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Xman

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FaaWrenchBndr, I'm glad you got yours to work. I wonder if the backside of your radiator area was open like the 2023s or very restricted like on mine. I hope others can install like yours.

I finally did get it installed because I was determined to make it work. If your truck is like mine, I do not recommend modifying the COBB piece as I did. For those who were determined as I was, this is what I did to accomplish installation.

1. trimmed/ground as much off the bottom and right side of the forward extension as possible (picture 1 below). I even enlarged the hole with a 21/64 bit and still did not get it to fully seat over the back end of the pushpin used to hold and align the bracket. Greasing the parts did not help. There is not near the room in this area as on the 2023. The forward extension must be inserted before trying to get the left side in front of the radiator.

2. The COBB piece is designed to fit the indentations in the prior radiator shroud which do not exist in the new shroud. I ended up slotting the right-hand tab to hold the intake lip more securely (picture 2).

3. I ground the upper right-hand tab shorter that lips over the cross frame, so it did not interfere with the new, harder plastic radiator shroud (picture 3). I didn't feel like cutting the new shroud which would have been easier.

4. All attempts to install the bracket using the right-hand screw first failed. BTW, this truck has no place to really set fasteners on the radiator shroud like my other vehicles. I had 4 fasteners/screws fall through into the radiator/engine area. Only was able to recover 3.

5. I used tape to hold the COBB support bracket in place and get the left-hand screw started. Note, no pushpins were installed in the radiator shroud until after the COBB bracket screws were inserted.

6. The new shroud has a bigger cut-out area on the upper right corner around the radiator (also seen in picture 3). This allowed me to use a tool to push the right-side of the bracket in and hold it up to insert and start the right-hand screw. Initially, the screw would not start. I used a long-punch to help align the bracket screw hole and even did a little touch up with my dremel to ensure there was no metal interference with the cross member and COBB bracket. This allowed the right-hand screw to start and secure.

7. Picture 4 shows the final, somewhat successful mod and install. Note the new radiator shroud had a taller air-dam (especially on the left-hand side) to prevent hot air from the engine compartment from getting to the air intake area.


Ford F-150 TSB for right side turbocharger on 3.5L PowerBoost - Lariat/XLT/XL 1727554856739-6c


Ford F-150 TSB for right side turbocharger on 3.5L PowerBoost - Lariat/XLT/XL 1727554896221-uw


Ford F-150 TSB for right side turbocharger on 3.5L PowerBoost - Lariat/XLT/XL 1727554940277-ze


Ford F-150 TSB for right side turbocharger on 3.5L PowerBoost - Lariat/XLT/XL 1727555001201-40
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GrandpaD

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I want to go ahead and get this fixed, but just spent $3600 on an extended warranty on my ‘24 and don’t want to void it by cutting parts in the engine bay. If I take this in to the dealer are they just going to cut the plastic as well? The truck drives fine but I don’t want to deal with blowing a turbo even if it’s free under warranty.
Despite a lot of folks cutting the deflector, I don't see in the TSB that being a dealer remedy. It lists a replacement part and pins. I'm with you and didn't want my DIY flagged by the dealer for whatever reason. The part is $85. I used my surplus Ford points (of which I didn't really have a use) so it cost me nothing. I reused the "Christmas tree pins".
 

HammaMan

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I want to go ahead and get this fixed, but just spent $3600 on an extended warranty on my ‘24 and don’t want to void it by cutting parts in the engine bay. If I take this in to the dealer are they just going to cut the plastic as well? The truck drives fine but I don’t want to deal with blowing a turbo even if it’s free under warranty.
You can wait on the dealer or cut it yourself. It's very simple to do. Would probably take longer to drop the truck off and wait. I'd go ahead and cut it now, and just put a note so the first time you take it in for something they can go ahead and order it. You might be able to just stop by and have them order it ahead of time so your truck isn't parked for a few days waiting on parts. If you drop your vin I'll see what recalls you have.
 

crazywayne311

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I want to go ahead and get this fixed, but just spent $3600 on an extended warranty on my ‘24 and don’t want to void it by cutting parts in the engine bay. If I take this in to the dealer are they just going to cut the plastic as well? The truck drives fine but I don’t want to deal with blowing a turbo even if it’s free under warranty.
You can wait on the dealer or cut it yourself. It's very simple to do. Would probably take longer to drop the truck off and wait. I'd go ahead and cut it now, and just put a note so the first time you take it in for something they can go ahead and order it. You might be able to just stop by and have them order it ahead of time so your truck isn't parked for a few days waiting on parts. If you drop your vin I'll see what recalls you have.
@HammaMan makes a good point. you can hope the dealer can look at it and order what you need and then you can come back once it comes in but why even bother wasting all that time.

i know some feel apprehensive about cutting the shroud but as you can see, many in this thread have done it and it takes no more than 10 minutes if you're super slow and careful.

i feel like mine looks so good a dealer service probably wont even notice its NOT the OEM part.

OR like @GrandpaD did, just order the new part and put it in yourself. should take no more than 10-15 minutes if not faster if you have a pin puller.
 

FaaWrenchBndr

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Despite a lot of folks cutting the deflector, I don't see in the TSB that being a dealer remedy. It lists a replacement part and pins. I'm with you and didn't want my DIY flagged by the dealer for whatever reason. The part is $85. I used my surplus Ford points (of which I didn't really have a use) so it cost me nothing. I reused the "Christmas tree pins".
I initially cut mine. Then I waited on the part called out in the TSB to arrive. I installed it and the Cobb bracket.
 

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RedwoodRyan

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I have a ‘24 F-150 Lariat PB, May ‘24 build. Do I have the flawed or updated OEM shroud? I purchased the truck in mid August. I can see getting the Cobb intake trim piece, but shroud looks like it doesn’t deflect airflow? Thanks for the help!
Ford F-150 TSB for right side turbocharger on 3.5L PowerBoost - Lariat/XLT/XL IMG_9415
Ford F-150 TSB for right side turbocharger on 3.5L PowerBoost - Lariat/XLT/XL IMG_9416
 

HammaMan

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I have a ‘24 F-150 Lariat PB, May ‘24 build. Do I have the flawed or updated OEM shroud? I purchased the truck in mid August. I can see getting the Cobb intake trim piece, but shroud looks like it doesn’t deflect airflow? Thanks for the help!
IMG_9415.jpeg
IMG_9416.jpeg
Yes, that is the design that fails
 

Samson16

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FaaWrenchBndr

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Did you get the updated shroud from Ford? Looking at the Cobb shroud and emailed them about it fitting a ‘24 Powerboost. Their site only seems to show up to MY '23, but clearly at least some parts fit the '24 PB.
Yes…..spoke to my dealer, sales guy got me the part. It’s the part called out in the TSB. Called out is RL3Z-19E525-A
 
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Sojourner

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If I remember correctly... 21 did not have BAP and the different hood was only on tremor... 22-23 BAP got the tremor hood.... I believe now all 24 models have the tremor/BAP hood.
On a completely different subject, if true, this would be GREAT news for those of us who have been waiting on AVS for what has been years to put out an Aeroskin edition for the Tremors/BAPs/etc.
 

Sojourner

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A little late to the thread but here’s a couple of pictures of my ‘23 F-150 Tremor 3.5L at the snorkel and underside hood depression. I may just get one of those Cobb brackets. The lower snorkel flap is just too flimsy for me.

IMG_0330.jpeg


IMG_0331.jpeg
I have the same truck and have the same opinion. I just ordered the Cobb bracket.
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