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Transfer Switch install - success!

SouthernGuy

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I just wanted to share my success story after the installation of a Generac 6852 Manual Transfer Switch which will be powered by my 2021 PowerBoost (7.2Kw).

I purchased the switch from from an online retailer a couple of weeks ago.
Power Inlet Box and 40ft generator cord came from Amazon.

After consulting with my electrician, we came up with the list of critical circuits that would be backed up and made a shopping list of parts.

Some 10/3 w/ground, a couple of tandem breakers, misc (conduit, fittings, wire nuts, etc)

Total installation time was about 8 hrs spread over 2 days.

Ran the 10/3 thru existing conduit from the outdoor main panel (up and thru the attic) down to the transfer switch location, mounted the Power Inlet box, mounted the transfer switch, identified and tagged wiring in the attic, disconnected wiring from original breaker panel, pulled it into the attic space and connected each circuit to the transfer switch wiring.

Connected the generator cord from the truck to the power inlet box, turned off the 200 amp breaker in the Main Outdoor panel and flipped over to 'Generator Power' on the Transfer Switch.

Tested each critical back-up circuit (fridge freezer, coffee maker, microwave, satellite TV, window A/C unit, lights and outlets) and everything came on flawlessly.

We arranged the breaker layout in the transfer switch to balance the 2 legs coming from the truck. With all of the circuits on (all lights, ceiling fans, etc) we saw no more than 2200 watts being used (out of 3600 for each leg).

I couldn't be happier about capability of the truck and the transfer switch install. Much of my success goes to the pioneers on this forum who documented their installs and answered so many questions that I (and my electrician) had.
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Kodiak

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Congrats! I have a transfer switch already but have yet to see if it will accept a bonded neutral generator (F150). If not I will have to look into what I need to do to get it to work.
 
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SouthernGuy

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If it switches the neutral and both hot legs, it should work. What do you have?
 

2022RedDog

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My electrician wants to use the standard transfer switches he uses on all jobs (not Generac 6852 or x-series). He claims he can separate the neutral and ground in the transfer circuit.

Is this possible? Or am I wasting my time? (is there a way he can add separate bars as add-ons?)

I'm beginning to really hate Ford again.
 
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SouthernGuy

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I'm not an electrician, so I am not qualified to know whether it can be done as your electrician 'claims'. I do know that the neutral and ground are bonded in the truck circuitry and how they would (or could) be separated by using a different type of switch, I have no idea.

My opinion is this. If you have doubts about it, get another opinion.
All I can say with certainty is that using the recommended transfer switch works.

Here is another thought. What is the cost difference between the standard transfer switch he is planning to use and the added cost of extra components .... versus ... the cost of a recommended (proven) transfer switch?
 

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Kodiak

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My electrician wants to use the standard transfer switches he uses on all jobs (not Generac 6852 or x-series). He claims he can separate the neutral and ground in the transfer circuit.

Is this possible? Or am I wasting my time? (is there a way he can add separate bars as add-ons?)

I'm beginning to really hate Ford again.
I'm not an electrician so I do not know for sure. However I see that there are Eaton brand transfer switch boxes that specifically say they can be wired for either generator situation, so it may be possible.
 

BLoflin

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Also to keep in mind, an appropriate switched neutral solution (whether fully mechanical or automated) will switch Neutral BEFORE switching the 2 Hots. That is you never want to have the Hot switched and live before the netural is in circuit. So if your Electrician is going to "fab" up some solution with his "standard" install, he needs to implement Neutral first switching.

The actual full switching progression should be original HOTs opened (i.e. no load, no powered lines), then original Neutral open, then new Neutral closed, then new Hots closed. If you purchase a switched netural transfer box, it will implement this correctly.
 

