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@Snakebitten, not sure if you recall my post from the RV thread, but I experienced the "engine stays on and burns a ton of fuel" with Propower. I suspected it was related to having the vehicle in a 4x4 mode.
whenever I find a boondocking location, I level the truck using 4A to get on to my risers, then set the parking brake and leave it in 4a while in place. No problem with propower working properly. I think there is a different gremlin causing the truck to continuously running.
 
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FrankThompson

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I meant to post this before. Note I took a 10ish mile drive after to just get out and around.
Ford F-150 Used PowerBoost's Pro Power during Hurricane Ian blackout PXL_20221002_193533902


My estimates:

Total gas used: 2/5 of a tank (I did the math before I looked at the widget which shows 59.3% so close enough)

Gas used the night it ran all night: 1/4 a tank. Of that I'm going to say 3/5 of it was "waste"

total estimated gas used for generator: about 1/4 of a tank for about 3.5 days of power.

my estimate was a tank would last us 2-3 weeks, but I think that was optimistic (we still had 35 gallons of spare gas in cans just in case). With this load I would expect to get 2 weeks of power on one tank.


Not bad if you ask me. The 1/2 day we ran the gas generator we used 5 gallons. For the same tank I would get about 3 days on the normal generator.


Now what I want/need is a transfer switch that doesn't require breaking out certain breakers. I want a full panel transfer switch. Does anyone know of one that works with a bonded neutral generator?
 

powerboatr

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I meant to post this before. Note I took a 10ish mile drive after to just get out and around.
PXL_20221002_193533902.jpg


My estimates:

Total gas used: 2/5 of a tank (I did the math before I looked at the widget which shows 59.3% so close enough)

Gas used the night it ran all night: 1/4 a tank. Of that I'm going to say 3/5 of it was "waste"

total estimated gas used for generator: about 1/4 of a tank for about 3.5 days of power.

my estimate was a tank would last us 2-3 weeks, but I think that was optimistic (we still had 35 gallons of spare gas in cans just in case). With this load I would expect to get 2 weeks of power on one tank.


Not bad if you ask me. The 1/2 day we ran the gas generator we used 5 gallons. For the same tank I would get about 3 days on the normal generator.


Now what I want/need is a transfer switch that doesn't require breaking out certain breakers. I want a full panel transfer switch. Does anyone know of one that works with a bonded neutral generator?
here if you want a full panel transfer switch the electric company has to approve it or be on their list.
they have one approved that goes in-between the meter base and the meter itself
you can order it to come with a connector for the generator your using
i am not sure if it has a port for a your cable, but they make one for a westinghouse 13k watt genny that will run my house if i turn off a few breaker , but it will power the ac, fridges et
http://www.generlink.com/generlink.html
http://www.generlink.com/generator-switch.html

not sure it works for you..but its simple. power company has to install it here for 50 bucks
 
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FrankThompson

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here if you want a full panel transfer switch the electric company has to approve it or be on their list.
they have one approved that goes in-between the meter base and the meter itself
you can order it to come with a connector for the generator your using
i am not sure if it has a port for a your cable, but they make one for a westinghouse 13k watt genny that will run my house if i turn off a few breaker , but it will power the ac, fridges et
http://www.generlink.com/generlink.html
http://www.generlink.com/generator-switch.html

not sure it works for you..but its simple. power company has to install it here for 50 bucks
I saw that but couldn't find out if it would work with a bonded neutral generator like the one in the truck.
 

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powerboatr

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I saw that but couldn't find out if it would work with a bonded neutral generator like the one in the truck.
i would just call them monday
they are real quick to pick up
i think most stand alone or portables are bonded neutral but thats what i would ask them.
 

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Uhoh.
I hope this thread doesn't.....

Oil threads are notorious for the banter.
But connecting the Powerboost ProPower 240V outlet to a house? Those threads can be legendary! 🤣

If I did live in a sticks and mortar house, I'd love to find a solution that my local service provider signs off on!
 

powerboatr

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Uhoh.
I hope this thread doesn't.....

