Welcome lighting not working anymore...

[JJSnell]

Don't take this wrong, but that dealership notation has proven to be lacking in credibility numerous times on the forum.

It'd be nice to see its static voltage without accessory mode or engine ready.

Ok testing seems fine, running trickle now... BUT... I also tried to do the ZONE LIGHTING while the car was running with the same error. Wouldnt the engine running provide enough juice to the batt via Alternator? Seems to me like there is something else going on. Ill check my Forscan and make sure nothing else is enabled\disabled there also....

Sponsored

 

[JJSnell]

Don't take this wrong, but that dealership notation has proven to be lacking in credibility numerous times on the forum.

It'd be nice to see its static voltage without accessory mode or engine ready.

@Random155 @fordhouston @Snakebitten @HammaMan

Ok well it's getting more and more confusing....
Disconnected trickle and had to run to the bank and this popped just as soon as I DCed the trickle charger.
Yes I am running AC and cooling seats.... But....

 

[fordhouston]

@Jesse-Infotainment by chance could you assist this gentleman? TIA

 

[Jesse-Infotainment]

@Random155 @HammaMan

Ok so I "reset" the truck, both batteries disconnected for over an hour. Still no lights and I just noticed that on my ZONE LIGHTING on my FordPass App, it wont even turn on manually. I am getting this error.

Im not saying this is the issue, but everything, the entire truck was flawless before 4.2.1 and 4.2.2.

Can someone run an FDRS and see if Im missing something?

1FTFW1ED9NFB50297

Zone lighting has not been working in iOS since the update from what I understand.

You could have a bad secondary battery. I’ve heard of those being bad. Not sure how the isolation circuit works on the PB but I do know that a bad cell will drain a good one extremely quickly

 

[JJSnell]

Zone lighting has not been working in iOS since the update from what I understand.

You could have a bad secondary battery. I’ve heard of those being bad. Not sure how the isolation circuit works on the PB but I do know that a bad cell will drain a good one extremely quickly

Thanks Jess, I have a Droid if that matters, but all of this started by me noticing the lights aren't coming on anymore when I approach the truck, just the running boards drop down.
Not sure if this helps your thought process or not.
I'm having flashbacks of all the guys giving me crap on holding off on 4.2.1 update...

 

[Jesse-Infotainment]

Thanks Jess, I have a Droid of that matters, but all of this started by me noticing the lights aren't coming on anymore when I approach the truck, just the running boards drop down.
Not sure if this helps your thoughts process or not.
I'm having flashbacks of all the guys giving me crap on holding off on 4.2.1 update...

I don’t really know on this situation. I don’t think it’s a programming issue or software. The zone lighting was an iOS thing

You probably have a voltage issue a bad cell..

need to isolate each battery and test each individually

 

[HammaMan]

How are you charging the battery @JJSnell ? You cannot connect directly to the battery itself. You must connect the ground somewhere else on the truck. Under the hood it's easy as you can connect to the truck side of the battery monitor (as opposed to the battery side -- or to nearly anything else under the hood as it's all ground). The rear battery has a current transformer on the ground wire itself so there's no way to bypass it at the battery. If you charge at the rear battery the BMS thinks you're depleting the little battery into the big one.

 

[JJSnell]

How are you charging the battery @JJSnell ? You cannot connect directly to the battery itself. You must connect the ground somewhere else on the truck. Under the hood it's easy as you can connect to the truck side of the battery monitor (as opposed to the battery side -- or to nearly anything else under the hood as it's all ground). The rear battery has a current transformer on the ground wire itself so there's no way to bypass it at the battery. If you charge at the rear battery the BMS thinks you're depleting the little battery into the big one.

Well gimme some credit...
Been building classic cars since a teenager, I know how to trickle a battery.

Admittedly I am lost on this second battery crap... I guess.
Well one is to start and the other for all components...
Looks like a new battery is $35-$40. So not even worth my time to take to dealer and have them replace under warranty... Just buy a new one.

What I'm worried about is:
- I've done a few Forscan changes, dbl horn honk, Bambi, MCSeats, Lincoln Fold mirrors and rear camera while driving.
- 4.2.1 and 4.2.2 updates

If it really is a crappy (backseat) battery and I have to replace it every 10 months, (truck is 10 months old), then that's gonna be pretty crappy....

 

[Snakebitten]

The backseat battery is connected to the main battery. But if you look down onto the battery tray under the hood, nearest the firewall, you will notice the tray is bigger than the battery in the Powerboost, but there's an apparatus mounted to the tray.