Gros Ventre

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Another alternative (See my post on Green screw) is to remove the neutral-ground bonding screw in the breaker panel. In the case of my utility they require that bond to be done out in the meter box and told me to remove the green screw. So long as you used a four wire cable and plugs, along with an interlock plate, removing the "Green Screw" solves the neutral ground bonding issue as there will only be the bond out in your truck.
 

powerboatr

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has anyone used a transfer switch set up like we have in rvs? it can switch a 50 amp load on each leg and does the neutral first as well as times out so items dont get surged

a total of 100 amps is what i have , and i know they make higher capacity ones.

thanks...just curious
 
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SouthernGuy

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I had my first REAL test of the PowerBoost/Transfer Switch install this afternoon. A power outage (probably storm related) happened late afternoon. I waited about 5 minutes just in case it was a brief outage, then decided to put everything into action.

Pulled out the 40' cord from the utility room, plugged the female end into the Power Inlet box, plugged the male end into the outlet in the truck bed, started the truck, turned on generator mode and came in to flip the rocker switch of the transfer switch to Generator power.

Lights, satellite TV, computer, ceiling fan ... all of my normal operating systems came to life!
Power draw was only 280 watts!

Total time to put everything into action --- 4 minutes.

After a 1 and 1/2 hr outage, I flipped the transfer switch back to Utility power and put things back to normal.

I could NOT be happier about the PowerBoost truck and the transfer switch install!
 

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Kodiak

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I had my first REAL test of the PowerBoost/Transfer Switch install this afternoon. A power outage (probably storm related) happened late afternoon. I waited about 5 minutes just in case it was a brief outage, then decided to put everything into action.

Pulled out the 40' cord from the utility room, plugged the female end into the Power Inlet box, plugged the male end into the outlet in the truck bed, started the truck, turned on generator mode and came in to flip the rocker switch of the transfer switch to Generator power.

Lights, satellite TV, computer, ceiling fan ... all of my normal operating systems came to life!
Power draw was only 280 watts!

Total time to put everything into action --- 4 minutes.

After a 1 and 1/2 hr outage, I flipped the transfer switch back to Utility power and put things back to normal.

I could NOT be happier about the PowerBoost truck and the transfer switch install!
This is a beautiful thing. I have had 2 incidents in the 20 years that I have lived here in VA where the power was out for days. One was 11 days and the other was 7 days. Countless incidents of 6 to 12 hours. My business is from my home so without power, I am out of business.

After that second long time I had the transfer switch installed for a 7000 watt generator I bought to keep me in business if it happens again. I have yet to need it but I am now just waiting for a weekend to give my PB a try and make sure the transfer switch is wired for a bonded neutral generator. If not I will call the electrician back.

With the PB even if the power goes out for a couple of hours, which happens often, I will be able to easily hook up the PB and keep my business running along without issue.
 
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Hullguy

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My electrician wants to use the standard transfer switches he uses on all jobs (not Generac 6852 or x-series). He claims he can separate the neutral and ground in the transfer circuit.

Is this possible? Or am I wasting my time? (is there a way he can add separate bars as add-ons?)

I'm beginning to really hate Ford again.
I am a Master Electrician within 40 years of experience and he is full of shit! It is not safe to do this!!!
 

JoeRedFly

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I just use a modified extension cord to backfeed the dryer plug. Left both neutral bonds in place, just pulled the ground from the connecting cord on mine to prevent ground loop fault on the truck. That way everything maintains earth ground potential through the normal house wiring including the truck body which is bonded to the neutral and connected to house neutral through the cable.

Down side is, order of operation is very important to prevent damage to truck or human. Handling a live generator backfeed cable can kill you if you turn it on before connecting it. For those not super comfy with electrical the transfer box is the way to go.
 

Hullguy

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I just use a modified extension cord to backfeed the dryer plug. Left both neutral bonds in place, just pulled the ground from the connecting cord on mine to prevent ground loop fault on the truck. That way everything maintains earth ground potential through the normal house wiring including the truck body which is bonded to the neutral and connected to house neutral through the cable.

Down side is, order of operation is very important to prevent damage to truck or human. Handling a live generator backfeed cable can kill you if you turn it on before connecting it. For those not super comfy with electrical the transfer box is the way to go.
And you eliminate your whole grounding system. It’s wrong
 
 




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