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Use a 50amp cable for the 7.2kw ProPower?

BLoflin

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I'm talking about being careful on the trailer side. Trailers are not 220v, they ar 110v. Plugging a 220v plug into a 110v adapter will burn up your fuse box on your trailer. I'm not worried about the truck at all. It's the cheaply built trailers with Chinese wire to worry about.
You are wrong (confused) and may be confusing others reading this.

Yes RVs are 120V.

Yes "50 Amp" (i.e. 4 pin) RVs have 2 separate 120V legs each rated to use up to 50 amps (but usually on most RVs will have 30amp breaker, limiting load up to 30amps on each leg). In general the RVs with 2 A/Cs will be a 4 pin (i.e. two 120V circuits with a A/C on each along with splitting up the other loads).

Depending on the plug (or dogleg) you get to connect to ProPower you COULD get 240V at up to 30Amps (i.e. 7.2KW).

BUT, you can also get 2 (two) separate 120V at 30Amp circuits via the correct 4 pin plug/dogleg. This would power BOTH circuits directly in a 4pin RV correctly.

If you have a 3 pin RV, it has a single load circuit of 120V at 30amps. In this case you can get a plug/dogleg to connect directly to the RV and for the other "side" of the ProPower (i.e. B side) you could use the 120V standard plugs in the truck bed to drive additional things not in your RV (i.e. an outdoor TV, or a powered ice chest, or an electric hot plate or coffemaker (or send you partner out to the truck to use the hairdryer! :) ).

I know this because I have a ProPower F150, a 4 pin (has 2 A/Cs) RV and the appropriate dog legs, as will as a Hughes Autoformers Power Watchdog that checks and monitors the lines, showing voltage, wattage, and checks for polarity, gnd and open neutral.
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imnuts

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You can't get 240V without connecting both hot legs. Unless the dog bone connector or your RV were incorrectly wired, replacing the neutral with a hot somewhere, you couldn't hook up and get 240V into a 120V system. And if the RV is incorrectly wired, you're going to have problems anywhere you plug in.
 
 




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