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The Journey to 300K

Severdog

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I just hit 15k on my 22 XLT PB. I think this is the One. I think I'll keep it a long time. I usually get bored with vehicles and change them with the weather but occasionally I'll get a good one that I keep for a long time. Did that with my 99 Accord V6 and 07 Odyssey. This 150 is a keeper.

I think 300k is a reasonable goal. I live in salt-free SC with moderate temps.

Apart from the "Captain Obvious" maintenance items, how would you go about squeezing 300k out of this truck?
Ford F-150 The Journey to 300K 20230314_151703 (1)
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KingDavid

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I got the j&l oil separator to hopefully help with longevity of the engine. Tailgate assist to not bang down the tailgate. Nano ceramic tint to protect the interior parts from the South Florida heat and sun.

I'd love any other advice. Other than not getting a Whipple in the winter/spring of course. 😂
 

Davexxxx

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I just hit 15k on my 22 XLT PB. I think this is the One. I think I'll keep it a long time. I usually get bored with vehicles and change them with the weather but occasionally I'll get a good one that I keep for a long time. Did that with my 99 Accord V6 and 07 Odyssey. This 150 is a keeper.

I think 300k is a reasonable goal. I live in salt-free SC with moderate temps.

Apart from the "Captain Obvious" maintenance items, how would you go about squeezing 300k out of this truck?
20230314_151703 (1).jpg
I've rolled 2 F150s, past 300K. Both used extensively in at least some dusty conditions. Past the halfway point on the third.

Change oil and filters. 3K - 5K. At least check and take an air hose to the air filter, each oil change. Check the PVC and any other filters by the book. Trans and differentials by the book.

Used Castrol at heavier than spec and WIX filters, from day one. I worked around hvy. equipment and that is all the field mechanics would use. There used to be a cutaway of WIX filters vs competitors. You could see the difference.

Coolant flushes by the book and don't let em get hot.

But those were old style engines and Captain Obvious stuff.

On the PB, I'll probably play it by the book, including oil weight and using Motorcraft filters. At least until I'm convinced of something better, that is safe.

I'm open to thinking about a catch can and upgrading the intercooler but I've seen reasonable arguments against them so ...
 

JExpedition07

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Axle gear lube every 50k, transmission fluid every 50k, coolant every 100k. It’s the lubricants everyone forgets about that give you the most hard parts failures. Mercon ULV is SMOKED by 60k, change that stuff before warranty end. The book is flat out wrong these trans run hot. The stuff comes out black. I will have every fluid swapped on mine before warranty end.
 

Snakebitten

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I think it's still early for this 3rd version of the 3.5 Ecoboost.

Although there are lots of Gen1's in the 180,000-225,000, according to auction sites, it's not a 300k motor commonly.

The Gen2 version (2017-2020) doesn't have a legitimate sample yet, I don't think, but the escalating co$t of the phaser job will probably hurt the percentage of trucks that might be able to reach beyond 225,000, Most folks shy away from spending $4000+ on trucks with that mileage.

If the 3rd generation turns out to be a motor that would only need ONE phaser job to get to 300k, then there's a better chance to see owners keep them going. But like I mentioned, needing that procedure 3 or more times would probably stop most owners.
 

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I've rolled 2 F150s, past 300K. Both used extensively in at least some dusty conditions. Past the halfway point on the third.

Change oil and filters. 3K - 5K. At least check and take an air hose to the air filter, each oil change. Check the PVC and any other filters by the book. Trans and differentials by the book.

Used Castrol at heavier than spec and WIX filters, from day one. I worked around hvy. equipment and that is all the field mechanics would use. There used to be a cutaway of WIX filters vs competitors. You could see the difference.

Coolant flushes by the book and don't let em get hot.

But those were old style engines and Captain Obvious stuff.

On the PB, I'll probably play it by the book, including oil weight and using Motorcraft filters. At least until I'm convinced of something better, that is safe.

I'm open to thinking about a catch can and upgrading the intercooler but I've seen reasonable arguments against them so ...
Don't mean to hi-jack a thread, but I just bought a napa in line fuel filter that the guy said was the good line made by wix. It says made in russia right on it. Thought that was pretty interesting not seeing something made in china.
 

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Put an 8µ full flow oil filter on it (Cantonracingproducts.com) then put a 1 µ bypass oil filter on it. Change out all OEM lubricants now. Only use full synthetic lubricants, I really like AmsOil. Run oil samples like with Blackstone Labs. See other discussion on this ans the bypass oil filter. I've got a 92 Suburban still going at 31 years this way.
 

JExpedition07

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Isn’t the ICE engine only running 50% of the time on the PB? Seems like everyone posts pics driving and the rpm is always at 0. That might let them last longer too.
 

UGADawg96

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Isn’t the ICE engine only running 50% of the time on the PB? Seems like everyone posts pics driving and the rpm is always at 0. That might let them last longer too.
I'm at about 10% over 18k miles. But I also have towing and other highway miles mixed in. I can get up to 25% on a commute to work if I drive like an old lady doing just about or under the speed limit. I doubt anyone is getting 50% lifetime. This isn't a PHEV.
 