That's a battery isolator that separates the two 12V batteries when it is opened. The ONLY time it is opened, according to literature, is when the traditional 12V bendix/flywheel starter is engaged. Which is far rarer than you might think.

So for just those very few seconds when a high-current load is put on the 12V system, the command is sent to open the isolator and in that state the main battery is "isolated" from most of the 12v buss of the truck. So the 12V electronics of the truck never experience the affects of a sudden high current voltage dropping event.

Rather simple and clever, if you think about it. But it does complicate the effort to remove the 12V source of power from the truck. Disconnecting the underhood battery doesn't achieve what you might think.

 

[HammaMan]

Well gimme some credit...
Been building classic cars since a teenager, I know how to trickle a battery.

Admittedly I am lost on this second battery crap... I guess.
Well one is to start and the other for all components...
Looks like a new battery is $35-$40. So not even worth my time to take to dealer and have them replace under warranty... Just buy a new one.

What I'm worried about is:
- I've done a few Forscan changes, dbl horn honk, Bambi, MCSeats, Lincoln Fold mirrors and rear camera while driving.
- 4.2.1 and 4.2.2 updates

If it really is a crappy (backseat) battery and I have to replace it every 10 months, (truck is 10 months old), then that's gonna be pretty crappy....

Hell old cars don't care where you connect to the batt, they don't have a BMS. It's the new stuff that causes issues. Even AGMs are 'legacy' chemistry and can get an adequate SOC via the v-sense w/ temp sense. They try to get all cutesy with current transformers and shunts trying to watch current in and out of the batts, but current transformers aren't good with small loads. The weak link isn't the aux batt, it's the one under the hood. Some have reported better performance via aftermarket AGM batt, but I don't think enough time has elapsed to see how it does at the factory batt's age.

If it wasn't for already putting in 12hrs/day avg 7 days a week I'd make a LFP to drop in the aux box. Even a 'small' one could more than triple the usable current before sync sleeps and charging is stupid fast leaving the under-hood AGM always charged.

 

[AAWhyte]

JJ - For what it's worth, that is the same amount of time my battery lasted. I to was getting the 'powering down everything' message for several weeks. I charged it several times overnight and that would last a couple of days before I started to receive the messages again. Took it to the dealer and they immediate told me it was a bad battery and replaced it. I have not had any battery 'funny stuff' happen since then. I do not have the second battery.

 

[JJSnell]

JJ - For what it's worth, that is the same amount of time my battery lasted. I to was getting the 'powering down everything' message for several weeks. I charged it several times overnight and that would last a couple of days before I started to receive the messages again. Took it to the dealer and they immediate told me it was a bad battery and replaced it. I have not had any battery 'funny stuff' happen since then. I do not have the second battery.

So wait, your under hood batt died? I was thinking they were telling me my backseat needed replaced?

 

[JJSnell]

Hell old cars don't care where you connect to the batt, they don't have a BMS. It's the new stuff that causes issues. Even AGMs are 'legacy' chemistry and can get an adequate SOC via the v-sense w/ temp sense. They try to get all cutesy with current transformers and shunts trying to watch current in and out of the batts, but current transformers aren't good with small loads. The weak link isn't the aux batt, it's the one under the hood. Some have reported better performance via aftermarket AGM batt, but I don't think enough time has elapsed to see how it does at the factory batt's age.

If it wasn't for already putting in 12hrs/day avg 7 days a week I'd make a LFP to drop in the aux box. Even a 'small' one could more than trie the usable current before sync sleeps and charging is stupid fast leaving the under-hood AGM always charged.

Well what I'm saying is I've always used a proper ground on every jump start or trickle charge since I can remember boats, cars, jet skis, whatever. You don't ever go post to post

 

[AAWhyte]

JJ - Yep main battery under the hood as I do not have the PB with the extra battery under the seat. Worth checking it.

 

[DcnPat]

Ok so my ADHD just translated 99.9%, 100ah, 80ah, 40ah, 50ah, 10ah, 75%, 7ah... to... "its 11:23am and time to go get lunch at Arbys...."

Why dont they put in a meaningful battery. The entire floor of Teslas, Mustang EV and Lightnings are are batteries Why not span the width of that tray area for a decent battery????

Your truck has three (3) batteries: 12v starter battery under the hood, 12v aux battery under the rear passenger seat, HV battery for electric/hybrid drive underneath the bed near the front.

Sponsored