Oil threads are notorious for the banter.
But connecting the Powerboost ProPower 240V outlet to a house? Those threads can be legendary! 🤣

If I did live in a sticks and mortar house, I'd love to find a solution that my local service provider signs off on!
its funny alright, our coop already has a scope for "in vehicle mounted generators/batteries"
they are changing a few things to make sure lineman are protected as well as the property owner. they turned me on to the meter base unit, with full blessing.
if you want full solar and have main grid as backup.........it gets even scarier at the requirements.
my solar plan is what got me back in to the meter base instead of the 40k off grid set up. big assss batteries for night time are omg off the charts pricey.
but running a powerboost or lighting or big genny is the cats meow for us.
 
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FrankThompson

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i would just call them monday
they are real quick to pick up
i think most stand alone or portables are bonded neutral but thats what i would ask them.
Plan on doing that and emailing them now. Looks like they support bonded neutral generators but not gfi protected ones. From my reading some bonded neutral generators on my have gfi on the 120v and not the 240v so you are good.

The powerpoost I believe has it on the 240v as well making it not compatible with the generlink. I'm still going to email them to be sure though.
 
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FrankThompson

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Uhoh.
I hope this thread doesn't.....

Oil threads are notorious for the banter.
But connecting the Powerboost ProPower 240V outlet to a house? Those threads can be legendary! 🤣

If I did live in a sticks and mortar house, I'd love to find a solution that my local service provider signs off on!
I don't plan on doing it any way that is not legit. No cutting of ground lines between the house and generator. I also plan to call my power company, but right now their hands are full 🙂
 

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powerboatr

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I don't plan on doing it any way that is not legit. No cutting of ground lines between the house and generator. I also plan to call my power company, but right now their hands are full 🙂
our coop guy had me on the phone for over an hour. then he said, hey i am off in a few and dropped by the house. of course another hr went by fast.
sure your folks are as eager as well to make a sooth solution
 

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I believe generlink has confirmed that their product will not work with the Powerboost.

Although, when I was talking to them, they said it would. But, my power company won't allow them.

And, thinking about it, there is no way that it should work as bonded neutral should not come from the power source which their product mimicks at the meter.

I actually offered for a rep from them to come here and discuss this. They declined by ignoring me 🤔
 

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HammaMan

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I don't plan on doing it any way that is not legit. No cutting of ground lines between the house and generator. I also plan to call my power company, but right now their hands are full 🙂
You don't cut it, you float it. The reason that code lacks in this regards is because GFCI protection just isn't something a generator does. Don't take advice from your PoCo or anyone else not familiar with what your generator actually is. What you need is precisely what I've stated in this post....
https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/7-2kw-propower-for-off-grid-cabin.12598/page-10#post-259194

A transfer switch will not change a bonded neutral and allow the truck to power the home because of its GFI breaker unless....

1) The neutral to ground bond occurs in front of the ATS (a lot of ATSs want the bond to occur in them, this will not work. The neutral ground bonding must occur between the power meter and the ATS)
AND
2)The ATS switches L1, L2, AND neutral

I don't care who they are, they must understand points 1 and 2 else it won't work. Anyone you contract with to perform any work, present them the conditions and make them SIGN A CONTRACT stating they understand those 2 points and will design accordingly.
 
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FrankThompson

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You don't cut it, you float it. The reason that code lacks in this regards is because GFCI protection just isn't something a generator does. Don't take advice from your PoCo or anyone else not familiar with what your generator actually is. What you need is precisely what I've stated in this post....
https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/7-2kw-propower-for-off-grid-cabin.12598/page-10#post-259194

A transfer switch will not change a bonded neutral and allow the truck to power the home because of its GFI breaker unless....

1) The neutral to ground bond occurs in front of the ATS (a lot of ATSs want the bond to occur in them, this will not work. The neutral ground bonding must occur between the power meter and the ATS)
AND
2)The ATS switches L1, L2, AND neutral

I don't care who they are, they must understand points 1 and 2 else it won't work. Anyone you contract with to perform any work, present them the conditions and make them SIGN A CONTRACT stating they understand those 2 points and will design accordingly.
I appreciate the heads-up. I planned on calling the power company because I need to know if at least I am allowed to put anything between the meter and my panel. I'm sure I've read in some areas that is restricted.

Figured it wouldn't hurt to call them and ask. I'll find an electrician who can do the work and I appreciate your 2 criteria. I'm sure I understand them and will ensure they do too.
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