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Whipple Supercharger Questions

NavyChief

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There are bunch of install how-to's out there but they skip a lot of things. I am going to share my own install experience to help fill in the gaps, tips, pitfalls, do's and don'ts that might help others.
Like that tip about the hood latch lol
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diambo4life

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Yes, the stock tune is very good on pump gas. Most respectable shops will even tell you that. It's really the trans tune that wakes these trucks up quite a bit by optimizing the powerband even better. Congrats on the install. Now, go out there and enjoy it.
 

Eskram

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I silently envy those with a SC'd 5.0...
 

isthatahemi

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Yes, it is. Keep all the stock parts you remove ie. intake manifold with stock throttle body (if stage 2,) air intake box setup, thermostat housing that gets replaced etc. Just keep in mind that if you had a shop install it, you would be paying the same amount for them to uninstall the kit.



Has to be run with 5W-50 engine oil, spark plugs replaced every 20,000 miles (highly recommend using Ford Performance supercharger spec plugs seen HERE,) and changing supercharger oil every 100k miles. This requires removal of the supercharger. There have been issues with people burning up cats especially those running the short pre-axle exit exhausts. For longevity, it has been recommended to run catless if you will be beating the shit out of the truck. This is a non-issue if you will be driving normally with occasional spirited driving here and there and retaining the stock pulley. You MUST run a minimum of 91 pump gas. At this time, you can NOT run E85 on the canned Whipple tune.



This is a question only you can answer. It will pay to do your homework on the experience/rep of the shop that will be doing it. Obviously if there's a major issue, you would need to trailer the truck back to the shop. Just make sure the shop is familiar with Ford trucks and Whipple blowers.




None.



I am as well, but as someone who has other projects going on in the garage, I just didn't have the space/time to do the install immediately so I had a trusted local Mustang shop do the install. They had my truck for a couple days. They quoted me $900 for the install which IMO was too good to pass up for easily a 12hour + job which was done flawlessly.



Just do it! Hope the feedback helps.
I’m just going to second all of this and move along, spot on if you ask me.

Regarding installation, I did it in 17hrs from soup to nuts, with virtually no help, and I’m not a mechanic. Just carefully followed the instructions.
 

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isthatahemi

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Yes, the stock tune is very good on pump gas. Most respectable shops will even tell you that. It's really the trans tune that wakes these trucks up quite a bit by optimizing the powerband even better. Congrats on the install. Now, go out there and enjoy it.
I run the stock tune except for Sundays and race days (OZ for those days) The stock Whipple tune is golden, with some early shift points that hamper performance. Prolly gonna self tune out to preserve the drivability of the Whipple tune.
 

Jaredr821

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Did anyone find a good booster?
Love the whipple but definitely can tell we need more pressure
 

Gooner5643

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Did anyone find a good booster?
Love the whipple but definitely can tell we need more pressure
They’re not needed unless you’re running e85 or ethanol blend. Can go jms powermax v2 or jd performance stage 2 fuel system.
 

isthatahemi

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Did anyone find a good booster?
Love the whipple but definitely can tell we need more pressure
What do you mean? Please explain…
 

Jaredr821

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What do you mean? Please explain…
When I slow down or stop the truck will bog down or die. I think it’s a fuel problem because my last truck was the same setup and did the same thing
 

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isthatahemi

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When I slow down or stop the truck will bog down or die. I think it’s a fuel problem because my last truck was the same setup and did the same thing
That’s got nothing to do with the actual capacity of the system at all.
 

TexasTruck

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When I slow down or stop the truck will bog down or die. I think it’s a fuel problem because my last truck was the same setup and did the same thing
Interesting... I think we might be experiencing a similar scenario. What I notice is when I go then slow to a stop, Ex. up to 1500 RPM and suddenly let off the throttle and brake, the RPM will drop below 500 RPM and then recover to normal in Drive idle (700ish RPM). I stalled once in a parking lot the other times the RPM gets uncomfortably low and recovers.

I contacted Whipple and they said that situation is fixed and is in my calibration. They seem genuinely interested in why it still happens and supposedly contacted the tuning contractor. That was a week ago and I haven't heard anything yet.

Here is a short video recreate showing the RPM rise and fall and recover. It isn't as nearly as dramatic as I see some times


 

Jaredr821

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Interesting... I think we might be experiencing a similar scenario. What I notice is when I go then slow to a stop, Ex. up to 1500 RPM and suddenly let off the throttle and brake, the RPM will drop below 500 RPM and then recover to normal in Drive idle (700ish RPM). I stalled once in a parking lot the other times the RPM gets uncomfortably low and recovers.

I contacted Whipple and they said that situation is fixed and is in my calibration. They seem genuinely interested in why it still happens and supposedly contacted the tuning contractor. That was a week ago and I haven't heard anything yet.

Here is a short video recreate showing the RPM rise and fall and recover. It isn't as nearly as dramatic as I see some times


Yes sir I’ve had the exact same problem on two trucks. I recently updated my calibration with no fix. I definitely think it’s a fuel pressure problem because the Roush superchargers come with a gas pump voltage booster to compensate for the boost. Because any boost that it’s pushing gets lost pressure wise and fuel pressure.
 

isthatahemi

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How can you be sure?
Because capacity issues appear on high demand not low demand scenarios. This is just a tuning glitch, and while it may relate to fuel pressure, changing that would be as simple as changing the commanded voltage of the pump or the commanded pressure. (Assuming it has anything to do with fuel pressure, which I don’t think it does).

What I’m saying is it’s well inside the parameters that are available already there’s no need to boost anything. A pump booster is useful in high demand or ethanol fuel scenario when you’re running out of pump, not when you’re at the lowest demand point on the curve.
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