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It’s been holding up great so far only issue is my detailer sprayed some wheel cleaner and it dried the color to a very matte looking black/grey color but it’s help up great, no chips or peeling at all.

Nice truck! In my opinion all you need now is some plasti dip on the wheels to get rid of the chrome and it’ll look killer!

Wouldn't a locked tailgate and hard tonneau cover prevent all of this?

I don't have a power boost so I cant tell you from first hand experience but I'm sure it will. With the bad aerodynamics of the 4inch lift and heavier wheels and tires the electric mode wont kick on as often and will result in an MPG hit. How much would be a better question for the power boost...

Being able to rock 35s will all depend on your wheel offset, plenty of people are able to rock 35s with a level. Even the raptor take offs which are close to 35s fit on a stock non leveled truck, it really all comes down to what wheels and offset you are deciding to go with. The 4 inch lift...

Old setup- Leveled on bilstein 5100s (2.1 inch setting) rocking the stock 18 inch sport wheels blacked out with plasti dip and 295/70/18 nitto ridge grapplers New setup- Bilstein 5100s at 2.1 inch setting with raptor take offs also blacked out with plasti dip and BF Goodrich 315/70/17 KO2s.

If that's the case then the BAP truck was never really a consideration and we're just giving our opinion on which package is better for no reason. I'm just doing a comparison of the two packages because that's what this thread is about but I'm not going to factor the trip into the value of each...

That is true, everything is easy to modify if desired but if trying to match a factory setup, not getting the FX4 is easier to replicate/upgrade (at a better value) vs trying to replicate the BAP after the fact. Leather seats from katszkin are about $1700 installed, emblems require removing the...

If your advice is to go with the FX4 and do an expensive chrome delete with paint/wrap work AND ditching the stock fx4 you already paid for to upgrade to a better set of leveled Bilstein 5100s you are steering my brother in the least cost effective route. Doesn't many any sense vs just getting...

BAP package hands down, locking rear diff is an option on most trucks even without the FX4 (I have locking diff and no FX4). The fx4 "upgraded rancho shocks" aren't really an upgrade, skid plates are an easy install while the BAP goodies are harder to install vs bolting on some skid plates. The...

I’m just asking if my specific engine runs better with a certain oil vs another. Coming from high performance vehicles believe or not they actually like certain oils vs others. But after using like 4 different brands on my truck so far I’m starting to see that it’s not as picky as other vehicles...

I have an extra one for sale I can let go for cheap if you're interested. Theyre for the previous gen but fit without an issue.

I plasti dipped them myself. Cost me about $30, and clearance is good to go haven’t had any issues at all with daily driving and mild off-roading. For the plasti dip I just used a trash bag to cover the rotors and brake calipers, covered the logo and sprayed about 1 full can per wheel to leave a...

I personally think stickers advertising that you have a 4x4 or certain packages are very cheesy and take away the premium look from vehicles. I prefer the clean look.

I was replying to 780 which mentioned Ford quoted him $770 for two Bilstein 5100s. Its in his message lol I am well aware of the difference between the 5100s and 6112s which is what the Ford performance kit is based off of. I currently have a set of 5100s installed on my truck., but the price...

$770 for just the front set of 5100s? Jesus, what a rip off. You can get a full set of front and rear 5100s for around $450 from stage3motorsports and $850 for the 6112 stage 1 front and rear set. They're trying to charge you almost double what the full set (front and rear) of 5100s cost for...

No problem!

I paid $350 for labor, install, and alignment for mine. Just add the cost of your spacer/leveled strut assembly to gave you a ballpark estimate of how much it should be.

Looks nice but I would have just removed the mufflers while I was at it, I have a muffler delete and its really not that loud at all.

Whats recommended is varying speeds and rpms without driving too fast (I tried not to exceed 70 ish mph) for the first 1000 miles, also no towing. Usually city driving is recommended because you get to stop and accelerate through all the gears and rpms constantly but you can do it on the highway...