staying_tuned
Well-known member
- Thread starter
- #1
Howdy folks, I solicited some feedback from y'all and dialed into what I feel like is a heck of a lot of upgrade for the money. Goals were to increase clarity while adding some clean bass. I'm old enough to where I don't need any more volume, I'm usually at about half on the knob but man are these OEM speakers muddy. I got a lot of great reccomendations and ended up with the following:
- Kicker HS10
- Kicker Key 200.4
- Kicker CSC693 (6x9 coax) -> Front Door
- Kicker 46CST204 (tweeter) -> Front Pillar
- 6x9 adapter/mount plates & speaker adapter plugs
- PNP Harness wired for the above to retain stock rears, includes amp wiring etc. from PNP kits.
Total: $996.99 with a current kicker discount, with shipping $1037.97
I cheated and also picked up a pair of door block-off plates from SGS. I also had a ton of deadener around, both aluminum backed butyl mat and closed-cell PE foam pads. I put this stuff on everything including the sides/back of our dishwasher/dryer/washer etc. It makes our $350 dishwasher as quiet as a $2k one.
Anyhow onto the goodies. Not pictured here are the door block-off plates, I started on the doors before the below arrived and already had them on.
Not bad for 1k.
F150 door panels about the easiest I've ever removed, very cool that everything is reachable and the plugs aren't overly complicated. Here I've added both aluminum/butyl and closed cell deadener focusing heavily behind the speaker but I was able to cover nearly the entire inner skin, again super easy to work with and access. Love these doors.
You'll noticed the pre-drilled holes for the backer plates. Do this before deadener then you can compress the plates right onto the deadener, the screws just glide on through.
Outer skin, rolled everything in really well.
Here is the door ready for the cover. I used the closed-cell PE foam in areas to pin down wiring so it wouldn't rattle etc. It's very thin, easy to cut and sticky. Deadens plus holds things down and its cheap.
I ran a bead of silicon around the block-off plate, they are not air tight at all once installed. The deadener helped closed the gaps by acting like a gasket but for sure run a bead if you want to prevent air passing through. I also ran a bead of silicon around the metra speaker rings just to be safe, I could see an ever so slight gap on the side.
Door cover
Doors are all back together and sounding great, I could tell the difference the moment I closed them and got a nice sharp thud. Working on the tweeters now and will then move onto the Key 200.4 and finally end with the HS10 likely this weekend.
- Kicker HS10
- Kicker Key 200.4
- Kicker CSC693 (6x9 coax) -> Front Door
- Kicker 46CST204 (tweeter) -> Front Pillar
- 6x9 adapter/mount plates & speaker adapter plugs
- PNP Harness wired for the above to retain stock rears, includes amp wiring etc. from PNP kits.
Total: $996.99 with a current kicker discount, with shipping $1037.97
I cheated and also picked up a pair of door block-off plates from SGS. I also had a ton of deadener around, both aluminum backed butyl mat and closed-cell PE foam pads. I put this stuff on everything including the sides/back of our dishwasher/dryer/washer etc. It makes our $350 dishwasher as quiet as a $2k one.
Anyhow onto the goodies. Not pictured here are the door block-off plates, I started on the doors before the below arrived and already had them on.
Not bad for 1k.
F150 door panels about the easiest I've ever removed, very cool that everything is reachable and the plugs aren't overly complicated. Here I've added both aluminum/butyl and closed cell deadener focusing heavily behind the speaker but I was able to cover nearly the entire inner skin, again super easy to work with and access. Love these doors.
You'll noticed the pre-drilled holes for the backer plates. Do this before deadener then you can compress the plates right onto the deadener, the screws just glide on through.
Outer skin, rolled everything in really well.
Here is the door ready for the cover. I used the closed-cell PE foam in areas to pin down wiring so it wouldn't rattle etc. It's very thin, easy to cut and sticky. Deadens plus holds things down and its cheap.
I ran a bead of silicon around the block-off plate, they are not air tight at all once installed. The deadener helped closed the gaps by acting like a gasket but for sure run a bead if you want to prevent air passing through. I also ran a bead of silicon around the metra speaker rings just to be safe, I could see an ever so slight gap on the side.
Door cover
Doors are all back together and sounding great, I could tell the difference the moment I closed them and got a nice sharp thud. Working on the tweeters now and will then move onto the Key 200.4 and finally end with the HS10 likely this weekend.
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