Ordered 18 March. I ordered this first to support @SoundsGoodStereo since they are a sponsor.

I was going to all Kicker but I cant bring myself to pass up this great deal on Skar. This will be the third truck I have with Skar and you just cant beat the price.

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[SoundsGoodStereo]

Looks to be a great setup, my only concern is you really need to run power and ground all the way to the battery under the hood. Using the factory ground point on the rear wall causes all types of issues and we receive phone calls daily with people who use that spot.

Otherwise, looks good

 

[brfertig]

Looks to be a great setup, my only concern is you really need to run power and ground all the way to the battery under the hood. Using the factory ground point on the rear wall causes all types of issues and we receive phone calls daily with people who use that spot.

Otherwise, looks good

SGS, I looked at dozens of integrations options before choosing your Kicker Key LOC setup. Thank you for making that part seamless. I will be sure to ground everything properly. I would run a meter across the ground and to the battery. That seems to be overkill to run a full length of wire to the battery. I know ford glued their chassis together but that would mean the rest of the truck would have problems as well. Really a silly thing to worry about these days but they are warranted as you have said. I will see what kind of resistance I get from a 12 volt source to the chassis in the rear of the truck. Stupid first world problems...thank you Ford.

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

SGS, I looked at dozens of integrations options before choosing your Kicker Key LOC setup. Thank you for making that part seamless. I will be sure to ground everything properly. I would run a meter across the ground and to the battery. That seems to be overkill to run a full length of wire to the battery. I know ford glued their chassis together but that would mean the rest of the truck would have problems as well. Really a silly thing to worry about these days but they are warranted as you have said. I will see what kind of resistance I get from a 12 volt source to the chassis in the rear of the truck. Stupid first world problems...thank you Ford.

If you want to check the ground, you have to put the truck on different inclines and test going down the road. We have seen as high as 50ohms in some trucks and brand new ones you can get 0ohms. But as that truck gets older, the impedance rises, and nothing but troubleshooting issues. Treat the truck as a fiberglass boat, no such thing as a good ground on the cab, at least not for long

 

[brfertig]

If you want to check the ground, you have to put the truck on different inclines and test going down the road. We have seen as high as 50ohms in some trucks and brand new ones you can get 0ohms. But as that truck gets older, the impedance rises, and nothing but troubleshooting issues. Treat the truck as a fiberglass boat, no such thing as a good ground on the cab, at least not for long

What if I grounded the chassis in the rear to the frame at several locations. Then ran a 4 gauge from the frame to the battery under the hood? This would also give the entire cab a better ground for all the OEM circuits that could have faults as the truck ages?

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

What if I grounded the chassis in the rear to the frame at several locations. Then ran a 4 gauge from the frame to the battery under the hood? This would also give the entire cab a better ground for all the OEM circuits that could have faults as the truck ages?

If you get to the frame, you are good. No need to run from the battery to the frame under the hood, just stay away from the glued cab body panels.

 

[brfertig]

If you get to the frame, you are good. No need to run from the battery to the frame under the hood, just stay away from the glued cab body panels.

I used to own a car audio shop years ago. My favorite stuff back then was RE Audio and the Big 3 Brands from the 90s. JL Kicker RF. Anyway. I wont be calling you with problems. I am sure to follow your guidence and get the grounds right. The frame with a grommet sounds best. Ill use a clean dry isolated place to ground and use dielectric grease so there will be limited rust issues.

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

Awesome, if you need anything, just let us know

 

[Graygoose2021]

SgS does amazing stuff, still using their sub enclosure, even if I can use anything we make
@SoundsGoodStereo

 

[brfertig]

@SoundsGoodStereo

Got your true source kicker key setup today. I thought the source 12v and ground would have been in the factory harness. Where do you recommend pulling power? Off the amps power wire or a distribution block?

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

@SoundsGoodStereo

Got your true source kicker key setup today. I thought the source 12v and ground would have been in the factory harness. Where do you recommend pulling power? Off the amps power wire or a distribution block?

Pull from the power/ground of your amplifier/distro, do not use another source. It all needs to match. On the power side, be sure to add a small 10a fuse to protect the small wire.

 

[brfertig]

Pull from the power/ground of your amplifier/distro, do not use another source. It all needs to match. On the power side, be sure to add a small 10a fuse to protect the small wire.

Thank you, I have a fuse holder perfect for the smaller ATC/ATM Mini fuses.

I apologize and hate to ask but the gains are covered up does that mean you all arlready set them or I need to peel that off and set them up per kickers website. I watched the video already.

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

Thank you, I have a fuse holder perfect for the smaller ATC/ATM Mini fuses.

I apologize and hate to ask but the gains are covered up does that mean you all arlready set them or I need to peel that off and set them up per kickers website. I watched the video already.

Don't Touch !! They are set to the factory system, by our team, in a truck, with that factory system. It will output 4v RCA voltage, so set the gain on your amplifier.

 

[brfertig]

Don't Touch !! They are set to the factory system, by our team, in a truck, with that factory system. It will output 4v RCA voltage, so set the gain on your amplifier.

Wow yall go all out.

 

[SoundsGoodStereo]

Wow yall go all out.

lol, yes... We know most customers do not have the test tools that we do and we wanted to make sure we do not get returns for "this thing will not program" or "this does not work right". So we eliminated those by tuning them before shipping

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