Pelican

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Good for you Severdog!

I truly believe 300k is possible with regular and consistent maintenance. I've ready up on the phaser issues and the mechanics I've watched online and spoke to in person state the majority of the issues are from a lack of maintenance and exceeding the vehicle's rated towing limits.

My father drove about 110/day to work. As he grew older, he began to keep his vehicles longer and longer. He had at least 3 high mileage vehicles. One was a 1990 Ford Probe that had a 198k on it before a drunk hit it head on and totaled it. Just required regular maintenance. The other was a 1995 Ford Ranger with 300k plus on it. Not sure of exact mileage when it was laid to rest, but the odometer quite work sometime after 300k. After doing a 180 spinout with an improperly, overloaded trailer and being hit by two other vehicles going 55mph it came a stop. After the accident ordeal was dealt with, it started right up and was driven back home with the trailer attached. Both were purchased brand new and maintenancewas done regularly and consistently.

Fast forward, I bought a used 2002 Ford Ranger 4.0L expecting to get the same high mileage with regular maintenance, but that was not the case. That truck was plagued with issues from day one. What I thought was a soon to go bad tensioner belt pulley bearing turned out to be an overworked engine with a loose/sloppy timing chain due to being overloaded by the previous owner. Before I sold it, the transmission went out. I had it rebuilt, but unbeknownst to me before the rebuild the timing chain guides and tensioner were shot. About a year after the transmission was rebuilt, part of the guide broke off and it sounded like click clack, click clack when running unless you put a lot of tension on it. Neadless to say, I upgraded from that being my daily driver to my current F-150, which gets fresh oil every 3k to 3.5k and a fresh air filter every third oil change.

Again, I truly believe these engines are better than the old ones, they just require more maintenance as they're smaller engines hauling heavier loads. Let's raise our glasses to the 300k club wannabes!
 
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Samson16

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I think it's still early for this 3rd version of the 3.5 Ecoboost.

Although there are lots of Gen1's in the 180,000-225,000, according to auction sites, it's not a 300k motor commonly.

The Gen2 version (2017-2020) doesn't have a legitimate sample yet, I don't think, but the escalating co$t of the phaser job will probably hurt the percentage of trucks that might be able to reach beyond 225,000, Most folks shy away from spending $4000+ on trucks with that mileage.

If the 3rd generation turns out to be a motor that would only need ONE phaser job to get to 300k, then there's a better chance to see owners keep them going. But like I mentioned, needing that procedure 3 or more times would probably stop most owners.
Through 3 generations they haven't found a way to make them last longer? Better oil capillaries or harder metal? I suppose a "valve job" has gotten more and more complicated over the years...
 

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Through 3 generations they haven't found a way to make them last longer? Better oil capillaries or harder metal? I suppose a "valve job" has gotten more and more complicated over the years...
Although it's early still, there's hardly a peep about the phasers on this 3rd Gen Ecoboost. Fingers crossed that Ford has a phaser that can reliably have all 4 of them last a long time in a well maintained motor! We'll see.

As for an "overloaded truck" having any affect whatsoever on a timing chain or cam phaser? 🤔🤔🤔

The burden of towing doesn't increase or decrease the amount of effort required to turn the cams. 😁
And besides, F150's that have never towed a mile in their life have had phaser issues. I love my Ford trucks and I'm not a Blue Oval hater at all, but it's an obvious design flaw. And if you compare the current phaser to the 3 previous ones used in the 3.5 Ecoboost, Ford certainly felt they needed a new design. It's a different critter altogether.
 

gadourym

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I think almost anything will last as long as it is maintained. I had a 96 Ranger that went 385,000, a 97 ranger that had the transmission go at 360,000 with the engine still going strong. I live in New England, so the body usually fails before the powertrain. In addition to my 21 F-150, I drive an 07 Ranger with the 4.0 V6 to work almost daily. That only has 250,000 so it's still a baby!
 

amschind

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I agree with all of the above. I had front and rear diff covers replaced with drain valve covers. I will replace the transmission pan with an aluminum PML pan once the exhaust is done. I'm trying to exercise the transfer case often enough. I had the transmission fluid replaced at 25k miles, with the aim of getting the wear in debris out.

This is one of the rare cases where I disagree with Snakebitten. I think that regular oil changes will keep can phaser replacement to a minimum, and that for folks performing religious maintenance, transmission failure will be the life limiting factor. To that end, I'm doing all that I can to keep heat off the transmission and make transmission fluid easy to replace. I'm probably going to wrap the exhaust near the transmission and install the turbo blankets that I've had for a year after I replace the exhaust. That process depends upon the Megaohm spud connector for the exhaust heat exchanger, and deleting that piece is another strategy for making the engine last: it seems like that' exchanger leaking the main risk for a random overheat.

I'm also putting mostly highway miles on thus far, at 36k in about 18 months.
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